There are four elements to heating and lighting.:I have read that info sheet thank you and I will be making changes. I have ordered a humidity tester and will take out the soil/substrate. I think I am feeding him correctly, it is mainly the light/heat I need to sort out (and quickly).
How can I tell if I am getting the right bulb? This doesn't say MVP on it anywhere.
- Basking bulb. I use low wattage flood bulbs from the hardware store. Usually 65 watts will do it, but let your thermometer guide you. Raise or lower the fixture to get the correct basking temp under it. Set it on a timer for 12-13 hours a day. Adjust the times in fall and spring if you hibernate your tortoise. Don't if you don't. No spot bulbs, halogen bulbs, colored bulbs, and no MVBs.
- Ambient light. This one is not always needed. If the room is very brightly lit, you can skip this one. I use LEDs and set them on timers for additional light when needed.
- Ambient heat. If the room temperature is warm enough, you can skip this one. I find that most people in the UK let their houses get colder than most people here in the US. If your house stays above 65-70F at night, you don't need ambient heat over a temperate species. If your house is dropping down to 50 on a winter night, then you do need some night heat for a baby Testudo. You can use a ceramic heating element or a radiant heat panel set on a thermostat to control the ambient temp. Place the thermostat's probe as far from the heating and lighting elements as possible. In an open topped enclosure, this one can be difficult. In a closed chamber set up, this is easy.
- UV. If climate allows it, I prefer to let baby tortoises get UV directly from the sun in outdoor sunning enclosures. Your climate doesn't allow this for most of the year. Get an Arcadia 12% HO tube in a reflector hood. Length of the tube doesn't matter. Mount it about 18-20 inches over the enclosure, and set it on a timer from 11am to 2 or 3 pm. Best to use a "Solarmeter 6.5" to check UV levels and set the mounting height.