Early signs of pyramiding?

Ixorya

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Hello everyone. I am wondering if this is the beginning signs of pyramiding? The slight rised shell? Am I overfeeding? Or am I just over thinking it? @[email protected]

This is Al. Al is around 1 month old.

Humidity levels usually kept between 70 and 90 (it fluctuates depending on the area. The area under busking lamp is usually lower). Temperature is kept highest at 95 and lowest and around 80. Though the corners may sometimes drop to 70+, esp at night. 2 daily soaks (intend to continue twice a day till Al reaches 100g), one in the morning and one at night. Diet is a mixed of different kinds of Vege. Endives, lettuce, mesclun salad mix, wheat grass, and occasional flower and mulberry leaves from a friend's garden. Typically fed twice, once in the morning after soak and once at night after soak.

IMG_20210729_091414.jpg
 

wellington

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I can't see what you are talking about. But if you see raised shell scutes then he could be starting. Doesnt have anything to do with feeding. Its low humidity and using a mvb (murcery vapor bulb)
House in a closed chamber with high humidity 80% and correct temps.
 

Ixorya

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I am using a UVA/UVB bulb that looks like this:

images



I worry these bulbs do not emit enough UVB so I ordered some metal halide ones and a UV meter, which are on the way to me now.

we are moving next year and will be building a closed chamber but as of now anything else I can do to help with the humidity level? I have been misting the carapace as well as wetting and stirring the reptibark daily to help with the humidity levels.

Will this "dripping container of water" method work on orchid bark (repribark)?
 

wellington

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Wow metal halide bulbs are really hot. I know of them with Coral reef aquariums and the intense heat may do worse then a mvb. Not sure they should be used. @Tom @Markw84
Covering the enclosure you have will help hold in humidity, then an open top will.
 

Ixorya

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I was being advised to use the metal halide bulbs for 1 to 2 hours a day (and normal heating bulbs for the rest of the hours of "daytime") to get sufficient UVB. Is this method flawed? I really need more advice. I've been trying to follow Tom's guide but many things that are available in the US are not readily available where I live. Even the seed mix I got from Tortoise Supply got sent back (they can't be shipped over and I am still looking for seeds). I worry I am doing something wrong but due to my limited knowledge, I don't really know what is wrong and how to fix them.

Also, due to my current living situation, I won't be able to provide a closed chamber setup till the middle of next year. I can try to cover it up somehow(?). Maybe?
 

Tom

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I was being advised to use the metal halide bulbs for 1 to 2 hours a day (and normal heating bulbs for the rest of the hours of "daytime") to get sufficient UVB. Is this method flawed? I really need more advice. I've been trying to follow Tom's guide but many things that are available in the US are not readily available where I live. Even the seed mix I got from Tortoise Supply got sent back (they can't be shipped over and I am still looking for seeds). I worry I am doing something wrong but due to my limited knowledge, I don't really know what is wrong and how to fix them.

Also, due to my current living situation, I won't be able to provide a closed chamber setup till the middle of next year. I can try to cover it up somehow(?). Maybe?
Your tortoise needs a closed chamber now. Not a year from now. It also needs the correct heating and lighting to sustain life and not do permanent damage to the carapace. The things it needs are available world wide. If you put your location in your user CP so we can see where you are, the group and other members from your area can make suggestions. "Earth" is funny, but not helpful.

There are four elements to heating and lighting:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. You'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
  3. Light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In the UK, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12%. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html
Rather than focusing on specific equipment, focus on the necessary enclosure parameters and use what you have to create the necessary conditions. If you live somewhere warm, you might only need a regular incandescent basking bulb on a timer indoors. UV can be given to the tortoise with sunshine in a safe outdoor enclosure during favorable weather. Indoor ambient lighting might be achieved with enclosure placement in a well lit room. Overnight heat is not needed if your house stays above 80 degrees (26C) as it does in some tropical areas.

