Greenhouse for redfoot

Tortoisejim

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I have a 6 month old redfoot in great health but I am looking to boost the humidity in his enclosure by use of a small indoor greenhouse(4x2’). I need any advice I can get on if I need to vent it or not. And some pros and cons please. I want the best life for my lil tort buddy. Thank you!
 

Toddrickfl1

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No need for vents. Opening everyday for food and water is enough air exchange.
 

crimson_lotus

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i feel like if you put the greenhouse around the wood, you would probably need to cover the existing exposed wood to prevent mold. if you did put the greenhouse up though, and used it to hang the lights, it may prevent an imminent fire hazard. clamp lamps tend to eventually fail and could hurt/kill your tortoise, start a fire, etc. it's better to use something more secure to fasten the lights.

something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055FSKPW/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

would prevent rot

what types of lights are you using? redfoots don't bask so if you have an MVB i would suggest to replace it with a CHE and a uv strip
 
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Tortoisejim

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i feel like if you put the greenhouse around the wood, you would probably need to cover the existing exposed wood to prevent mold. if you did put the greenhouse up though, and used it to hang the lights, it may prevent an imminent fire hazard. clamp lamps tend to eventually fail and could hurt/kill your tortoise, start a fire, etc. it's better to use something more secure to fasten the lights.

something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055FSKPW/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

would prevent rot

what types of lights are you using? redfoots don't bask so if you have an MVB i would suggest to replace it with a CHE and a uv strip
Would a che bulb be too hot in an enclosed chamber?
 

crimson_lotus

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Would a che bulb be too hot in an enclosed chamber?

MVB's emit heat too, if that's what you have.

You will have to tweak your enclosure and measure the temperatures accurately to make sure you have ambient temps of ~80 degrees throughout. If you need the extra heat, add a CHE. I have a 4x8 enclosure in a 70 degree base temp room - I require 2 100w CHE's to heat and maintain an 80 degree space for my tortoise. Try to use a thermostat to maintain this, so the heat lights shut off when not needed
 

Tortoisejim

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MVB's emit heat too, if that's what you have.

You will have to tweak your enclosure and measure the temperatures accurately to make sure you have ambient temps of ~80 degrees throughout. If you need the extra heat, add a CHE. I have a 4x8 enclosure in a 70 degree base temp room - I require 2 100w CHE's to heat and maintain an 80 degree space for my tortoise. Try to use a thermostat to maintain this, so the heat lights shut off when not needed
I understand. But if I can toy with the height of the lamp for the right temp can I get away with not having to buy a thermostat?
 

crimson_lotus

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I understand. But if I can toy with the height of the lamp for the right temp can I get away with not having to buy a thermostat?

the uv light needs to be a certain distance away from the top of the tortoises shell in order to be useful. usually they indicate this on the package of the light.

heat lights should not be adjusted too close to the top of your tortoises shell as it can cause burns. in an enclosed chamber, adjusting the height of the heat light will not really change the overall temp of the enclosure, either

this is the thermostat i use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

the reptile ones haven't lasted as long for me as I think they should have for the price
 
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Toddrickfl1

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Should I build a lid for this enclosure or just buy a plastic greenhouse to put around it?
Greenhouse would probably be the easier route imo.

Would a che bulb be too hot in an enclosed chamber?
You'll need to get a thermostat to hook your CHE up to so you can control the temperature.

I understand. But if I can toy with the height of the lamp for the right temp can I get away with not having to buy a thermostat?
Your tortoise needs heat at night. You can't leave your light on all night so you'll definitely need a CHE with a thermostat.
 

Tortoisejim

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the uv light needs to be a certain distance away from the top of the tortoises shell in order to be useful. usually they indicate this on the package of the light.

heat lights should not be adjusted too close to the top of your tortoises shell as it can cause burns. in an enclosed chamber, adjusting the height of the heat light will not really change the overall temp of the enclosure, either

this is the thermostat i use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

the reptile ones haven't lasted as long for me as I think they should have for the price
Any recommendations on where to buy a thermostat for a good price ?
 

Toddrickfl1

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Tortoisejim

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the uv light needs to be a certain distance away from the top of the tortoises shell in order to be useful. usually they indicate this on the package of the light.

heat lights should not be adjusted too close to the top of your tortoises shell as it can cause burns. in an enclosed chamber, adjusting the height of the heat light will not really change the overall temp of the enclosure, either

this is the thermostat i use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

the reptile ones haven't lasted as long for me as I think they should have for the price
As for the Che what lamp fixture should I use and does it have to be ceramic if I’m using a thermostat?
 

Toddrickfl1

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As for the Che what lamp fixture should I use and does it have to be ceramic if I’m using a thermostat?
Yes the CHE gets hot, you don't want to use anything with a plastic base. I get these brooder lamp fixtures for my CHEs at Walmart
And for a 4x2 does a 100watt sounds good
I would go for 150 watt. The thermostat will cut it off when it reaches the desired temperature.
 

crimson_lotus

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And for a 4x2 does a 100watt sounds good

for a 100w CHE, for example, I have a 150w ceramic fixture - the ceramic is really for safety purposes. Perhaps I am too careful with the wattage vs fixture limit. I would start out with a 100w CHE and place it on a thermostat. if you are not reaching 80 degrees you may need an additional CHE.

just make sure you hang the lights and not clamp them!
 

Tortoisejim

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for a 100w CHE, for example, I have a 150w ceramic fixture - the ceramic is really for safety purposes. Perhaps I am too careful with the wattage vs fixture limit. I would start out with a 100w CHE and place it on a thermostat. if you are not reaching 80 degrees you may need an additional CHE.

just make sure you hang the lights and not clamp them!
I have the che, thermostat, greenhouse, and dome all ordered. What now will I do to keep humidity up in the greenhouse. I am using coco coir rn. What substrate should I use to keep humidity up and avoid shell rot and how deep should I have it?
 

crimson_lotus

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I have the che, thermostat, greenhouse, and dome all ordered. What now will I do to keep humidity up in the greenhouse. I am using coco coir rn. What substrate should I use to keep humidity up and avoid shell rot and how deep should I have it?

I use coco coir but some recommend orchid bark. either works.

mix the substrate with warm water once or twice a week to keep it moist (but not soaked) and keep the greenhouse enclosed. thats it! if you can manage 4-5 inches of substrate, do it. redfoots arent diggers...mine kind of just makes little grooves of herself superficially in her coco coir to take naps
 

Blackdog1714

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If you already have coco choir down you can easily put some orchid bark (Fine Fir Bark bulk or Reptibark brand name in pet trade) over top. The orchid bark is way cleaner and will not track into food and water dishes. The coco choir also gets super dusty the second it dries out where as orchid bark does not.
 
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