CHE vs RHP for Ambient/Night Heating

Sue Ann

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I have recently switched to all RHPs in my indoor enclosures. I really prefer them.
Yvonne, my son just made me an outdoor night box for Dexter. He found plans here. We have a Kane mat and an RHP. He hung it from chains from the ceiling so it would be adjustable. Is this ok?
 

Srmcclure

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I have a RHP in mine and i have had it for a couple days now, and I think I like it much better. My tort is also a lot more active with it. I think it was way to hot directly underneath it and he was not amused lol

I'm also no longer accidentally burning myself trying to get or fix something in the back of his enclosure. No, not everyone will burn themselves, im just clumsy lol
 

Erik Elvis

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I prefer RHP’s. I have 3 animal plastic cages that I keep in the basement stacked on top of one another. The lowest cage has trouble maintaining temps in the winter. I should have went with bigger panels. I can’t remember the brand but I use temp controllers that can handle 2 different enclosures.
 

ErinH

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One thing: all heating devices should be controlled with a thermostat.
RHP NEVER get so hot you should worry about directly touching them, if the touch or lean against something they should not cause a burn or start a fire. The surface temp may get to about 100F to 110F. CHE's even low wattage ones like the nano 25 watt, can burn your skin with prolonged contact.

RHP's can be mounted on the wall of the enclosure allowing the tortoise to have actual contact, or sit a few inches away and still get warmed. I have most experience with the models made by Vivarium Electronics, those have some kind of thermal switch, so in the event the thermostat fails they heat panel will shut itself off. Very safe for your tortoise and your home.

I saw that @Yvonne G has one sitting on bricks as a roof. Can I do that with the VE? Lens up or down?
 

Blackdog1714

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I am on team CHE in this debate
RHP's are overly expensive and unnecessary IMHO
Building my new enclosure I was setting up the CHE, but had to go take a phone call. Well it slipped down and landed flat on the plywood floor. 400 degrees plus cooked a hole in the plywood, but luckily the fire retardant insulation I used was. So I am team RHP!
 

Sue Ann

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Good evening everyone, and thank you in advanced for your consideration in regards to my inquiry.

I am a new member to tortoise forum, and I am looking for advice/opinions in regards to your experience with Ceramic Heat Emitters or Radiant Heat Panels for ambient/night heat in closed containers for Sulcata and Leopard tortoises. I am leaning toward CHE due to cost effectiveness since I will have multiple enclosures, but I want to make sure that I am meeting all of the needs of the torts!

I do have a little bit of time since they haven't hatched yet, but I just want to make sure that I am fully educated and ready for them when they arrive!

Thank you again for all of your help!
I have. 17 mo Sulcata that I just moved outside full time. While he was inside I used a Che and was very happy. No problems as long it is controlled by a thermostat
In Dexters outdoor night box I have a Kane mat on the floor and an RHP on the ceiling.
 

Kapidolo Farms

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Both the 'sweeter heater' and 'Vivarium electronics' brands of RHP have a edge or lip that does not have the heat element inside. When I have placed these heaters on bricks they are on that edge. The part of the face where the internal 'heat' element is, does not sit on the brick. Please take a critical look at the videos. I think the placement of the thermostat prob will have a strong influence of the distance question. I place the prob so it is closer to the heat face of the RHP than the tortoises will be able to get to when the RHP is overhead.

I can imagine with a little critical thinking you'll notice I don't use that as a consideration (prob closer than tortoise) when I mount the RHP on a wall. In this case I am not trying to create an ambient temp with the RHP, and fully intend for the tortoise to lean against it for the heat.

When overhead I am intending to run the RHP at higher temps, to both make a 'basking' spot and heat the enclosure, while when on a wall the RHP is just for the tortoise to directly warm itself.

Ok, thank you! So hot side sitting on the bricks is ok? Does it need to be a certain distance from the top of the shell?
 

Minority2

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When overhead I am intending to run the RHP at higher temps, to both make a 'basking' spot and heat the enclosure, while when on a wall the RHP is just for the tortoise to directly warm itself.

Please let us know how that works out if and when you manage to make this happen. Please also include comparison costs of your typical setup vs one that is achievable with only reptile heating panels alone. That's going be some groundbreaking stuff.
 

Kapidolo Farms

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I have posted both ways of applying RHP's here on TFO, at least once, if not more. Specific research requests cost $20.00/hr cash up front, :cool:. Costs are posted by myself, I sell RHP, as well as from Reptile Basics.
Please let us know how that works out if and when you manage to make this happen. Please also include comparison costs of your typical setup vs one that is achievable with only reptile heating panels alone. That's going be some groundbreaking stuff.
 

Minority2

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I have posted both ways of applying RHP's here on TFO, at least once, if not more. Specific research requests cost $20.00/hr cash up front, :cool:. Costs are posted by myself, I sell RHP, as well as from Reptile Basics.

Do you have a link of the thread(s)? Googling didn't reveal much results and I don't know if I have the patience to search through all 4900+ of your replies. :D I remember @DeanS saying he was going to come out with a detailed guide on how to use only reptile heating panels as the only heating source but I don't kept up with the forum to know if he's completed it or not.
 

ErinH

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Both the 'sweeter heater' and 'Vivarium electronics' brands of RHP have a edge or lip that does not have the heat element inside. When I have placed these heaters on bricks they are on that edge. The part of the face where the internal 'heat' element is, does not sit on the brick. Please take a critical look at the videos. I think the placement of the thermostat prob will have a strong influence of the distance question. I place the prob so it is closer to the heat face of the RHP than the tortoises will be able to get to when the RHP is overhead.

I can imagine with a little critical thinking you'll notice I don't use that as a consideration (prob closer than tortoise) when I mount the RHP on a wall. In this case I am not trying to create an ambient temp with the RHP, and fully intend for the tortoise to lean against it for the heat.

When overhead I am intending to run the RHP at higher temps, to both make a 'basking' spot and heat the enclosure, while when on a wall the RHP is just for the tortoise to directly warm itself.

Ok thanks! I was thinking maybe the bricks might soak up some heat, but read in the instructions not to touch anything to the lens, so that makes sense.
 

Kapidolo Farms

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The brick(s) do indeed adsorb heat from the panel and re-radiate it. IR (infra Red) radiation travels through the air and is not visible. Just because the heat panel face is not (and should not) lay on the brick does not mean it does not heat the brick, which then re-radiates that heat.

Ok thanks! I was thinking maybe the bricks might soak up some heat, but read in the instructions not to touch anything to the lens, so that makes sense.
 
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