Breeding Russians

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Kristina

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I have a few questions about breeding Russian tortoises. I figure it won't hurt to ask before I get them :)

My first question is hibernation. Is it necessary to hibernate them in order to get them to breed?

If so, for how long, at what temps, and at what time of the year? Would just a cool down period work, or do they actually have to go into hibernation? if I do hibernate, I will probably just buy a Mini Fridge to do it in.

Second, I am getting a 1.2 group. The breeding enclosure will be very large, no smaller than 8 X 8 and will have a lot of sight barriers to help stop agression. I read that I should have at least two females to one male to keep the male from picking at a single female too much. How long should I allow the male to stay in with the females? Should I remove him when/if they start acting like they are gravid? What are some of the signs?

What type of substrate works best for them to lay in, and how deep should it be?

How many clutches will be laid from a single breeding? At what intervals? 2-3 eggs, right?

How long does it take the eggs to hatch? What temp should they be incubated at, what medium should they be incubated in, and what should the humidity be? I do have some experience with incubating eggs, but bird eggs, not reptile. The major difference I think will be orientation of the egg, and bird eggs need to be turned, while tort eggs should be stationary, correct?

I have a Little Giant still-air incubator. I think that it should work just fine.

At what age/size do Russians usually start showing interest in each other?

If I have missed anything, please feel free to offer up any more info.

Kristina
 

egyptiandan

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Quite the list of questions :p

No you don't have to hibernate them to get them to bred. You should though let them get down to the high 50's low 60'sF to have the males be more fertile.
My males stay with my females all the time. I don't seem to have a problem doing that. The sign that a female is gravid is usually pacing. Female Russians don't seem to ram or get aggressive.
Good old soil and at least 8 inches deep.
They can double or triple clutch from a single breeding. The interval from breeding to egg laying is usually 30 to 45 days. Between clutches can be from 20 to 30 days. I've been getting 1 to 4 in a clutch.
It can take 60 to 90 days depending on the temperature. Incubation temperatures should be 28 to 32C. They can be incubated on anything. I incubate dry, so I incubate on aspen bedding. The humidity should be around 70%. Yup no egg turning for tortoises after the first 24 hours.
Your Little Giant will be just fine.
Males from 4 to 5 inches and females 5.5 to 6 inches is when they become fertile and that depends on subspecies.

Danny
 

Kristina

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Thanks Danny! I know I have a lot of questions, but I want to do this right. I see no reason to make mistakes when there are people out there that can help me figure out the best way to go about things. I am very anxious for my first babies also, so if I can can do this well, maybe I will have some this fall. Spring will be the best time for me to expose the torts to high 50 to low 60 degree temps. As long as they are mature enough, it may be a sucess!

Kristina
 

tortoisenerd

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Kristina: When are your new arrivals coming in? Local? I bet you're really excited. :)

I thought of you today when I was buying dandelion greens because of that other thread. I was thrilled because they rang them up as spinach so they were only $3.
 

Kristina

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LOL, I once upon a time put two bunches in one bag, and they rang it up as one... does that make me a bad person? ;)

I am ordered them from a guy in New York. We are waiting on temps to come up a bit before they are shipped, so I am not 100% sure when they will be here, but I am hoping some time within the next two months. I got a pretty good deal on them, $215 for all three shipped.

I am EXTREMELY excited, not just to breed them, but for them themselves! I can't wait, I am dying over here :D

They are wild caught, but they are long term captives. I am confident that they will be healthy when I recieve them. I will have vet check ups and fecals done, of course, before I decide to breed this year or next.

My goal in breeding them is to offer the hatchlings for the same price as wild caught, around $65 each. I know it will not make a huge difference in importation, but I want to do my part. I am perfectly prepared to keep the hatchlings if I can't sell them. I am VERY picky about who gets ANY of my animals, and I always offer that if at any time an owner cannot keep a critter that I have bred or sold, then I will take it back, no questions asked. I require right of first refusal on any animal that leaves my property. If an owner ever has to sell or rehome an animal, they MUST contact me first.

Kristina
 
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