Hatchlings That Incubate Under 100 days

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onarock

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Because of recent threads and the responces to them I thought I would bring up the subject. Does anyone keep health records of leopard and sulcata hatchlings that incubated under under 100 days. I'm not talking about 99 or 98 days, but about those that hatch at 95 days or less. Ive read some stuff on another forum of health issues with these animals that incubating under 100 days. The stuff Ive read touched on the animals inability to thrive and becoming succeptable to sickness. I know in the past I have had reservations when selling animals that hatched before 100 days. I would have those same reservations when purchasing these animals as well.
 

Neal

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I had not heard anything like this. One I hatched died recently, I had issues with this entire clutch...I can't remember if it hatched under 100 days. I just tried looking up my records and they are gone. Everything I had on all my tortoises for the past two years, even pictures is gone. Now I'm mad.
 

Mao Senpai

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This makes me wonder since... my most recent leopard is like half the size of the other torts even with it's new growth and it seems to be ... either slow or weird....
 

kbaker

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My Sulcatas mostly hatch between 75 and 100 days. They do just fine. The ones that don't hatch with the clutch (+/- a week) and take longer, are the ones that are not as strong...or they develop and die in the egg without pipping.

My biggest problem is fertility, but my males are young. I hope fertility improves over the next couple of years.
 

ALDABRAMAN

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Ours (Aldabras) never have pip'd before 100 days. We have had clutches in the low 100 days and some up to 130 days. They all tend to pip within several days of each other. I do think that higher temperatures during the incubation time induces them to develop faster.
 

onarock

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Thanks for sharing your experience. I hope more people who produce chime in. How long have you been producing hatchlings?

kbaker said:
My Sulcatas mostly hatch between 75 and 100 days. They do just fine. The ones that don't hatch with the clutch (+/- a week) and take longer, are the ones that are not as strong...or they develop and die in the egg without pipping.

My biggest problem is fertility, but my males are young. I hope fertility improves over the next couple of years.



Greg, do you know of any issues with the ones that went closer to the 130 day mark?

ALDABRAMAN said:
Ours (Aldabras) never have pip'd before 100 days. We have had clutches in the low 100 days and some up to 130 days. They all tend to pip within several days of each other. I do think that higher temperatures during the incubation time induces them to develop faster.
 

TortieLuver

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Honestly, I haven't read, heard, researched, or even had my vet tell me that piping under 100 days is a problem or causes health problems. I don't think their ability to "thrive or are more susceptible to sickness" lies behind the hatching prior to 100 days. Every species is different when hatched naturally or artificially. I also believe that environment (where you live) plays a part in the breeding and hatching cycle. Even hatching out African tortoises for example, in Arizona natural incubation appears to be nine months for both, sometimes a bit longer for Leos and they tend to stay underground for a couple weeks before coming up to the ground. With hatchlings through artificial incubation, I find my Leos to take 110 days minimum and my Sulcatas are about 93 days give or take a few days, but did have one clutch at 82 days. All of my hatchlings born have been active, healthy, and have no problems with them. I have shipped them across the country and stay in touch with people that have my hatchlings and they all are doing well and thriving. I keep thorough records on everything and my kids always seem to want to keep one from just about every clutch, so I have been raising some of them up as well and no problems. There are so many reasons why a hatchling wouldn't thrive or get sick throughout the first year and/or just in general throughout life depending on optimal conditions and the care they receive. I would like to see supporting evidence on this, as I think perhaps people reading this may become concerned about this issue or put blame with their non-thriving or sick tortoise on the breeder. I take great pride in hatching healthy tortoises and don't believe one bit that hatching under 100 days causes or may cause the above. Again, every species is different with time of incubation and we all know that having higher temps produces females and speeds up the incubation process, but having them too high can cause issues. Even with temps to create females, mine come out A grades, as I don't go too high and they hatch within the timeframe above. I know there are also some breeders out there that aren't reputable and don't really know what they are doing, which would be a cause for concern more to a buyer. I think more importantly for people interested in buying a hatchling, buy from someone reputable, recommended, or make sure to ask them questions, see pictures before buying, do they can any information they can send you (care sheet included)etc.
 

