Bubbles

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jlb1077

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My little guy has bubbles coming out of his nose! He is still eating & pooping. I soak him every other day. It seems like there are more bubbles today than yesterday. Any suggestions?
 

ReptilesRevealed

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Bubbles is usually the sign of a respitory infection. I would give it plenty of heat and humidity and take it to a vet.
 

Redstrike

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It can be a sign of a URI, but it can also be from stress and a lack of humidity.

How long have you seen the bubbles, one day, a week?

What is the humidity in your enclosure? Temperatures?

I'm going to say if that's chicken in that feeding dish, that seems like an awfully large portion of protein for that redfoot...
 

Mgridgaway

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Also, when are the bubbles coming out? If it's happening when it's eating or drinking and no other time, it's probably just moisture from the food. The noses are directly connected to their mouths.
 

jlb1077

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There are 2 torts in there that's why so much chicken. I see more bubbles in the am. Has only been going on 3-4 days. None come out when he eats. The humidity is between 30-50%. I spray down the enclosure before I leave for work & when I return. It seems to get much higher at night. I keep them in my closet so they don't get the movement from the ac. What are proper humidity levels?



View attachment 27245

Their house
 

Alan RF

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jlb1077 said:
There are 2 torts in there that's why so much chicken. I see more bubbles in the am. Has only been going on 3-4 days. None come out when he eats. The humidity is between 30-50%. I spray down the enclosure before I leave for work & when I return. It seems to get much higher at night. I keep them in my closet so they don't get the movement from the ac. What are proper humidity levels?


Their house



Humidity I've read for red foots should be between 60 and 80%! :)
 

Redstrike

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jlb1077 said:
There are 2 torts in there that's why so much chicken. I see more bubbles in the am. Has only been going on 3-4 days. None come out when he eats. The humidity is between 30-50%. I spray down the enclosure before I leave for work & when I return. It seems to get much higher at night. I keep them in my closet so they don't get the movement from the ac. What are proper humidity levels?



View attachment 27245

Their house



I don't know your location, but if you're in a dry climate you may need to cover the top to help keep humidity in. My guess is the bubbles may be associated with the low humidity. 30-50% is pretty dry for redfoots. I generally shoot for 70% minimum. This is my setup: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread...ure-via-Heat-ropes-Lots-of-pics#axzz24yLABpDO

I'm going to say even for 2 tortoises, that's a lot of protein! Our captive diets are much richer than they would encounter in the wild, so the amount of protein we need to supplement them with is probably a very small amount. Generally I do not give mine portions larger than 2x their head-size every couple of weeks. Occassionaly they get a real treat and will get an entire pinky mouse (I have two 3-month and two ~ one year old torts, so the proportions are large given their sizes). Others may/will disagree with my protein regiment, this is simply what has been working well for me and is based off of my interpretation of the information presented in Mike Pingleton's book and thetortoiselibrary.com.




I just saw your other thread, how long ago since you took them to the vet to address the first round of bubbles and mucus?
 

jlb1077

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Thanks for info regarding humidity & chicken. This was first time I had ever given it. They really didn't like it much. So most of it was thrown away. I usually give them my dogs dry food (Blue Buffalo) once a week. I got the little one a year ago July. Then went to a reptile store and picked up another one. She is blind & wasn't taken care of at all. So she was sick and got Timmy( little one) sick so they went to vet in June. They got wormed & put on antibiotics. Seemed to have gotten over it & now Timmy has bubbles. Sammy (blind one) seems ok. I currently live in Connecticut. But we move every 3 months!!! Anything I should change in their housing?

What does everyone think of the tortoise table from tortoise supply or the one from zoo med?
 

mightymizz

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Regarding protein, I would rather give them a smaller amount than possibly giving them a too large of an amount, if that makes sense.

I would be very careful with the amount of your dog's food you give them, as I have no idea the fattyness of it, nor its protein content. Maybe someone else knows more here?

What are the temperature ranges throughout the day in their enclosure?

Also, as others have said, you should really try to raise the humidity if you can, as long as your temps are correct also. You just really want to avoid the cold and wet scenario.
 

jlb1077

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Thanks for the info. The temp in the warm area is between 80-90. The cool area is 70-80. I am looking to get a new enclosure. Any suggestions? I looked at the zoo med & tortoise supply tables. Would that be better?
 

Redstrike

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jlb1077 said:
Thanks for the info. The temp in the warm area is between 80-90. The cool area is 70-80. I am looking to get a new enclosure. Any suggestions? I looked at the zoo med & tortoise supply tables. Would that be better?

There's nothing wrong with the Zoo Med tables, but it won't be long before the tortoises outgrow them. I can't quite tell how large your two are currently, but If they're 4-6" I wouldn't bother with one of those. A large tote/christmas tree storage bin/stock tank would be cheaper and work just as well. Some use very large aquariums, check out TerryO's thread here http://tortoiselibrary.com/ - from the sidebar got to "housing" then "planting an interesting habitat". Your current setup could be fine if you invest in a cheap drop cloth or shower curtain to tent over it, thereby boosting humidity and maintaining more steady temperatures.

