Does my Sulcata Tortoise have MBD?

Unitygraph

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I have some photos of my one year old Sulcata tortoise. I noticed two dimples or dents on the back of his shell. Left and right of his rear end shell. Is this signs of MBD or am I just paranoid.
Thank you,
J
 

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wellington

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Doesn't look like it too me. However, most if not all I have seen were full blown mbd, not just starting
What is the diet, enclosure, lights and heat. Any supplements?
So far his shell looks nice and smooth. Let's make sure he looks as good on the inside by giving the info I ask.
 

Unitygraph

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ZooMed tortoise house
100w intense basking spot (exo-terra)
60w CHE (ZooMed ) inside hide sleeping area w/ thermostat to 85 degrees) w/ humidity 80-90%
18” 10.0 uvb fluorescent (reptisun / ZooMed)
Added foil on top cover
Substrate Zoo Med reptibark (watered once or every other day)
Diet consists of orchard hay mixed with moistened Mazuri / dandelion greens / cactus pads / spring mix
Twice a week on Monday and Friday I rub romaine with liquid vitamin (Flukers) and sprinkle with repta calcium w/ vitamin D3 (Flukers)

Doesn't look like it too me. However, most if not all I have seen were full blown mbd, not just starting
What is the diet, enclosure, lights and heat. Any supplements?
So far his shell looks nice and smooth. Let's make sure he looks as good on the inside by giving the info I ask.
 

wellington

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Diet sounds good and uvb is there. Be sure to switch out the uvb bulb per bulb instructions. It's either 6 months or yearly.
The enclosure is way too small and needs enlarging asap or you will have a tort that cant walk, only skid. They have to have proper sized enclosures to roam and build up their muscle. They are a heavy tort and have to have the strength to lift themselves.
 

Unitygraph

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Yes, funny that you mention that about the UVB light. I just replaced it. I actually got it last year July 23 and I know on the box it says to replace once a year, however reading on the tortoise forum it said to switch from 6-9 months. That’s why I it, upon reading the thread. I am in the works into building him an outdoor enclosure, but what I’ve been doing is taking him out in the backyard to roam around a couple times a week for about an hour or so. Thank you so much for your advice. Much appreciated.
 

Unitygraph

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One other quick question. Are the dimples or dents that he has on each side of his shell from the rear a normal thing?

Diet sounds good and uvb is there. Be sure to switch out the uvb bulb per bulb instructions. It's either 6 months or yearly.
The enclosure is way too small and needs enlarging asap or you will have a tort that cant walk, only skid. They have to have proper sized enclosures to roam and build up their muscle. They are a heavy tort and have to have the strength to lift themselves.
 

wellington

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Yes, funny that you mention that about the UVB light. I just replaced it. I actually got it last year July 23 and I know on the box it says to replace once a year, however reading on the tortoise forum it said to switch from 6-9 months. That’s why I it, upon reading the thread. I am in the works into building him an outdoor enclosure, but what I’ve been doing is taking him out in the backyard to roam around a couple times a week for about an hour or so. Thank you so much for your advice. Much appreciated.
If you can get him outside a couple times a week then you dont need the uvb inside. 6 months is really probably best for changing unless you get a uv meter but they are expensive, over 200. That's the only way to know for sure how much uv is really being put out. Getting him outside is cheaper.
 

wellington

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One other quick question. Are the dimples or dents that he has on each side of his shell from the rear a normal thing?
I can't really say on a sully. I have leopards. I don't think it's normal but it's nothing to worry about. I will alert a couple members with sulcatas.
@Tom
@Markw84
@Yvonne G
 

Tom

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ZooMed tortoise house
100w intense basking spot (exo-terra)
60w CHE (ZooMed ) inside hide sleeping area w/ thermostat to 85 degrees) w/ humidity 80-90%
18” 10.0 uvb fluorescent (reptisun / ZooMed)
Added foil on top cover
Substrate Zoo Med reptibark (watered once or every other day)
Diet consists of orchard hay mixed with moistened Mazuri / dandelion greens / cactus pads / spring mix
Twice a week on Monday and Friday I rub romaine with liquid vitamin (Flukers) and sprinkle with repta calcium w/ vitamin D3 (Flukers)
The dimples are normal. You should not have any sort of MBD with our routine.

The Zoomed house is not a good option, and your tortoise is now way too big for it anyway.

Spot lamps should not be used over tortoises. Get a flood or regular round bulb in a hood.

How do you keep ambient above 80 in the rest of the enclosure if the CHE is over the sleeping area?

