Cherry head hatchlings enclosures ** rapid fire critique request!**

[xirxes]

I know I must be a masochist, but I have this weekend to fine tune these enclosures to accommodate 5x cherry head hatchlings.

I know that humidity and temp are key with these, so let me list what I have done, and what I plan to do before tomorrow eve.

My plan is to keep them in a fully shaded OUTSIDE enclosure. I already see the eyes rolling, but I am making every accommodation to create a relatively enclosed/regulated/shaded outside system for now.

Main system: 3'x6' rubber made water trough. Lower substrate layer compacted coconut choir, 2", upper layer shredded coco chunks 3". Hide is 10"x14"x7" tall. Built a support for a hydration/heat water reservoir above the hide unreachable by torts.

Planted 5x bromeliads and 1x hibiscus, all kept in own pots surrounded by substrate. Left 1/10 of substrate just coco choir to dry out, far end from cool shaded hide.

Covered hide end with wood for solid permanent shade, covered 7/8 of system with acrylic for humidity

What I plan to do before they arrive Wednesday:

shade overhead sunshade x 2 so that no direct sun hits the system, add a 12" wood beam across mid to anchor and wire a heater connected to a thermostat controller locked in at 80F, as well as a hotspot at ~100F and cut the acrylic to accommodate the beam and extend it to cover 95-98% of top to trap humidity.

Also install a pool for them.

Just in case that is not right by Wednesday, or can only be for the day, I've created this backup inside night box, 1.5'x2.5'x6".

Same idea as outside, but wood cover as hide, two water holes etc.

So go ahead! Help me with anything I might have missed/suggestions!

I will absolutely be keeping them outside as soon as I can get the variables (temp, humidity, hot spot, cool spot, pool) sorted.

Thanks!

 

[Anyfoot]

You don't need a hot spot for this species, they don't bask at such a young age. Keep temps at 78 to 86f period. No hot incandescent bulbs, this will cause them to pyramid. Soak them every day until 6 months old. Then ebb away with soaks.

 

[Anyfoot]

Also if you have 5 babies you need more than 5 hides. Give them a choice.

 

[xirxes]

You don't need a hot spot for this species, they don't bask at such a young age. Keep temps at 78 to 86f period. No hot incandescent bulbs, this will cause them to pyramid. Soak them every day until 6 months old. Then ebb away with soaks.

This is news to me, and well appreciated!

I will forgo a basking spot and swap in a heat bulb. I will also add a few more hides to ease the tension thanks!

 

[Yvonne G]

Also, get a piece of board, such as a 1x2 and place it across that enclosure in the first picture to help support the plexi. The plexi is not very wide and looks like it might be fairly easy to be bumped and fall into the enclosure. The little board across will help support it.

 

[xirxes]

Also, get a piece of board, such as a 1x2 and place it across that enclosure in the first picture to help support the plexi. The plexi is not very wide and looks like it might be fairly easy to be bumped and fall into the enclosure. The little board across will help support it.

I like the idea of support, but I don't want to raise the plexiglass up off the lip, losing my hard won humidity. I will try to attach the wood on top of plexi and support it that way, or just wedge it between the side walls under plexi

 

[ZEROPILOT]

If you use care, you can drill small holes into the plexiglass and with wood screws, attach the wooden framework to the top.
Id use stainless screws because of the humidity. And place masking tape over the areas to be drilled to help the plexiglass not crack or chip as you drill into it.
Silicone adhesive made for glass aquariums should also hold plexiglass and wood together and require no other tools.

 

[xirxes]

My current design, to be tested tomorrow, has a 2x12" board with a 100 watt CHE mounted directly above the water reservior, on bottom of board with metal junction box, also with a wet weather drip edge installed and sealed around the junction box to ensure it will not get dripped into, should give me about 6" clearance to water.

This will establish a warm wet area under fullest cover, then exiting towards cooler dry area at far end, also will not allow torts to cook directly under CHE.
In theory the water will change temp slower than the air, will hold more heat in, will evaporate faster if warmed to keep humidity up... What do we think about this?

I have cinched the outside edges a bit closer using adjustable bungies, allowing for the plexiglass to sit firmly on 2' of ledge on each side and also be locked down from predators. Also 80% shade sails were installed today to eliminate any direct sun.

 

[xirxes]

Current and final redesign, lowered the water reservoir in rear for more air clearance, added a second raised reservoir and added damp sphagnum in hide and under platform for second hide. I will be swapping out spot heat lamp for 100w CHE today and test for locked 80F temp overnight.

Considering cutting the last foot of plexiglass off so I can slide it forward/backward to control humidity/hot temps during daytime.

Any other tips/tricks/recommendations appreciated!

 

[xirxes]

I think it's dialed in, i will check the temps/humidity at morning, midday and evening tomorrow, but it seems that i can lock down 75-79% relative humidity all day if i only cover half of the system in plexi, letting it air out and dry out to avoid shell rot/fungus/coconut husk rot. Temperature seems to be 79-85 under the shade cloth for now during sun, which gives me some room to get to high 90's when our real heat hits in a few months.

I am testing tonight, but if i cover the system completely with plexiglass, clamp it down for predators, i am having no trouble keeping it at 78-80F and by morning it should be about 90% humidity. I am planning light substrate mist in mornings then let it dry out all day down to 70% before closing her up again over night.

