Hibernation Worry

IzzyWhizzy

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Hi all,

I have a Herman’s Tortoise which is two years old. I am not hibernating him but over the last week he is refusing to eat anything. All they want to do is sleep. I have tried to give them a variety of food and make sure it is warm enough. I also gave them a soak and tried to feed them but nothing. They have also lost weight. Should I be worried? Is there anything I can do?
 

JoesMum

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At this time of year it is normal for activity to reduce as tortoises detect the shortening of the datylight hours and prepare themselves for the cold .... evn though the cold won’t actually come indoors.

Your tortoise (do you have two?) is losing weight that is worrying because this lack of activity isn’t hibernation and your tortoise is still burning energy and dehydrating but not eating and drinking to compensate.

You need to take charge here.

1. Check the temperatures.
Your tortoise must be able to bask at 35-37C/95-100F at tortoise level directly under a basking lamp that is hanging vertically.

Your tortoise mustn’t get too cold at night. If temperatures drop below 18C/65F then your tort will take too long to warm up in the morning to get active. A ceramic heat emitter and thermostat may be required. Don’t use a red bulb for night heat; they’re not suitable for tortoises.

Respiratory infection is usually caused by the combination of cold and damp. Tortoises need warmth and humidity to be healthy. This is another reason that temperatures mustn’t be allowed to drop too far.


2. You are trying to recreate Summer
Temperature isn’t enough. The lights must be on and bright for 12-14 hours. Use a timer so they come on and go off at the same time each day. You may need additional LED lighting at this time of year to make the enclosure brighter without affecting temperature.

3. Preventing dehydration and weight loss
In periods of inactivity (except for proper hibernation) it is essential to soak your tortoise daily for at least 30 minutes in warm water. Get the temperature right and your tort will wallow and enjoy the warmth.

Link this to the natural activity cycle of your tortoise. Haul him out first thing every morning and pop him in a large flat bottomed bowl with high sides; a washing up bowl is ideal. The water should be deep enough to just come over the join between the shell and the plastron (undershell)

Feed greens wet and offer them immediately after the soak. Hopefully your tort will take some early on in the day.

Your tortoise may well do little else for the rest of the day, but starting the day with a soak will help prevent problems.

Photos of your enclosure and lighting will help us to offer more specific advice concerning your tortoise
 
Last edited:

IzzyWhizzy

New Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2020
Messages
8
Location (City and/or State)
Harlow
At this time of year it is normal for activity to reduce as tortoises detect the shortening of the datylight hours and prepare themselves for the cold .... evn though the cold won’t actually come indoors.

Your tortoise (do you have two?) is losing weight that is worrying because this lack of activity isn’t hibernation and your tortoise is still burning energy and dehydrating but not eating and drinking to compensate.

You need to take charge here.

1. Check the temperatures.
Your tortoise must be able to bask at 35-37C/95-100F at tortoise level directly under a basking lamp that is hanging vertically.

Your tortoise mustn’t get too cold at night. If temperatures drop below 18C/65F then your tort will take too long to warm up in the morning to get active. A ceramic heat emitter and thermostat may be required. Don’t use a red bulb for night heat; they’re not suitable for tortoises.

Respiratory infection is usually caused by the combination of cold and damp. Tortoises need warmth and humidity to be healthy. This is another reason that temperatures mustn’t be allowed to drop too far.


2. You are trying to recreate Summer
Temperature isn’t enough. The lights must be on and bright for 12-14 hours. Use a timer so they come on and go off at the same time each day. You may need additional LED lighting at this time of year to make the enclosure brighter without affecting temperature.

3. Preventing dehydration and weight loss
In periods of inactivity (except for proper hibernation) it is essential to soak your tortoise daily for at least 30 minutes in warm water. Get the temperature right and your tort will wallow and enjoy the warmth.

Link this to the natural activity cycle of your tortoise. Haul him out first thing every morning and pop him in a large flat bottomed bowl with high sides; a washing up bowl is ideal. The water should be deep enough to just come over the join between the shell and the plastron (undershell)

Feed greens wet and offer them immediately after the soak. Hopefully your tort will take some early on in the day.