Here is what your tortoise needs:
 

Ixorya

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Thank you so much for the detailed reply. I have some questions on top of the suggestions.

Your tortoise needs a closed chamber now. Not a year from now.
I'll get a temporary greenhouse then. :(

It also needs the correct heating and lighting to sustain life and not do permanent damage to the carapace. The things it needs are available world wide. If you put your location in your user CP so we can see where you are, the group and other members from your area can make suggestions. "Earth" is funny, but not helpful.
I am from Singapore. I actually deliberately took my country down because owning tortoises (of any sort) is illegal where I live. And my picture was in the DP. I panicked after I posted and went to change everything.

There are four elements to heating and lighting:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
I am using the type of basking bulb I posted above and it is maintaining the temperature within range. Will that bulb suffice? Or should I get the incandescent one?

  1. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. You'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
The lowest it has ever gone was still above 70F. I should not need ceramic heating? right?

  1. Light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in bulb types are both fine.
This is for just ambiance light? The room's light is always on when it gets dark. I am under the impression the 2 lights they need are UVB and busking lights.

  1. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In the UK, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12%. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html
This is what I worry about. The apartment I am staying in does not get a lot of sunlight. I ordered a meter and it is shipping over. Also ordered metal halide lights with wattage control. I was advised (by a local terrapin keeper) to use the metal halides for 1 to 2 hours a day. Would like to check if this is a good way to get UVB?
https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html
Rather than focusing on specific equipment, focus on the necessary enclosure parameters and use what you have to create the necessary conditions. If you live somewhere warm, you might only need a regular incandescent basking bulb on a timer indoors. UV can be given to the tortoise with sunshine in a safe outdoor enclosure during favorable weather. Indoor ambient lighting might be achieved with enclosure placement in a well lit room. Overnight heat is not needed if your house stays above 80 degrees (26C) as it does in some tropical areas.

Here is what your tortoise needs:
Thank you for your reply. I will make the necessary adjustments. Hope not too late to stop pyramiding. >.<
 

Tom

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Thank you so much for the detailed reply. I have some questions on top of the suggestions.


I'll get a temporary greenhouse then. :(


I am from Singapore. I actually deliberately took my country down because owning tortoises (of any sort) is illegal where I live. And my picture was in the DP. I panicked after I posted and went to change everything.


I am using the type of basking bulb I posted above and it is maintaining the temperature within range. Will that bulb suffice? Or should I get the incandescent one?


The lowest it has ever gone was still above 70F. I should not need ceramic heating? right?


This is for just ambiance light? The room's light is always on when it gets dark. I am under the impression the 2 lights they need are UVB and busking lights.


This is what I worry about. The apartment I am staying in does not get a lot of sunlight. I ordered a meter and it is shipping over. Also ordered metal halide lights with wattage control. I was advised (by a local terrapin keeper) to use the metal halides for 1 to 2 hours a day. Would like to check if this is a good way to get UVB?
https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html

Thank you for your reply. I will make the necessary adjustments. Hope not too late to stop pyramiding. >.<
A greenhouse is better than an open top, but the right enclosure will make your life easier and the tortoises life better.

I understand about the location now.

You should get an incandescent.

Your star needs a minimum of 80 at night. 70 is too cool. You need night heat.

Your tortoise needs it dark at night.

They need 1 to 4 lights, depending on the factors listed above.

Metal halides don't give off UV. Are you referring to mercury vapor bulbs? Neither should be used over tortoises for the reasons already explained. For UV you need either a safe outdoor enclosure, or you need a good HO florescent UV tube.
 

Ixorya

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Your tortoise needs it dark at night.
We turn off all lights before we go to bed. :D

Metal halides don't give off UV. Are you referring to mercury vapor bulbs? Neither should be used over tortoises for the reasons already explained. For UV you need either a safe outdoor enclosure, or you need a good HO florescent UV tube.
These are the metal halides ones I am talking about:
metal halides

With all the stuff that is on the way, I think I should be able to track everything properly soon.
 
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