AP Setup for Redfoot Questions T70

[daniellenc]

Attention RF keepers I need your advice please. Little Skurt is now over 210 grams and is too big for his 4x2 baby setup. I ordered the T70 which will house him mid October-mid April and all evenings. However, there are so many lighting and heating options.

I can do 2 CHE’s or RHP which I’m leaning towards for their longevity and more even heating but what wattage? Currently looking at these http://pro-products.com/pro-heat/

So if I go with RHP I can have them mount LED lights on each end or fluorescent. Leaning toward fluorescent because they produce less heat but what fluorescent bulbs I don’t know honestly. They like low light and temps in the low to mid eighties. Or do I have this backwards and LED’s produce less heat?

Now UVB. In the 8 foot cages these can’t be mounted in the middle. So they will need to fit just off center but it’s 24 inches tall and I planned a 6 inch substrate height meaning if top mounted my UVB lights need to be powerful enough to meet his needs with 18-19 inches height or I go for the 18 inch cage except then risk overheating.

I am clueless so if any keepers can break this down for me and help me make some decisions I’d be very grateful.

 

[Erik Elvis]

I’m in the same boat as you. I ordered aT70 for my new leopard and have been toying around with heating/lighting for a month. I think I have that cage figured out. I just decided to place an order for another T70 for my redfoots. I think I’m going to run 2 radiant heat panels, 2 double bulb flourescent fixtures and have an incandescent fixture on each side. I wouldn’t use both incandescents but I want to create a basking side even though redfoots don’t really need it. I was thinking to add a pvc pipe to the upper third of the cage and kinds wrapping fake plants for fish tanks or whatever around it to give it a more spotty light effect that the redfoots might like. I’m sure plenty of UV would still peek through. Oh and I plan on using the double bulb fixtures from lightyourreptiles. He recommended them as they have an external ballast which I learned today create most of the heat on flourescent fixtures.

 

[ColaCarbonaria]

I’ve got a couple of T70 coming as well. I went w a CHE on each side. As far as lighting, bc of th support arch in middle of cage, I went with a single bulb 3’ T5 HO 12% from LYR for uvb on both sides and then went with 3’ 6400 LED for daylight on both sides.
LED isn’t as hot. And you can control your uvb output with different timer.
Just remember the fixtures have to be able to be flush mounted (basically screwed into top of cage) when you send them to AP. And the double bulb fixtures from LYR are not (I’ve got 3 of them). The single tube fixtures are.

 

[Erik Elvis]

I do like the idea of LED and UV on separate timer. What brand LED did you use?

 

[daniellenc]

T70 - 96L X 36W X 24H × 1
$675.00

ADD 20" FLUORESCENT LIGHTS - (REQUIRES 2, PRICE IS FOR THE SET) × 1
checked
$50.00

ADD CAGE CASTERS (10) × 1
checked
$60.00

ADD 8.5" CIRCLE SCREEN = × 2
checked

So far this is where I am at. Adding the CHE'S wasn't an option, but I assume that will be worked out over the phone. I want them placed around 2ft, in on each side. Still no clue where to put the UVB lights or fluorescents. I am having trouble finding 20 inch bulbs and I worry a 5.0 placed 18 inches above will not provide UVB well enough for the 5 months out of the year I can't get him out. Suggestions?

 

[Erik Elvis]

Well thanks to Cola up there I’m doubting my choices

I decided to order a couple 3ft strip LED lights. I figured if I didn’t use them for the cage I can use them as grow lights for plants. And yeah when you talk to Ali over the phone she can add the incandescents and take the measurements to where you want them placed. And I would install your own T5 fixture. I plan on picking up a couple 3 footers from lightyourreptiles.com

Edit: I wouldn’t get the circle screens. Shouldn’t need them. But if you wanted them you could always cover them up if your having trouble keeping the humidity up.

 

[daniellenc]

I am using the screens because I worry about overheating as my room nears 80 on it's own in the summer but will cover in winters. One on each side shouldn't be too bad. How would you mount your own UVB? I worry about drilling into PVC as I don't even know how, lol

 

[Erik Elvis]

It’s 1/2 inch thick pvc material. Shouldn’t be any harder than wood to drill into. If you have trouble with a warm room then LED lighting might be good for you. Def still would need a uvb fixture though

 

[ColaCarbonaria]

I do like the idea of LED and UV on separate timer. What brand LED did you use?

Yeah maybe get a little longer life outa those bulbs and create peak sun conditions for a few hours in middle of day. I found Sunblaster on amazon for LED, we’ll see how they do.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Can you suspend two 18" 5.0 florescent fixtures with wires or chains from to top of the enclosure?
They'd be adjustable this way. And in my situation, the tiny bit of heat given off by the florescent "ballasts" was all the heat I needed.
Not too bright. Not too hot.

 

[ColaCarbonaria]

I am using the screens because I worry about overheating as my room nears 80 on it's own in the summer but will cover in winters. One on each side shouldn't be too bad. How would you mount your own UVB? I worry about drilling into PVC as I don't even know how, lol

Ok this is a double bulb unit from LYR and I just used little cable fasteners on each end and you can see th gap between th unit and th top of my cage. This is what Todd at LYR says you need to have on any units besides th single bulb. So I think these fasteners would work in an AP


And so this is clip style that comes with th single bulb units from LYR you can see you just run th screw up th middle into th top of your cage then snap th light housing into it.



I didn’t use these bc th enclosure I built was 30” high so I used hooks and small chain on this one

 

[daniellenc]

I think hooks and chain might be the only choice. I’m being a tad girlish but I had wanted it perfectly sleek. Secretly I’d hoped it could be top mounted. Since I can’t center mount the UVB I like the idea of two 18 inch fixtures thanks @ZEROPILOT. Where do you guys connect the chain to the UVB? Stupid question I know but I’m looking at my current housing and can’t see where I’d hook it in?

 

[ZEROPILOT]

I'd use some short, stainless steel screws and fender washers.
But make sure that none of the screws touch any wires,etc inside the fixtures.
Generally there's a lot of extra room in there towards the ends.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

I didn't see that @ColaCarbonaria had already posted a near identical idea.

 

[daniellenc]

Yeah but I couldn’t figure out what connected it to the housing so thank you. I’m pretty self sufficient but I know nothing about building anything, the difference in screws and washers or anything like that lol.

 

[Longhorns1187]

It’s 1/2 inch thick pvc material. Shouldn’t be any harder than wood to drill into. If you have trouble with a warm room then LED lighting might be good for you. Def still would need a uvb fixture though

I found it's actually easier to drill into their pvc than wood. I used very little pressure and a lower speed setting to pre drill holes for my Mistking tubing holders.

I am using LED Concepts lighting from Amazon on our Egyptian tortoise and blue tongue skink enclosures and it is working out nicely, so far. Decently white light, that doesn't give off much heat at all. And, it's linkable.