Regular florescent tubes last for 2-3 years, but they don't make much UV even when they are new. Where in CA are you? If your tortoise can get some outside time a couple times a week, you really don't need UV. You can just keep using that bulb forever for light.

Hay is for older larger sulcatas. I start introducing it to them at around 12". Diet needs more weeds, grasses and leaves. Look for mulberry leaves, lavatera leaves and flowers, hibiscus and grape leaves. You can grow your own grass in pots if needed. More variety over all.

Calcium and vitamins should be given on different days. Calcium interferes with the absorption of other minerals and trace elements.
 

Unitygraph

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Hey Tom,
Thanks for the response. Much appreciated. With the CHE, I got it rigged up inside the sleeping area, not on the outside, it sits right underneath the lid. So I’m able to keep that humidity up in his sleeping area as well. However, on the other not as much as I would like. The wire top is pretty much foiled except for the opening with the heat lamp and UVB light. When I turn the lights off, I then completely cover the top of both lids on each side of the box with a cardboard box. Which rearing even more humidity throughout the night. I do also feed him hibiscus leaves and flowers as well. He loves dandelions and clovers. I will probably start planting the ones you recommended soon. Like mulberry, and so fourth. By the way, I live in Southern California, Los Angeles to be exact. Thanks again Tom and Wellington for all your help and information to get my little guy growing right. By the way Tom, I went on one of your threads that had pics of your night Blox you made, but there are no longer photos available to see. I sure would like to see the pics. So that I can get an idea of what it should look like.

Thanks again,
J
The dimples are normal. You should not have any sort of MBD with our routine.

The Zoomed house is not a good option, and your tortoise is now way too big for it anyway.

Spot lamps should not be used over tortoises. Get a flood or regular round bulb in a hood.

How do you keep ambient above 80 in the rest of the enclosure if the CHE is over the sleeping area?

Regular florescent tubes last for 2-3 years, but they don't make much UV even when they are new. Where in CA are you? If your tortoise can get some outside time a couple times a week, you really don't need UV. You can just keep using that bulb forever for light.

Hay is for older larger sulcatas. I start introducing it to them at around 12". Diet needs more weeds, grasses and leaves. Look for mulberry leaves, lavatera leaves and flowers, hibiscus and grape leaves. You can grow your own grass in pots if needed. More variety over all.

Calcium and vitamins should be given on different days. Calcium interferes with the absorption of other minerals and trace elements.
 

Unitygraph

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Got one more question for you Tom, if you don’t mind. At what age or size will they no longer require humidity?

The dimples are normal. You should not have any sort of MBD with our routine.

The Zoomed house is not a good option, and your tortoise is now way too big for it anyway.

Spot lamps should not be used over tortoises. Get a flood or regular round bulb in a hood.

How do you keep ambient above 80 in the rest of the enclosure if the CHE is over the sleeping area?

Regular florescent tubes last for 2-3 years, but they don't make much UV even when they are new. Where in CA are you? If your tortoise can get some outside time a couple times a week, you really don't need UV. You can just keep using that bulb forever for light.

Hay is for older larger sulcatas. I start introducing it to them at around 12". Diet needs more weeds, grasses and leaves. Look for mulberry leaves, lavatera leaves and flowers, hibiscus and grape leaves. You can grow your own grass in pots if needed. More variety over all.

Calcium and vitamins should be given on different days. Calcium interferes with the absorption of other minerals and trace elements.
 

Maro2Bear

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Got one more question for you Tom, if you don’t mind. At what age or size will they no longer require humidity?

I’ll just chime in and say that humidity is always good. Out in the “wild” where they are native....they have the proper conditions to live. We need to strive to maintain that as well. Ok. Over to @Tom
 

Tom

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Got one more question for you Tom, if you don’t mind. At what age or size will they no longer require humidity?
Here is the night box:

This one will show you more about how to build the box, though you don't need one this big.


They need humidity while they are growing. Once they move outside in our dry climate, all we can do is humdify their sleeping chambers. Having them on grass and in heavily planted areas helps add some ambient humidity too.
 

Unitygraph

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Thank you so much for all the great information, so that I can properly care for my Sulcata. Love this forum. Thanks to all have replied. J

Here is the night box:

This one will show you more about how to build the box, though you don't need one this big.


They need humidity while they are growing. Once they move outside in our dry climate, all we can do is humdify their sleeping chambers. Having them on grass and in heavily planted areas helps add some ambient humidity too.
 
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