7" sulcata humidity requirements?

NicoleB26

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I am wondering when it is appropriate to move my sulcata out of his closed chamber? I read in an old thread that when he reaches 6"-8" humidity is less important. If I move him to a tort table what should the humidity be at this size? :tort: THANKS!
 

Tom

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That might have been one of my old threads. I was wrong. I used to think that once you got them to 6-8" smooth you were "out of the woods", so to speak. Not correct. Not with sulcatas or South African Leopards anyway. I saw examples of continued smooth growth way back in the good old days when we were still importing this species. I based my incorrect assertions on this previous experience before I actually raised a smooth one from a hatchling myself. I apologize for my incorrect info.

What I'm finding now, along with several other forum members who are also working on learning about and solving this problem with me, is that they still need some humidity into adulthood. If they are growing, their carapace needs some form of moisture and humidity. Well a "closed chamber" is just not practical for large active species. They need large outdoor enclosures for lots of exercising and grazing. The solution that seems to be working is to get some moderate humidity going in their heated night boxes. 50-80% humidity in their sleeping quarters seems to get the job done, at least with what we are seeing so far. I have been putting 5 gallon buckets and other water containers in their night boxes, and this seems to be smoothing out the new growth again. Just make sure their night temps are plenty warm with the added humidity. Cold and damp = a sick tortoise. Warm and humid = smooth growth.

Please let us know what you work out and how well it goes for you. We are all looking to learn here. Thanks.
 

NicoleB26

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Thanks. No need at all to apologize for previous information. You , among others, have made an enormous difference in how most of the tort lovers here care for our pets. My sulcata is in beautiful shape because of the knowledge I've acquired here. I had no intentions of worrying about humidity once he is moved outside full time. Now i know better, once again he will be receiving better care because of knowledge shared here so thank you.
 

Levi the Leopard

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Yup, we are all still learning.

Last summer I moved my juvenile leopards outside and provided them with a heated tort house filled with hay to sleep in. They started to get bumpy, so they would come back inside at night to sleep in the closed chamber. Outside all day, in the chamber all night.

Well, now that Spring is here and my largest guy is 8" I moved him back outside BUT this time his heated house is filled with soil and kept at 60-70% humidity. I also leave a large patch of very tall weeds and keep that well watered. Hopefully with the moderately humid night box and humid hide areas, he will keep the smooth growth. Again, I wont know if this works until some time passes and he experiences new growth.
 

Dizisdalife

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Yup. Me too. Chuck is 4 years old and weighs about 45 pounds. His heated night box has a couple of water dishes on a shelf (thanks Tom) to add humidity. I have also placed a small pan of water on the oil filled radiated heater. Also, and I think this really helps, there is a small fan (a computer case fan) that circulates the air (thanks Ken). I am certain it helps with the humidity as well as the heat distribution.
 

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I started using the computer fans in my big night boxes too (Thanks Joe), and I also think it helps distribute the heat and humidity. I run the fans on low and they are hooked up to the thermostat that runs the heater. So if the heater is on the fan is also on.

I've learned so many things from so many people here on this forum that I can't keep track of it all anymore. We all share so much insight and info. All of our torties are better off for it.
 

Dizisdalife

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Cowboy_Ken said:
My fan runs full time. I figure this keeps temps more stable.

Mine too. Fan is on all the time. I guess I'll find out if the 83,000 hour bearings in the fan really hold up.

I am finding, and maybe it is a Southern California thing, that I still need to soak this big guy as offen as I can. There is a need to keep him hydrated that a simple water dish doesn't give. I am looking into a shallow pond for him as the summer gets into ful swing.
 

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Dizisdalife said:
I am finding, and maybe it is a Southern California thing, that I still need to soak this big guy as offen as I can. There is a need to keep him hydrated that a simple water dish doesn't give.

What makes you say this Joe?
 

Dizisdalife

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We recently had a period of windy, rainy (not much accumulation) cold weather days. During that time Chuck didn't get any soakings at all. Perhaps for 2 weeks, might have been 3 weeks. At the end of this period I was noticing the scute margins starting to look a little angry again. As soon as he had a couple of soakings they started to look better. Not so dry, that is. Chuck drinks from his water dish. When I put him in his soaking pool (kiddie pool) he takes a much bigger, longer drinks than I ever see him take from the dish. Sometimes he doesn't drink much while soaking. He just throws water on his back and soaks. I realize that a couple of soaks shouldn't make that much difference and maybe there are some other reasons for what I observed. For now I'll just continue to soak him once or twice a week when the weather permits.
 

tat2dbetty

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What about with a hatchling sulcata? What should the humidity be?

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Dizisdalife

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tat2dbetty said:
What about with a hatchling sulcata? What should the humidity be?

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I would keep a hatchling at 80% humidity and at least 80F. If the temperature stays much below 80F for any lenght of time you rish an illness.
 

Dizisdalife

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Team Gomberg said:
Joe, I think a pond idea for your Sulcata is a great idea!

Heather, I certainly think that it is something that I need to do for Chuck. One reason is that he will soon be too big to lift in and out of that kiddie pool.
 

tat2dbetty

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Is humidity key to my sulcata not pyramiding?

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tat2dbetty

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I've read so many things about this from diet to exercise and humidity. Morla is my first tort just wanna make sure to do everything right

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Levi the Leopard

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I rule out diet because so many out there fed the low protein, limited quantity diet and their tort still pryamided!
 

Tom

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Team Gomberg said:
I rule out diet because so many out there fed the low protein, limited quantity diet and their tort still pryamided!

Or you can raise them in FL or Louisiana and feed them fish, cat food or monkey chow, and they still don't pyramid.
 
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