Your tortoise may well do little else for the rest of the day, but starting the day with a soak will help prevent problems.

Photos of your enclosure and lighting will help us to offer more specific advice concerning your tortoise
Thank you for all your help! I am going to give them a soak tomorrow and I have a timer plug so I will set that up too. I am attaching a picture of his enclosure.
F4C1DF53-7933-43B4-A58B-7D099F774442.jpeg All help appreciated as I just want to give them the best enclosure possible. He also has a heat mat in the shade part/box that is set so if it gets too cold it comes on. I say they as I don’t know what sex it is yet ? also just one tortoise
 

Tom

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Thank you for all your help! I am going to give them a soak tomorrow and I have a timer plug so I will set that up too. I am attaching a picture of his enclosure.
View attachment 314015 All help appreciated as I just want to give them the best enclosure possible. He also has a heat mat in the shade part/box that is set so if it gets too cold it comes on. I say they as I don’t know what sex it is yet ? also just one tortoise
You need more light.

You also need to get rid of both of those substrates. Both are unsuitable and unsafe.

Give this a read:
 

Markw84

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Light is just as big a hibernation (brumation) trigger, if not more so, than temperature. Especially the "color" of light and the amount of UV in the light. To really help a temperate species want to stay awake and not trigger brumation, you not only need to keep temperatures up, but also keep the photoperiod up to at least 14 hours and the lighting a higer intensity and a good full spectrum which includes some UV. Add some LED lights in the 6000k range with a CRI of 90+. Most good LEDs are rated that way now so you should see that noted on their packaging. Add a lower level UV light as well. Don't need the higher intensity UVB as the lower 5% UVB lights still emit plenty of UVA and the UVB will be moderated. Tortoises can see light in the UVA ranges that is invisible to humans. UVA light is a key trigger to circannual rhythms.
 

IzzyWhizzy

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Messages
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Harlow
Thank you for all your help! I am going to give them a soak tomorrow and I have a timer plug so I will set that up too. I am attaching a picture of his enclosure.
View attachment 314015 All help appreciated as I just want to give them the best enclosure possible. He also has a heat mat in the shade part/box that is set so if it gets too cold it comes on. I say they as I don’t know what sex it is yet ?
You need more light.

You also need to get rid of both of those substrates. Both are unsuitable and unsafe.

Give this a read:
Thank you, what substrate do you recommend?
 

IzzyWhizzy

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Joined
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Messages
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Location (City and/or State)
Harlow
H
Light is just as big a hibernation (brumation) trigger, if not more so, than temperature. Especially the "color" of light and the amount of UV in the light. To really help a temperate species want to stay awake and not trigger brumation, you not only need to keep temperatures up, but also keep the photoperiod up to at least 14 hours and the lighting a higer intensity and a good full spectrum which includes some UV. Add some LED lights in the 6000k range with a CRI of 90+. Most good LEDs are rated that way now so you should see that noted on their packaging. Add a lower level UV light as well. Don't need the higher intensity UVB as the lower 5% UVB lights still emit plenty of UVA and the UVB will be moderated. Tortoises can see light in the UVA ranges that is invisible to humans. UVA light is a key trigger to circannual rhythms.
Thank you I will invest in an LED and do I add the lower UV light in addition to the light he already has?
 

JoesMum

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Thank you, what substrate do you recommend?
You need an earthy type that you can mix with water until all of it is evenly damp which will help raise humidity. Fine grade orchid bark or coco coir are both good and you can get them most cheaply from a hardware store or garden centre
 

IzzyWhizzy

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You need an earthy type that you can mix with water until all of it is evenly damp which will help raise humidity. Fine grade orchid bark or coco coir are both good and you can get them most cheaply from a hardware store or garden centre
Okay thank you have ordered both and will try those out
 

Tom

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Thank you, what substrate do you recommend?
Did the link not work? Sometimes it doesn't come through when people use the forum on a phone. I can send it again:
 

IzzyWhizzy

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Messages
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Harlow
Did the link not work? Sometimes it doesn't come through when people use the forum on a phone. I can send it again:
Thank you!
 

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