White eyes

[Anthony P]

Yeah, I understand all of that, but comparing what adult sulcatas do, or Russian Tortoises, isn't helping. Most breeders keep these species in groups of 30 or more as hatchlings and have countless healthy offspring to show for it.

I am all for being cautious, but don't waste the OP's time with rules and make them feel bad for the 10 things they are doing "wrong" when there are a few important items at play that actually matter in this instance.

I agree that right now separating is important, as cmac3 stated, because the sulcata is already sick, not because "different species shouldn't be kept together."

 

[Master_Roshi]

The basking spot is 90 the warm side is 85 and the cool side is 75 night temp is 80, right now since it got warmer and the sun came out I put them outside for a while

 

[JoesMum]

Yeah, I understand all of that, but comparing what adult sulcatas do, or Russian Tortoises, isn't helping. Most breeders keep these species in groups of 30 or more as hatchlings and have countless healthy offspring to show for it.

I am all for being cautious, but don't waste the OP's time with rules and make them feel bad for the 10 things they are doing "wrong" when there are a few important items at play that actually matter in this instance.

I agree that right now separating is important, as cmac3 stated, because the sulcata is already sick, not because "different species shouldn't be kept together."

My original comments on this thread from the start have been about the necessity to correct the environment these torts live in. Have you read them?

My reason for separating them is because two torts do not live together successfully and the size difference of these species means that bullying is a very real risk. Groups of 3 or more in a very large outdoor enclosure may succeed, but in a tiny indoor enclosure it is asking for trouble. Sickness of one is also an obvious reason for separation, I agree; this is not only because of the risk of cross infection bit also because in such a situation the strong is likely to take advantage of the weak... Ironically switching the Leo and Sullie's positions.

Now I am quitting justifying myself to you as that is taking this thread off topic. Apologies OP

Back to look at those temps

 

[JoesMum]

The basking spot is 90 the warm side is 85 and the cool side is 75 night temp is 80, right now since it got warmer and the sun came out I put them outside for a while

Basking needs to be 95-100F. You can achieve this by ensuring that their is no obstruction between the bulb and the substrate, including that mesh. And then you may need to lower the lamp slightly closer to the substrate

You should have overall temperatures a little higher. Maybe 80-85F

These little guys are too small for outdoor time right now.

They each need a properly setup indoor enclosure (no coil UVB )

The substrate needs to be damp and the enclosure needs something to close it in to hold in the heat and humidity. Tinfoil can be used as long as it doesn't touch the light fittings.

A temperature gun type thermometer is best for accurately measuring spot temperatures in the enclosure. They're inexpensive from hardware stores and Amazon

 

[Master_Roshi]

When I only had the sulcata, I used to have the lights about 6 inches off the basking spot so it would be 100F but he would never stay on the basking spot so I raised the lights and lowered the temps, I contacted the pet shop where I bought it and they said the eyes could have been because of the calcium powder I feed it but I think it could have been the lighting too or the coconut fiber substrate, what do you think?

 

[Master_Roshi]

I put my sulcata outside 30 min ago I went to check on it and it had foamed and it was running around

 

[JoesMum]

When I only had the sulcata, I used to have the lights about 6 inches off the basking spot so it would be 100F but he would never stay on the basking spot so I raised the lights and lowered the temps, I contacted the pet shop where I bought it and they said the eyes could have been because of the calcium powder I feed it but I think it could have been the lighting too or the coconut fiber substrate, what do you think?

The immediate obvious option is to take out the UVB and eliminate that as a problem.

Coco fiber is a very popular and successful substrate, but it must not be dry. Substrate needs to be an earthy type that you can make damp by tipping in water from a jug and then mixing with your hands so all of it is evenly damp. Fine grade orchid bark is also popular.

Six inches is too close for the basking lamp. It suggests either your thermometer cannot be trusted or you need a higher wattage bulb. What does your thermometer look like?

Your tort's diet (both of them) is weedy leafy greens. They will graduate to grass. They cannot digest sugars properly - it causes digestive and kidney problems - so fruit, tomato, bell pepper and carrot should only be fed very sparingly and very occasionally if at all.

