Horsefield, what Terrain is best?

[Kirsty123]

Hi all I have a horsefield tortoise in an open top table and really need some help with what terrain I need for him. I have been told many different things and just want to get it right. I have heard bark chips are good. There are coarse ones and fine ones, but then I've heard they can puncture the gut if accidentally eaten. Please help! I need something I can add water to to raise my humidity levels if possible. I am from the UK and any links of what to buy say on Amazon etc would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

 

[Hamiltondood]

PLEASE follow this caresheet https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/the-best-way-to-raise-any-temperate-species-of-tortoise.183131/
adult russian tortoises need a minimum of 8x4 feet. fine orchid bark should be okay, cypress mulch should be fine too. a 65 watt incandescent flood bulb is great for a basking spot. avoid clamps as they'll fall. a terracotta saucer is great to use as a water bowl. open top tortoise tables will NEVER provide the humidity tortoises need. a closed enclosure is the best option. bring him outside for a few hours outside a week and you should be good, you wouldnt need a UVB bulb if you do this.

 

[Minority2]

Hi all I have a horsefield tortoise in an open top table and really need some help with what terrain I need for him. I have been told many different things and just want to get it right. I have heard bark chips are good. There are coarse ones and fine ones, but then I've heard they can puncture the gut if accidentally eaten. Please help! I need something I can add water to to raise my humidity levels if possible. I am from the UK and any links of what to buy say on Amazon etc would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

To make this simple there's really only two very good substrate choices (I do not count cypress mulch as a choice simply because the other two are overall better choices) for indoor captive tortoises. Coco coir and Orchid/Fir Bark. Small tortoises like Horsefield/Russians do well with either just coco coir or a mix of coco coir and orchid/fir bark. Both substrate material are great at keeping humidity.

Bulk coco coir can be found at pretty affordable prices on amazon while bulk fine-grade orchid bark can only be found in brick and mortar shops that specialize in gardening.

Coco coir for example:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CH7VZ6D/?tag=

Russian tortoises need a generous thick layer of substrate in order to burrow in. 4-6+ inches is generally recommended. The deeper the layer, the more water the bottom layer can hold.

 

[Kirsty123]

To make this simple there's really only two very good substrate choices (I do not count cypress mulch as a choice simply because the other two are overall better choices) for indoor captive tortoises. Coco coir and Orchid/Fir Bark. Small tortoises like Horsefield/Russians do well with either just coco coir or a mix of coco coir and orchid/fir bark. Both substrate material are great at keeping humidity.

Bulk coco coir can be found at pretty affordable prices on amazon while bulk fine-grade orchid bark can only be found in brick and mortar shops that specialize in gardening.

Coco coir for example:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CH7VZ6D/?tag=

Russian tortoises need a generous thick layer of substrate in order to burrow in. 4-6+ inches is generally recommended. The deeper the layer, the more water the bottom layer can hold.

Thank you so much. Just want I needed. dont suppose you could help me with another question? It's more for the future. my tortoise is about 9 months out in an open top table when would I need a bigger enclosure for him? Thanks in advance

 

[Minority2]

Thank you so much. Just want I needed. dont suppose you could help me with another question? It's more for the future. my tortoise is about 9 months out in an open top table when would I need a bigger enclosure for him? Thanks in advance

I don't know what size your current table is but I personally think a hatchling should never be housed in anything smaller than a 4 ft x 2 ft enclosure unless it's being quarantined or is sick in which case housing that particular tortoise in a slightly smaller temporary enclosure such as a large cement mixing tub would make more sense.

The 2 year is about what I would suggest for a Russian tortoise to move into a larger, more permanent enclosure. Once they're around 4.5-5+ inches or so they should really start getting into either a full-time outdoor enclosure with chicken wire that's protected from predators or an 8 ft x 4 ft indoor enclosure that's also protected from curious indoor pets.

I also suggest covering your current table with a top in order to keep humidity in. It can be made of anything from plexiglass, lexan, aluminum foil, foam, cardboard, waterproof tarp, or even a mini greenhouse cover. Steady, long term 90-100% humidity levels is just not realistically achievable in an open enclosure.

 

[Kirsty123]

I don't know what size your current table is but I personally think a hatchling should never be housed in anything smaller than a 4 ft x 2 ft enclosure unless it's being quarantined or is sick in which case housing that particular tortoise in a slightly smaller temporary enclosure such as a large cement mixing tub would make more sense.

The 2 year is about what I would suggest for a Russian tortoise to move into a larger, more permanent enclosure. Once they're around 4.5-5+ inches or so they should really start getting into either a full-time outdoor enclosure with chicken wire that's protected from predators or an 8 ft x 4 ft indoor enclosure that's also protected from curious indoor pets.

I also suggest covering your current table with a top in order to keep humidity in. It can be made of anything from plexiglass, lexan, aluminum foil, foam, cardboard, waterproof tarp, or even a mini greenhouse cover. Steady, long term 90-100% humidity levels is just not realistically achievable in an open enclosure.