The other option is to build something. Don't count out an outdoor enclosure if you're a homeowner and have the space. Poke around on the enclosures section and you may get some inspiration.

I think you need to address the humidity and temperatures in your enclosure and you'll see an improvement in your tortoises bubbles and overall health. Directly under your basking spot should be ~90F. Air temps on the warm side should be around 85 and 80 for the cool side. This shouldn't fluctuate too much. It's okay if everything drops to about 80F at night for hatchlings and 70 for adults, but I wouldn't go below 80F for your two given their recent history and current bubbles.

All the information I'm providing you is coming from my interpretation of well researched husbandry at the tortoise libary (linked above) and Mike Pingleton's "Redfoot Manual". Both have excellent housing and husbandry information and I encourage you to read them if you haven't already.
 

Madkins007

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Based on what you've said so far, I do think that your torts could benefit from a little additional research. Mike Pingleton's book, as mentioned, is excellent, and if you buy it from him, he will even sign it for you! http://www.pingleton.com/redfoot/redfoots.htm

You can try the Library as well. I've worked to make it as helpful as I can to new and experienced users, and jammed it with as many links as I can.
 

jlb1077

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So here is the new housing for the torts. The hide has a big bowl with moss in it. Laid some moss in the corner also. Any other suggestions? Hope this helps them

I would like to put some plants and/or flowers in there but have no clue what kind.
 

Redstrike

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jlb1077 said:
So here is the new housing for the torts. The hide has a big bowl with moss in it. Laid some moss in the corner also. Any other suggestions? Hope this helps them

I would like to put some plants and/or flowers in there but have no clue what kind.



Looks nice but I'm a little confused. Other than the change in shape, I don't see how this is much different than the kiddie pool they were in previously... Perhaps their hide is very humid? Do you have a hygrometer to get a reading on that?

Do you have a heat gradient of about 85F on the warm side and 80F in the cool hide?

Again, I'd try to cover the top to increase your humidity levels. If you cover the entire top you'll retain both heat and humidity, and I'm guessing you may need to get a firm grasp on both of these things to improve the health of your tortoises.

I hope you're viewing this as constructive, I'm not trying to berate you with criticism. I would strongly suggest going to the tortoise library and/or picking up a copy of Mike Pingleton's "The Redfoot Manual". You need to address a few things with your husbandry.
 

jlb1077

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Of course I understand you are trying to help me. I appreciate it. Yes the hide is humid. 70% now. The heat end has moss in it to keep up the humidity also. How much of the enclosure should be covered. I was just worried that they wouldn't get enough air circulation. Thanks for your help.
 

Redstrike

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The more the better. I have plexiglass convering all of mine with a hole cut out where the basking lamp goes. I would recommend drilling 1/4 inch holes around the bottom of the enclosure just above the substrate for air exchange. This way you don't lose heat and humidity as it rises up from the substrate.

Take a look at the link I sent you regarding my enclosure in one of my previous posts.
 

jlb1077

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Oh wow. Never realized it needed to be covered that much! I have used some spare lumber & covered it more. Humidity is staying @ 70-80%. That's good right? What plants do you have in there?

Also what flowers would be good?
 

Redstrike

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jlb1077 said:
Oh wow. Never realized it needed to be covered that much! I have used some spare lumber & covered it more. Humidity is staying @ 70-80%. That's good right? What plants do you have in there?

Also what flowers would be good?



70-80 is great! How are your temps?

Spider plants, pothos, and moss that I found around my yard lines the water dishes. This site provides numerous safe plants. If purchased at home dept etc. be sure you give them time before you put them in the enclosure for any pesticides to dissipate (I usually wait a month or two, might not be critical but better safe than sorry).

http://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/site/plants_19.asp

I usually get two spider plants. One I put in the enclosure after "resting" it (as described above) and the other remains in the house where the cats cannot chew it. Every month or two new spider plant off-shoots come off and I clip them for new plants to go into the enclosure. Your torts will eat them, so if you want to keep them from being trampled and eaten, keep them potted inside the enclosure.
 

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Great info Redstrike! In reading these posts, I just made an adjustment to my enclosure to increase humidity. That is my biggest issue but almost completely covering the top of the enclosure does seem to be the trick.
Thank you and jib1077 for the good questions and answers.
 

jlb1077

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Went and bought them some flowers today! Humidity in the hide is a steady 80% now. Temp in the hide varies between 70-75. Temp under the light is 85-90 & humidity in the corner is 65%.

Went and bought them some flowers today! Humidity in the hide is a steady 80% now. Temp in the hide varies between 70-75. Temp under the light is 85-90 & humidity in the corner is 65%.

jlb1077 said:
Went and bought them some flowers today! Humidity in the hide is a steady 80% now. Temp in the hide varies between 70-75. Temp under the light is 85-90 & humidity in the corner is 65%.
 
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