A tiny pinch of calcium powder sprinkled on food 3 times a week is the most they need. You can overdo it.

As for the pet store: few have staff who have up to date, or even any, knowledge of keeping tortoises. You will do much better to set up your enclosures the way Tom says in that thread I linked. He has decades of experience with these species and has written those threads so others don't have to make the mistakes he did.

 

[JoesMum]

I put my sulcata outside 30 min ago I went to check on it and it had foamed and it was running around

Foaming suggests it got too hot.

Find a flat bottomed bowl with high sides that your tort can't see over or through; a washing up bowl is ideal. Put enough warm water in to come just up over the join between the plastron and the shell and soak this tort.

It needs to soak for at least 30 minutes. Change the water if necessary

 

[Master_Roshi]

Ok I'll get to it Joe's mum

 

[Anthony P]

My original comments on this thread from the start have been about the necessity to correct the environment these torts live in. Have you read them?

My reason for separating them is because two torts do not live together successfully and the size difference of these species means that bullying is a very real risk. Groups of 3 or more in a very large outdoor enclosure may succeed, but in a tiny indoor enclosure it is asking for trouble. Sickness of one is also an obvious reason for separation, I agree; this is not only because of the risk of cross infection bit also because in such a situation the strong is likely to take advantage of the weak... Ironically switching the Leo and Sullie's positions.

Now I am quitting justifying myself to you as that is taking this thread off topic. Apologies OP

Back to look at those temps

Noted ;-)

 

[Master_Roshi]

Ok he's all done and he's opening his eyes more, however not completely open yet. Which uvb bulb brand do you guys recommend?how close should the reflector some be from the enclosure?

 

[JoesMum]

Ok he's all done and he's opening his eyes more, however not completely open yet. Which uvb bulb brand do you guys recommend?how close should the reflector some be from the enclosure?

Distance depends on the bulb. It should say on the packet for the fluorescent tube.

Make sure you soak both these tortoises (separately) for at least 20 minutes every morning. This is important when they're babies.

I'm the wrong side of the Atlantic Ocean to recommend brands unfortunately. Also it's 10.30pm here, so I shall say goodnight. I'll revisit this tomorrow

 

[Master_Roshi]

Ok thanks for the help

 

[ZEROPILOT]

This type of florescent, a tube will provide UVB and will not harm the eyes.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

I put my sulcata outside 30 min ago I went to check on it and it had foamed and it was running around

Sunlight is great. Too hot in the sunlight can kill quickly.
Placing an animal in a glass enclosure in the sun can quickly kill your tortoise.
If you place one in the sun, use a plastic tub or something non reflective and always provide shade and water.

 

[Master_Roshi]

I'll get that light tomorrow zeropilot, and do you think this could be contagious to my leopard tortoise? I separated them but they're still next to each other

 

[JoesMum]

I'll get that light tomorrow zeropilot, and do you think this could be contagious to my leopard tortoise? I separated them but they're still next to each other

If the cause of the eye problem is the UVB then your other tort won't catch it from the Sulcata. Obviously it could still be affected by coil UVB at a later date.

The thing is that we don't know what has caused the problem yet, or whether there's anything else wrong with the Sulcata.

So they must be kept entirely separately. That's two separate enclosures with lights for each, not just dividing the one you have in half as that would be far too small and you can't share a basking lamp.

When you handle them you must take great care with hygiene, washing your hands and using separate or carefully cleaned equipment, to make sure you minimise the risk of transferring anything from one to the other.

Just so you know: When people keep herds of same-species tortoises, there should always be a quarantine period of at least 6 months before introducing any new tortoise to the herd. This gives any sickness or parasites present in the new tortoise to become obvious ... and likewise if there's anything brewing in members of the herd it gives that time to emerge too. A new tortoise should never be introduced without quarantine.

 

[Master_Roshi]

Yes I already separated them, I didn't in the past because they come from the same petstore where they shared a tank

 

[Master_Roshi]

I got them this because the tubes were too expensive, what do you guys think?

 

[JoesMum]

I got them this because the tubes were too expensive, what do you guys think?

That's a compact CFL bulb that we see causing eye problems time and again. Don't use it.