Thank you really appreciate your help on this. I have a large rectangular table top with a heat lamp hanging down. With regards to covering the top shall I cover the cooler end and leave the end where the lamp is open? Or cut a whole for where the lamp is?

 

[Minority2]

Thank you really appreciate your help on this. I have a large rectangular table top with a heat lamp hanging down. With regards to covering the top shall I cover the cooler end and leave the end where the lamp is open? Or cut a whole for where the lamp is?

Take a picture of your entire enclosure and upload it to the site if you don't mind. That way members can help spot out unsafe items and things that may need replacing.

Cut a hole where the lamp fixture(s) and cover the rest.

Are you only using a single lamp? Does that mean you're using a mercury vapor bulb? Because if so, I would suggest replacing that for an incandescent flood bulb. For the UK, you'll probably have to settle with reptile branded basking bulbs that only produces uv(A).
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018QY7H2A/?tag=

The reason I say to replace a mercury vapor bulb is because they're not reliable.
1. They can lose the ability to produce uv(B) in a matter of months.
2. They project a heat that is more concentrated when compared to incandescent flood bulbs which dry out tortoise carapace at a much faster rate.
3. They're overly expensive but inefficient.

You'll likely require another lighting fixture for uv(B) if you do not take your tortoise outside a few times per week for some supervised sun in a protected outdoor enclosure. T5 lighting fixtures are the only safer option I would recommend these days.

For example a Arcadia Pro T5 2ft kit that comes with a 12% bulb:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B084ZMW697/?tag=

Those two lighting fixtures working together are what most members would commonly recommend for an indoor Russian tortoise.

 

[Kirsty123]

Take a picture of your entire enclosure and upload it to the site if you don't mind. That way members can help spot out unsafe items and things that may need replacing.

Cut a hole where the lamp fixture(s) and cover the rest.

Are you only using a single lamp? Does that mean you're using a mercury vapor bulb? Because if so, I would suggest replacing that for an incandescent flood bulb. For the UK, you'll probably have to settle with reptile branded basking bulbs that only produces uv(A).
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018QY7H2A/?tag=

The reason I say to replace a mercury vapor bulb is because they're not reliable.
1. They can lose the ability to produce uv(B) in a matter of months.
2. They project a heat that is more concentrated when compared to incandescent flood bulbs which dry out tortoise carapace at a much faster rate.
3. They're overly expensive but inefficient.

You'll likely require another lighting fixture for uv(B) if you do not take your tortoise outside a few times per week for some supervised sun in a protected outdoor enclosure. T5 lighting fixtures are the only safer option I would recommend these days.

For example a Arcadia Pro T5 2ft kit that comes with a 12% bulb:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B084ZMW697/?tag=

Those two lighting fixtures working together are what most members would commonly recommend for an indoor Russian tortoise.

 

[Minority2]

I prefer having my florescent reptile uv(B) bulbs raised high above and facing downwards similar to the basking bulb because there's less of a chance for the bulb to shine directly right into the tortoise's eye.

The soil I assume you're already going to get rid of so I'm not going to bother talking about that.

Not much to say. The items in the picture look fine to me besides what I already covered. I'm not a fan of those low-walled tortoise tables but it's still usable for the time being. Read the care sheet provided by @Hamiltondood and you should be fine if your day time and night time temperature levels, humidity level, and diet options are on point.

 

[Kirsty123]

I prefer having my florescent reptile uv(B) bulbs raised high above and facing downwards similar to the basking bulb because there's less of a chance for the bulb to shine directly right into the tortoise's eye.

The soil I assume you're already going to get rid of so I'm not going to bother talking about that.

Not much to say. The items in the picture look fine to me besides what I already covered. I'm not a fan of those low-walled tortoise tables but it's still usable for the time being. Read the care sheet provided by @Hamiltondood and you should be fine if your day time and night time temperature levels, humidity level, and diet options are on point.

Thanks for coming back on this. I will try and move the UV up.

Yes I've ordered some new substrate now so will get that sorted next.

As my tort grows I will find a larger home, do you have any recommendations on where to buy them?

Thank you will check out the care sheet.

 

[Minority2]

Thanks for coming back on this. I will try and move the UV up.

Yes I've ordered some new substrate now so will get that sorted next.

As my tort grows I will find a larger home, do you have any recommendations on where to buy them?

Thank you will check out the care sheet.

Speaking strictly for indoor enclosures:
1. The cheapest way is to build or have one built one yourself. You can control the quality and materials used so you make it as a nice looking as you wish for a fraction of what it would cost for a pre-made + shipped enclosure of the same size.
2. The best indoor enclosures are made by either Animal Plastics https://apcages.com/ or @Markw84 from this forum. The enclosures nor shipping will be cheap but the quality speaks for itself. Animal plastics can take months before shipping. Message @Markw84 for more details as he has not had time to get his website retail ready yet.
3. Grow tents are another option. You'll need a waterproof tarp for the bottom and keep it away from the windows because people may mistake it growing weed and try to steal the equipment inside of it. Overall it's not a bad enclosure for small tortoise breeds. Example below:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08BRZ18V6/?tag=

 

[Kirsty123]

That's really helpful thank you for everything this morning.