New Baby leopard- lethargic and one eye closed

RobynandLeo

New Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
2
Location (City and/or State)
London, UK
I have had my baby leopard for about 3 weeks now and up until the last few days he has been fine. Eating and very lively (as well as going to the toilet in his water every few days).
But yesterday he was very lethargic, sleepy and spent most of the day with one eye closed. I’m worried there’s something we’re not doing right!
He has a glass reptile enclosure, we have a UV light on 12 hours a day and the red heat lamp (temperature at 88 all day and 82 at night) controlled by an internal thermometer. We get him out for a stroll around every few days and he loves being out of the enclosure.
He hates the pellet food the reptile shop gave us and refuses to eat it, so he mostly eats lambs lettuce and some broccoli rice as a treat.
 

RobynandLeo

New Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
2
Location (City and/or State)
London, UK
Here’s some photos of his set up... I don’t have the type of UV/heat light but have read that the red light may cause his eyes to dry? Do I need to change that?
He is actually much better, and eyes now open! But want to check everything is okay for him and the lamps we were told to get are right!

8DA44296-CD5C-482E-A035-4BC9E43C3156.jpeg BA6F4DF9-391C-4D61-B056-CA2AC8C70D0B.jpeg 850232D3-A9AF-4418-9A18-C9BE61E19DAF.jpeg
 

ZEROPILOT

REDFOOT WRANGLER
Moderator
Tortoise Club
5 Year Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jul 16, 2014
Messages
28,938
Location (City and/or State)
South Eastern Florida (U.S.A.)/Rock Hill S.C.
I agree
You can purchase a CHE and use that instead. They don't put out any light at all. Just reliable, radiant heat. Maybe hang one on each end with a cooler area in the center?
Also, I can't tell if that florescent tube is just glass, or if it has one of those clear, plastic sleeves on it. If there is a sleeve, remove it. UV can not pass through clear plastics.
The enclosure looks dry overall.
Your little Leopard needs humidity and semi daily soaks.
 

Yvonne G

Old Timer
TFO Admin
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 23, 2008
Messages
93,405
Location (City and/or State)
Clovis, CA
If the red light is what I think it is, it's way too hot for a baby tortoise - 250 watt brooder light? You can get by with a 100 watt ceramic heat emitter. That will provide no light, but enough heat for that size enclosure. The red being on during the day sometime confuses a tortoise, making the substrate look edible.
 

Maro2Bear

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
May 29, 2014
Messages
14,712
Location (City and/or State)
Glenn Dale, Maryland, USA

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
63,265
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
I have had my baby leopard for about 3 weeks now and up until the last few days he has been fine. Eating and very lively (as well as going to the toilet in his water every few days).
But yesterday he was very lethargic, sleepy and spent most of the day with one eye closed. I’m worried there’s something we’re not doing right!
He has a glass reptile enclosure, we have a UV light on 12 hours a day and the red heat lamp (temperature at 88 all day and 82 at night) controlled by an internal thermometer. We get him out for a stroll around every few days and he loves being out of the enclosure.
He hates the pellet food the reptile shop gave us and refuses to eat it, so he mostly eats lambs lettuce and some broccoli rice as a treat.
Sorry to inform you, but you've received all the typical bad pet store info. In addition, most breeders don't start them right, so you're at a disadvantage to start with.

The care info, including heating, lighting and diet, is all in the care sheet that has been linked for you.

Here is a list of the issues I see, so you know what to fix:
  • They should never be loose on the floor roaming about. Its a recipe for disaster and its too cold.
  • Beech chips are not a suitable substrate. Babies need a damp substrate and you can't dampen beech chips. Fine grade orchid bark works best and you need at least 3 inches of it.
  • No red bulbs. As has already been suggested, use a CHE for ambient heat maintenance. Then you need a basking bulb and your UV tube. CHE should be on your thermostat, and the UV tube and basking bulb can be on the same timer.
  • Soak daily. Every day.
  • Read the diet info in the care sheet. Add much variety. Favor endive and escarole. Add in arugula, cilantro, opuntia pads, and bring mix for variety. Top it with an "herbal hay" mix, or a soaked ZooMed Grassland pellet to add some fiber and variety. It will take time for the tortoise to get used to any new food. Mix the new good stuff with whatever the old favorite stuff is.
Questions are welcome.
 
Top