hermann tortoise hatchlings

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Stephenblock

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Had a question about fragility of hermanns tortoise. I was told by a reptile store owner that he won't sell hermanns because they will only die as young hatchlings. I just purchased one and don't want this to happen Is their anything that I need to be careful about? I have a redfootthat is now comfortable enough to eat collard greens out of my hand. Are red foots any more hardy then hermanns? I have my hermanns upstairs in a two by five foot sterilite with repti bark and a heat light. I am waiting for my new replacement reptisun uvb/ heat bulb to come back next week. Didn't know if I should change anything about the settup upstairs. it is about 85 under the heat lamp at all times. The tort can escape to the seventies though if he needs it cooler
 

Eweezyfosheezy

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That has to be one of the most preposterous things I've ever heard. Most reptile shop owners dont know anything about tortoises. Hermanns are easily in the top 5 of hardiest hatchlings in my experience. Where did you get your hatchling from? Are you able to get him/her outside at all? I would try to get that basking temp to about 90-95 if you can. Any pics of your setup and tortoise?
 

Tom

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The store owner is right. They do all die. IF you don't set them up and care for them properly. Just like any other tortoise, or any other animal period.

I would rather someone with hermanni hatchling experience address your temps, but it sounds like you are leaving the light on all the time. This is not good for any tortoise. They need it dark at night. If you feel you need night heat then a ceramic heating element on a thermostat is a good way to go.
 

CourtneyAndCarl

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I have currently had my Hermann's hatchling for about 3 months and I wouldn't say he is particularly sensitive. Obviously, all torts, especially baby ones, do require a lot more maintenance than most people realize (I work at a Petco and I can't tell you how many times I've heard "It's practically a breathing rock, how can it be hard to take care of?").

The temp. directly underneath the basking light should be more like 95 during the day for about 11 hours. To keep the warm side in the high 70s, low 80s at night, I have two heat mats stuck to the sides of the warmer half of the aquarium. A lot of people use CHEs or night time light bulbs, too. The ambient temp. on the warm side should be between 80 and 85, and the cool side can be in the mid 70s during theday. If you are just using the regular "stick on the side" thermometers, I would suggest getting an infared thermometer. It makes life so much easier since there are three or four temps you need to know at all times and it's hard to stick a thermometer in some of these places.

And of course, the best possible thing for any tortoise of any species or age is as much outside time as you can possibly allow. I can tell you from personal experience that it makes a HUGE difference. You will hear people say that a lot and probably think "well how much different can a little tortoise act?", I know I did...but then I started keeping Carl outside for 6+ hours a day and he gains weight much faster, and has SO much more energy.
 

Stephenblock

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I can't seem to be able to load pics from my computer. My steeup is a steriliete 2 foot by five foot conainer with forrest floor and a light attachment over it with a fifty watt bulb. I am going to check the temps now. 94 degrees in the basking spot. 80's every where else. The reptile shop also told me that I didn't need a uvb bulb.
Eweezyfosheezy said:
That has to be one of the most preposterous things I've ever heard. Most reptile shop owners dont know anything about tortoises. Hermanns are easily in the top 5 of hardiest hatchlings in my experience. Where did you get your hatchling from? Are you able to get him/her outside at all? I would try to get that basking temp to about 90-95 if you can. Any pics of your setup and tortoise?
 

Stephenblock

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I can't seem to be able to load pics from my computer. My steeup is a steriliete 2 foot by five foot conainer with forrest floor and a light attachment over it with a fifty watt bulb. I am going to check the temps now. 94 degrees in the basking spot. 80's every where else. The reptile shop also told me that I didn't need a uvb bulb.
Eweezyfosheezy said:
That has to be one of the most preposterous things I've ever heard. Most reptile shop owners dont know anything about tortoises. Hermanns are easily in the top 5 of hardiest hatchlings in my experience. Where did you get your hatchling from? Are you able to get him/her outside at all? I would try to get that basking temp to about 90-95 if you can. Any pics of your setup and tortoise?
 

Stephenblock

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I can't seem to be able to load pics from my computer. My steeup is a steriliete 2 foot by five foot conainer with forrest floor and a light attachment over it with a fifty watt bulb. I am going to check the temps now. 94 degrees in the basking spot. 80's every where else. The reptile shop also told me that I didn't need a uvb bulb.
Eweezyfosheezy said:
That has to be one of the most preposterous things I've ever heard. Most reptile shop owners dont know anything about tortoises. Hermanns are easily in the top 5 of hardiest hatchlings in my experience. Where did you get your hatchling from? Are you able to get him/her outside at all? I would try to get that basking temp to about 90-95 if you can. Any pics of your setup and tortoise?
 

Stephenblock

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I can't seem to be able to load pics from my computer. My steeup is a steriliete 2 foot by five foot conainer with forrest floor and a light attachment over it with a fifty watt bulb. I am going to check the temps now. 94 degrees in the basking spot. 80's every where else. The reptile shop also told me that I didn't need a uvb bulb.
Eweezyfosheezy said:
That has to be one of the most preposterous things I've ever heard. Most reptile shop owners dont know anything about tortoises. Hermanns are easily in the top 5 of hardiest hatchlings in my experience. Where did you get your hatchling from? Are you able to get him/her outside at all? I would try to get that basking temp to about 90-95 if you can. Any pics of your setup and tortoise?
 

mctlong

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Stephenblock said:
I was told by a reptile store owner that he won't sell hermanns because they will only die as young hatchlings.
I wouldn't buy any animals from that shopkeeper.
 

Stephenblock

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He told me to stay off the internet as well. Wanted to see if I could use a heat pad instead of a ceramic heating elemewnt for some bottom wamth for my tortoise. I have the refoot settup with a ceramic hating element and a a seperate uvb on a timer.
 

Tom

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Does this shop keeper belong to any sort of religious cult? Stay off the internet? Heaven forbid you learn something that he obviously does not know. Wow.

There are many ways to accomplish heating and lighting your tortoise. You might have to experiment a bit and find what works best for you and your tortoise.

If your tortoise gets regular sunshine you do not need artificial indoor UV.
 

Eweezyfosheezy

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What kind of pet shop owner is this? Let me guess what he feeds them. Pizza? Ice cream? What state or country are you located in?
 

Rover15

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Eweezyfosheezy said:
What kind of pet shop owner is this? Let me guess what he feeds them. Pizza? Ice cream? What state or country are you located in?
Wait so we can't feed our tortoises the ninja turtle diet?
 

GBtortoises

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If this store owner is telling you that baby Hermann's all die maybe his husbandry methods should be questioned. I have been keeping and breeding Hermann's tortoises, along with other Testudo species and many others from other areas of the world for just about 30 years now. I can absolutely assure you that all of the Hermann's subspecies are some of the hardiest and most rewarding to keep in captivity. The babies, when kept correctly are very active and hardy. I can almost guess that if this reptile dealer is having such a problem keeping Hermann's babies alive that he is keeping them much too hot and too dry. This is a common mistake that is made by people.
 
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