ALDABRAMAN

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onarock said:
Thanks for sharing your experience. I hope more people who produce chime in. How long have you been producing hatchlings?

kbaker said:
My Sulcatas mostly hatch between 75 and 100 days. They do just fine. The ones that don't hatch with the clutch (+/- a week) and take longer, are the ones that are not as strong...or they develop and die in the egg without pipping.

My biggest problem is fertility, but my males are young. I hope fertility improves over the next couple of years.



Greg, do you know of any issues with the ones that went closer to the 130 day mark?

ALDABRAMAN said:
Ours (Aldabras) never have pip'd before 100 days. We have had clutches in the low 100 days and some up to 130 days. They all tend to pip within several days of each other. I do think that higher temperatures during the incubation time induces them to develop faster.



:tort: No, however I have noticed that the majority that are incubated at 86 to 88 pip sooner on the average than the clutches incubated at the 84 to 86.

Note: Most of our hatchlings we never know the destination and no idea of any issues if any. The customers that we have contact with, no issues so far. We have one customer that has our hatchlings going back over ten years and they are doing great.

 

kbaker

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onarock said:
Thanks for sharing your experience. I hope more people who produce chime in. How long have you been producing hatchlings?

July should be the start of the fourth breeding season for me.:D
 

TortieLuver

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Kbaker~Your hatchlings are always so cute looking and healthy!! It's always a pleasure to talk tortoises with you and share our experiences.
 

onarock

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Thanks for sharing Christy. I'm glad you chimed in. This subject has been on my mind for some time now. I have had hatchlings hatch sooner than expected, as I wrote in my OP, and had reservations on selling them. And, like I wrote, I have had reservations buying them as well. I would just like to know if anyone has documented first hand experience with this.

TortieLuver said:
Honestly, I haven't read, heard, researched, or even had my vet tell me that piping under 100 days is a problem or causes health problems. I don't think their ability to "thrive or are more susceptible to sickness" lies behind the hatching prior to 100 days. Every species is different when hatched naturally or artificially. I also believe that environment (where you live) plays a part in the breeding and hatching cycle. Even hatching out African tortoises for example, in Arizona natural incubation appears to be nine months for both, sometimes a bit longer for Leos and they tend to stay underground for a couple weeks before coming up to the ground. With hatchlings through artificial incubation, I find my Leos to take 110 days minimum and my Sulcatas are about 93 days give or take a few days, but did have one clutch at 82 days. All of my hatchlings born have been active, healthy, and have no problems with them. I have shipped them across the country and stay in touch with people that have my hatchlings and they all are doing well and thriving. I keep thorough records on everything and my kids always seem to want to keep one from just about every clutch, so I have been raising some of them up as well and no problems. There are so many reasons why a hatchling wouldn't thrive or get sick throughout the first year and/or just in general throughout life depending on optimal conditions and the care they receive. I would like to see supporting evidence on this, as I think perhaps people reading this may become concerned about this issue or put blame with their non-thriving or sick tortoise on the breeder. I take great pride in hatching healthy tortoises and don't believe one bit that hatching under 100 days causes or may cause the above. Again, every species is different with time of incubation and we all know that having higher temps produces females and speeds up the incubation process, but having them too high can cause issues. Even with temps to create females, mine come out A grades, as I don't go too high and they hatch within the timeframe above. I know there are also some breeders out there that aren't reputable and don't really know what they are doing, which would be a cause for concern more to a buyer. I think more importantly for people interested in buying a hatchling, buy from someone reputable, recommended, or make sure to ask them questions, see pictures before buying, do they can any information they can send you (care sheet included)etc.
 

murdocjunior

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Mine started to hatch at 80-88 they are perfectly fine and very active but what lies in the futre for them i dont know.
 

onarock

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What type of tortoises? If possible, can you keep us updated?
 

murdocjunior

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Sulcata sure ill keep u updated. They are very active and eating well they are guna be a month old on the 1st
 
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