I went with a 250 watt CHE mounted 14" over the rear humidity reservoir for the night time heat source. 1: its what i have on hand, 2: It will heat system faster, potentially heat the water reservoir more for long term heat, and 3: it is over reservoir so there is no issue of cooking hatchlings.

if i find that the humidity is just too much, i may remove plexiglass fully during day, but we will see.

Babies arrive on Wednesday!

I am not sure IF i want to put in soaking pools, and where i should place them or just stick to my daily soak of the babies by hand for first 6 months. it would have to be very shallow to ensure that they could not perish by drowning while I'm away all day at work. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated.

 

[xirxes]

Concerned with humidity first overnight test, seems to get to 93% in some places, while locking in 82F ambient temp overnight seems pretty much max without running CHE nonstop.

I'm sure I'm not the first to attempt to wrangle the heat/humidity problem, but I hope that there is not such a thing as "too humid" short term.

 

[Anyfoot]

Concerned with humidity first overnight test, seems to get to 93% in some places, while locking in 82F ambient temp overnight seems pretty much max without running CHE nonstop.

I'm sure I'm not the first to attempt to wrangle the heat/humidity problem, but I hope that there is not such a thing as "too humid" short term.

I have a constant 90%+ with my humidity, but you will see it calm down a little when your enclosure has settled down. Readings will be higher whilst everything is new.

 

[xirxes]

Should I attempt to seal up ALL the gaps for overnight?

It seems like the heat is just leaking out wholesale and stays on all night.

Also what part of the system should I establish my overnight 80F? Low on ground below heat source? Far end high up? With out overnights still getting down to 59F, I can have 82F on high heater side with 70F low opposite end.

Thanks.

 

[xirxes]

Report after a few days running:

It is pretty simple to keep this system at 82F overnight, even with outside temps hitting 59F. The humidity seems to stay 90-95% when the system is closed, the surface spaghnum under CHE tends to dry out, but at the far end of the system it literally "rains" when I pull off the top for morning soak and feed.

Using reservoir water to wet the spaghnum in 4 areas, two of which are covered hides. I am not spraying everything, as having dry substrate with moist hides and ambient 82F with 92-4% humidity seems perfect.

We have had cloud over most of the days since they arrived, and I think that I may need to keep them open 1/4 now that heat is coming to avoid temps ramping up under closed plexi outside shaded sun. This will dry things out some, but also allow in some UVB. Aiming to max out at 95F, while retaining as much humidity as possible, locking back in at 82F at night.

Heater takes about 1kW/ 24 hours, equivalent to ~$9 a month for now. Will ramp down until late October, then back up until June, I imagine ~15$/month average.

 

[xirxes]

I am giving the little torts at least 10-15 minutes of unfiltered sunlight each day during their soak. Although they are covered completely with thin plexiglass in cold weather for temp/humidity sealing, as the heat comes in i will pull this back/remove the plexi giving them at least 50% of their enclosure, if not all of it open to 80% shade cloth filtered sunlight. I also am dusting each meal for now very lightly with calcium w/ D3.

Do i need to add a UVB lighting fixture to the system on a 10-12 hour timer as well? I want to ensure enough D3 for calcium uptake.

Current feeding so far:
day 1: dusted radicchio
day 2: dusted gape leaves and jacaranda flowers
day 3: soaked squashed Mazuri tort diet
day 4: dusted romaine and grape leaf
day 5 plan: dusted watermelon
day 6 plan: tiny organic turkey pieces

 

[xirxes]

Update from Redfoot subforum thread:

Changed out all coco husk for fine orchid bark. The husk was staying quite wet and rotting where it met the lower coir layer. This led to the start of fungus on a few hatchlings.

Will update if/when the issues clear up.

 

[xirxes]

This mornings project: Upcycle Frankenstein insulation!

Budget: $60

Materials: found small pallets, R30 attic insulation, 1.5" insulation foam board

I filled the pallets with insulation, then used remainder to fill air gaps between tub and pallets, creating an insulating box of sorts. Top cut to sit over the whole apparatus, will keep a blanket over the plexiglass at night.

This should keep my temps easily at 84 even when we get near freezing!

 

[Yvonne G]

How inventive you are. I would never have thought to do that. It looks like it's working, judging from the condensation on the lid.

 

[xirxes]

Today was a trial by fire and i am happy to say that the enclosure passed with flying colors!

Todays temps were 97F with 10% humidity for the majority of the day.

After setting in an 80% shade cloth over the whole area, insulating all around the enclosure, raising full sheet of rigid insulation about 2' above the enclosure as a solid shade during the day, wetting down the three areas of spaghnum, installing an ambient reservoir of water for humidity under plexiglass, but NOT under the heater, and plexiglass covering 75% of wet end of enclosure....(phew that's a lot of steps) I arrived home in the heat of the day to find ambient temps at 84F, humidity at 59%, and surface temps inside enclosure ranging from 78F(covered humid hide inside) to 83F(open dry side).

Success!!! I always mist system and soak the hatchlings after i get home, so their humidity pops back up late day, dialed in at 80F and 90% humidity overnight.

It will not get much worse for us temp wise, another 8-10 degrees ambient, but this system is officially dialed in! im thinking i may add another shade cloth to area if we are aiming for a solid week above 100F, but im happy with the results.