Heat during the cooler seasons

Tanner Fry

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I have one heat lamp and one uvB lamp but I have trouble maintaining 80ish degrees should I invest in another lamp that runs at night or have another that runs in the day and none at night?
 

Yvonne G

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Think about allowing your Russian to hibernate. It's much easier for winter. Also, Russians don't need to be that warm. Fix it so you have about 100F under the light, then the rest of the enclosure is fine between 70 and 80. A nice drop of 10 degrees or so at night is ok.
 

JoesMum

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Hello and welcome

Photos of the enclosure and lighting will help us to help you. We

A Ceramic Heat Emitter with a thermostat can be used to boost the ambient temperature day and night and the thermostat ensures it only cuts in when needed.

I recommend you read the TFO care guides and compare them with your setup.

They're written by species experts working hard to correct the outdated information widely available on the internet and from pet stores and, sadly, from some breeders and vets too.

Beginner Mistakes
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Baby Russian Tortoise Care (if you have a baby)
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/

Russian Tortoise Care (otherwise)
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
 

Tom

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I have one heat lamp and one uvB lamp but I have trouble maintaining 80ish degrees should I invest in another lamp that runs at night or have another that runs in the day and none at night?
80 where? You need to know four temps: Warm side, cool side, basking area and overnight low.

Tell us these and we can make a better recommendation. Or all the temps are explained in the thread that Joe's Mum linked for you.

And Yvonne's advice is spot on too.
 

JoesMum

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70 and the light is not at an angle and is low but not lie enough for it to touch

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That is too cool. Like I said you must have 95-100F directly under the basking lamp. 70 is way off.

This temperature is essential so that your tortoise can bask and raise its internal temperature high enough to digest food and be active. The lamp needs to be closer to the substrate or you need a higher wattage bulb

Photo of your enclosure and lighting will help us to help you. Have we seen any?
 

Tom

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70 and the light is not at an angle and is low but not lie enough for it to touch

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tortoise Forum mobile app

Sounds like you need a higher wattage basking bulb. It should be about 100 degrees directly under the bulb at tortoise shell height.

70 at night is fine. No need for any night heat. Down to about 60 would be fine for an adult russian, as long as the tortoise can warm up during the day.
 

Tanner Fry

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The light is 82 at night its 70 View attachment 221205
I don't think the picture will load unless it's just me but the house is on the left and the light is not directly over it but quite near it and I have two reptile thermometers and on the warmer side it says 82 and the cool side is about in the 70s but I have not yet measured what the temp is directly underneath and when I get that I'll post it but the air temp itself is in the 80s
 

Tom

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The light is 82 at night its 70 View attachment 221205

Tanner, the pet store sold you the wrong stuff. Not your fault. They almost always do this to people.

Please read the threads Joe's mum linked for you.

You need:
  • More substrate. It should be 3-4" thick, but its much cheeper to buy it at a garden center instead of the pet store.
  • A MUCH larger enclosure. That size is adequate for starting a tiny hatchling, but wayyyyyyyy too small for an adult. 4x8' should be the minimum.
  • You've got to get rid of the ramped water bowl ASAP. Those are great for lizards and snakes, but they are a flipping/drowning hazard for tortoises. Use a terra cotta plant saucer sunk into the substrate for food and water.
  • The coil type UV bulb in that double hood is is not an effective UV source and some of those bulbs burn tortoise eyes. They shouldn't be used. Get a long florescent tube instead.
  • Those stick-on round dial type thermometers are not accurate or reliable. Get a $10 digital one at the hardware store.
 

JoesMum

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Tanner, your enclosure needs a lot of improvement otherwise your tortoise is going to get very sick.

You must read and act on these two threads

They're written by species experts working hard to correct the outdated information widely available on the internet and from pet stores and, sadly, from some breeders and vets too.

Beginner Mistakes
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Russian Tortoise Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/

The issues I see are:
1. The enclosure is way too small for anything other than the tiniest baby

2. The substrate is too dry

3. Those reptile bowls are a tipping hazard and your tort can’t get in or out easily. Replace the water bowl with a terracotta plant saucer sunk into the substrate. Replace the food dish with a piece of flat rock or slate or even a wall tile the wrong way up.


4. The basking lamp is on top of his hide. It’s not ideal having to climb to bask.

5. It MUST be 95-100F directly under the basking lamp by day for 12-14 hours.
 
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Tanner Fry

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Oct 2, 2017
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Location (City and/or State)
Michigan, United States
Tanner, your enclosure needs a lot of improvement otherwise your tortoise is going to get very sick.

You must read and act on these two threads

They're written by species experts working hard to correct the outdated information widely available on the internet and from pet stores and, sadly, from some breeders and vets too.

Beginner Mistakes
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Russian Tortoise Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/

The issues I see are:
1. The enclosure is way too small for anything other than the tiniest baby

2. The substrate is too dry

3. Those reptile bowls are a tipping hazard and your tort can’t get in or out easily. Replace the water bowl with a terracotta plant saucer sunk into the substrate. Replace the food dish with a piece of flat rock or slate or even a wall tile the wrong way up.


4. The basking lamp is on top of his hide. It’s not ideal having to climb to bask.

5. It MUST be 95-100F directly under the basking lamp by day for 12-14 hours.
It's 101 directly underneath
 

Tom

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It's 101 directly underneath

If the basking area is 101 and the rest of the tank is 80 during the day and 70 at night, your tortoise should be fine, but you still need to make all the changes we've all been talking about.
 

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