Pyramiding? Unsure?advice most welcome

[Bigred1974]

Hi there. I have a 2 year old Horsefield named Crystal. We rescued her from a house where she had been living with another Horsefield and was being g bullied. She has been with us since June and we are trying everting we can to make sure she has the best set up and life from now on.
I wanted to check with you guys if you think that her shell has pyramids or if I’m just being paranoid. Some photos to follow. Thanks in advance everyone

 

[Bébert81]

Yes started to pyramiding due to alimentation or/and lack of UVs.

 

[TechnoCheese]

Yes started to pyramiding due to alimentation or/and lack of UVs.

Both of these things have very little to nothing to do with pyramiding. Pyramiding is caused by growth in dry conditions.

 

[Bigred1974]

Thanks. I have been working hard on her humidity since she has arrived with me which has been 3 months. She is getting baths daily as loves them and I have coco coir, orchid substrate and a water spray to keep the table moist. I have ordered a humid thermometer so can make sure it’s right.

 

[TechnoCheese]

Thanks. I have been working hard on her humidity since she has arrived with me which has been 3 months. She is getting baths daily as loves them and I have coco coir, orchid substrate and a water spray to keep the table moist. I have ordered a humid thermometer so can make sure it’s right.

Sounds like you’re doing everything right to get it to start coming in smooth. You might also try covering the enclosure to ensure that the humidity isn’t escaping.
Also ensure that the hygrometer you get is digital and not analog so that you’re getting accurate readings

 

[Bébert81]

Both of these things have very little to nothing to do with pyramiding. Pyramiding is caused by growth in dry conditions.

Right.
Can maintain it outside too depending of climate. Need to be protected against humidity during hibernation but think it's possible in UK.

 

[Tom]

Yes started to pyramiding due to alimentation or/and lack of UVs.

Pyramiding is not caused by food or by lack of UV. Pyramiding is caused by growth in conditions that are too dry.

 

[Tom]

Hi there. I have a 2 year old Horsefield named Crystal. We rescued her from a house where she had been living with another Horsefield and was being g bullied. She has been with us since June and we are trying everting we can to make sure she has the best set up and life from now on.
I wanted to check with you guys if you think that her shell has pyramids or if I’m just being paranoid. Some photos to follow. Thanks in advance everyone

Your tortoise looks pretty good. Good hydration, moderate humidity, a humid hide, and using the right bulbs will help to reduce these effects. What are you currently using for heat and UV? Avoid mercury vapor bulbs, halogen bulbs and any sort of "spot" bulb.

Here are more tips and info:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/

Questions and conversation are welcome.

 

[Bébert81]

Honnestly better to keep them outside if climate permitte it.
I know some people keeping them outside in UK, depending of the exact localisation.

 

[Bigred1974]

Your tortoise looks pretty good. Good hydration, moderate humidity, a humid hide, and using the right bulbs will help to reduce these effects. What are you currently using for heat and UV? Avoid mercury vapor bulbs, halogen bulbs and any sort of "spot" bulb.

Here are more tips and info:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/

Questions and conversation are welcome.

 

[Bigred1974]

Hi Tom - I am using the above. I gave a feeling though I would be better getting a floodlight? Is that correct?

 

[Bigred1974]

Temperature in the table is 105 at the hottest part and 75 at the coolest. She was being bullied before by another Horsefield when we rescued her.

 

[Bigred1974]

Honnestly better to keep them outside if climate permitte it.
I know some people keeping them outside in UK, depending of the exact localisation.

We live in Manchester ☔️☔️☔️☔️

 

[Tom]

That is a mercury vapor bulb. I used to like those, but now realize they have far too many issues and they also cause pyramiding.

There are four elements to heating and lighting:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt floods from the hardware store. I run them on a timer for 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. You can mount a fixture on the ceiling, or hang a dome lamp from the ceiling. Go lower or higher wattage if this makes the enclosure too hot or not warm enough. Do not use "spot" bulbs, mercury vapor bulbs or halogen bulbs.
2. Ambient heat maintenance. Unless your house gets unusually cold at night, you can skip this step for a Russian. Night lows above 60 require no night heat for Testudo species.
3. Light. I use florescent tubes for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most tubes at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. I've been using LEDs lately and they are great, and run cooler than a florescent. This can be set on the same timer as the basking bulb. If your tortoises room is already adequately lit, you don't need this one either.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside in a safe secure enclosure for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. It helps to have a UV meter to test and see what your bulb is actually putting out at your mounting height. Plexi-glass or screen tops will filter out some or all of the UV produced by your bulb.

 

[Bigred1974]

She has been out a lot over the Summer as eventually I would like her to be outside for most of the time

 

[Bigred1974]

That is a mercury vapor bulb. I used to like those, but now realize they have far too many issues and they also cause pyramiding.

There are four elements to heating and lighting:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt floods from the hardware store. I run them on a timer for 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. You can mount a fixture on the ceiling, or hang a dome lamp from the ceiling. Go lower or higher wattage if this makes the enclosure too hot or not warm enough. Do not use "spot" bulbs, mercury vapor bulbs or halogen bulbs.
2. Ambient heat maintenance. Unless your house gets unusually cold at night, you can skip this step for a Russian. Night lows above 60 require no night heat for Testudo species.
3. Light. I use florescent tubes for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most tubes at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. I've been using LEDs lately and they are great, and run cooler than a florescent. This can be set on the same timer as the basking bulb. If your tortoises room is already adequately lit, you don't need this one either.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside in a safe secure enclosure for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. It helps to have a UV meter to test and see what your bulb is actually putting out at your mounting height. Plexi-glass or screen tops will filter out some or all of the UV produced by your bulb.

Thanks. I will look at buying this on payday ( 15th)

 

[Bigred1974]

That is a mercury vapor bulb. I used to like those, but now realize they have far too many issues and they also cause pyramiding.

There are four elements to heating and lighting:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt floods from the hardware store. I run them on a timer for 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. You can mount a fixture on the ceiling, or hang a dome lamp from the ceiling. Go lower or higher wattage if this makes the enclosure too hot or not warm enough. Do not use "spot" bulbs, mercury vapor bulbs or halogen bulbs.
2. Ambient heat maintenance. Unless your house gets unusually cold at night, you can skip this step for a Russian. Night lows above 60 require no night heat for Testudo species.
3. Light. I use florescent tubes for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most tubes at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. I've been using LEDs lately and they are great, and run cooler than a florescent. This can be set on the same timer as the basking bulb. If your tortoises room is already adequately lit, you don't need this one either.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside in a safe secure enclosure for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. It helps to have a UV meter to test and see what your bulb is actually putting out at your mounting height. Plexi-glass or screen tops will filter out some or all of the UV produced by your bulb.

Could she even go outside on a ‘ dull day’. I have an outside temperature measure as well so if it’s over 20oc I have been putting her outside in a secure place.

 

[Blackdog1714]

As long as it is warm enough even dull days contain UV rays. They are just not as strong

 

[Tom]

Could she even go outside on a ‘ dull day’. I have an outside temperature measure as well so if it’s over 20oc I have been putting her outside in a secure place.

No point in putting the tortoise outside on a cloudy 20C day. They can't function or digest their food at that temperature and there is no way to warm up without some sunshine. Better to leave the tortoise inside where it can warm up.

 

[Bébert81]

We live in Manchester ☔️☔️☔️☔️

Argh!