Critic my vet? (first visit)

[Texas Scott]

Hey Guys,

After hunting around I found a vet who treats reptiles and seems to have a good reputation with exotic pets. I just wanted to give a quick run down of my experience and am wondering how up to date he is with his tortoise knowledge and treatment. Maybe some more experienced breeders/owners can chime in?

Background info* - Russian Tortoise from petsmart. Ive owned her?him? for a week now. Dr was Dr. Greg Moore of South-ake Animal Hospital. Dallas, TX area.

1. Obviously parasites were found. Treatment: Panacur mixed in food, once every 10 days. I was also told to leave him in a newspaper substrate until parasites were confirmed to be cleared this way I can just trash the newspaper when I find waste. Is that really a good idea?..for 4 weeks....

2. I noted a runny nose, bubbles, no wheezing. RT loves to eat and is very active. Dr told me that it wasn't RI but prescribed antibotic to clear it. Injections every other day for about 10 days. As I was checking out at the counter he came out to me and said it most likely is mycoplasma and that only a blood test would tell. He said most likely he would get a runny nose again. I haven't researched mycoplasma yet. Thoughts?

3. He mentioned that my basking should not really go any higher that 95F even though many caresheets say 95F-100F. I let him know I was getting ready to build an outdoor enclosure but said Dallas temps were to hot and he would need to come indoors during the summer.

I would appreciate any thoughts on the information received above

Thanks all!!

 

[Tom]

1. I leave medicine prescribing and dosages to experienced reptile vets. @deadheadvet ? This sound okay? He will probably tell you that it depends on aha the fecal results were…

Personally, I would not use newspaper. I'd just chuck the old substrate and disinfect with an ammonia solution after the treatment.

2. The first thing I'd do for a runny nose is bump the temps up. Day and night, no lower than 80-85 and still with a 100 degree basking site. THey live at low temps for so long in those pet store tanks that sickness is to be expected. Warm temps will usually clear that up. I leave it hot for at least two weeks AFTER symptoms disappear, and I soak daily to maintain hydration with all that desiccating heat. Not a bad idea to soak daily for a little while anyway given your tortoises history. I don't know about the mycoplasma thing. I don't know what he saw that makes him think its not the start of a regular RI due to stress and cold pet store temps.

3. Hog wash. You don't think summer temps in Afghanistan exceed 95? Ask a war veteran whose been over there recently. If the entire tank were getting over 100, you might have an issue. A relatively small basking area, simulating a sunny spot outside, only MUCH cooler than the sun would be, is a necessary element of an indoor enclosure. Russians are housed outside all across the Southern US in climates that are just as hot as yours. They do fine and thrive. You can't stick them in a shadeless flat sunny spot with no way to escape the heat, but good lord man, make some shady spots with some plants, trees and structures, and/or give them an underground retreat, and your climate is great for them to live in in summer. Check this out:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/semi-underground-russian-box.98590/
Almost every summer day here is near or above 100. We get up to 115 sometimes in summer. My russians thrive outside all summer, they just go under ground when it gets hot in the middle of the day, then come out to graze in the cooler evenings and mornings.

 

[deadheadvet]

Would like to know the result of the fecal analysis. I have mentioned multiple times that not every parasite found is a problem. Some definitely require deworming, but without seeing the results? As far as Mycoplasma, very difficult to completely clear. Without knowing what antibiotic was used can not render an opinion. PCR for Mycoplasma would be very worthwhile. Back seat driving, do not buy reptiles at Petstupid.

 

[Tortoise_Wrangler]

When it comes to outdoor temps, it doesn't matter how hot it gets. Just make sure he has a proper hide, I built my Russians a hide out of cinder blocks, pavers, 2' inch thick wood, pond liner and dirt. I first built a mound up about 5 inches higher than the rest of the enclosure, then placed pavers down for a floor, which I covered in dirt and peat moss. Then I built the walls with cinder blocks, and filled them with dirt, then I cut the 2 inch thick wood into sizable pieces for the roof. I covered the entire house with pond liner, then buried that in a few inches of dirt. I live in SoCal and it gets pretty hot, but this hide I made is perfect for escaping the heat. Your tortoise will know when to come in out of the heat, so just have him a nice house to hide in and he'll be just fine. Other than that, the advice above is spot on, I've learned a lot from this forum, and I've been raising tortoises for 23 years, thought I knew more than most, then read all the info from this site and realized I was very amateur. Always ask questions and don't be scared that you might look inexperienced, asking the most simplistic of questions could save your tort's life.

Anyways, good luck, Tortoises are a great pet for everyone.

 

[Texas Scott]

Would like to know the result of the fecal analysis. I have mentioned multiple times that not every parasite found is a problem. Some definitely require deworming, but without seeing the results? As far as Mycoplasma, very difficult to completely clear. Without knowing what antibiotic was used can not render an opinion. PCR for Mycoplasma would be very worthwhile. Back seat driving, do not buy reptiles at Petstupid.

Well looks like the antibiotic is Baytril. I gave them a ring and the parasites being treated are hookworms and (trichomonas?)

1. I leave medicine prescribing and dosages to experienced reptile vets. @deadheadvet ? This sound okay? He will probably tell you that it depends on aha the fecal results were…

Personally, I would not use newspaper. I'd just chuck the old substrate and disinfect with an ammonia solution after the treatment.

2. The first thing I'd do for a runny nose is bump the temps up. Day and night, no lower than 80-85 and still with a 100 degree basking site. THey live at low temps for so long in those pet store tanks that sickness is to be expected. Warm temps will usually clear that up. I leave it hot for at least two weeks AFTER symptoms disappear, and I soak daily to maintain hydration with all that desiccating heat. Not a bad idea to soak daily for a little while anyway given your tortoises history. I don't know about the mycoplasma thing. I don't know what he saw that makes him think its not the start of a regular RI due to stress and cold pet store temps.

3. Hog wash. You don't think summer temps in Afghanistan exceed 95? Ask a war veteran whose been over there recently. If the entire tank were getting over 100, you might have an issue. A relatively small basking area, simulating a sunny spot outside, only MUCH cooler than the sun would be, is a necessary element of an indoor enclosure. Russians are housed outside all across the Southern US in climates that are just as hot as yours. They do fine and thrive. You can't stick them in a shadeless flat sunny spot with no way to escape the heat, but good lord man, make some shady spots with some plants, trees and structures, and/or give them an underground retreat, and your climate is great for them to live in in summer. Check this out:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/semi-underground-russian-box.98590/
Almost every summer day here is near or above 100. We get up to 115 sometimes in summer. My russians thrive outside all summer, they just go under ground when it gets hot in the middle of the day, then come out to graze in the cooler evenings and mornings.

Thanks - Ive followed your suggestions to bump the temps, and the vet is out of touch regarding the temps/climate.

 

[deadheadvet]

Fenbendazole is not indicated for Trichomonads, likely Metronidazole would be needed. Fenbendazole will take care of the hookworms (which sp. of hookworm was it?)