Tortoise Table Materials

[Ben Page]

I'm looking to build a tortoise table and was wondering what is the best material to use? I'm considering using melamine but I wasn't sure if it would be dangerous to my tortoise. My other thought was to use a solid wood bookcase and coat the wood where my substrate will be. I would probably use fish grade pond liner for this but I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!

 

[Yvonne G]

I've made three tables out of regular plywood. They've been in use a couple years now with no adverse effects to the babies within. One is for leopards, one is for Manouria and the third is for YF. All three are lined with heavy plastic before adding the moist substrate.

 

[Alexio]

I'm looking to build a tortoise table and was wondering what is the best material to use? I'm considering using melamine but I wasn't sure if it would be dangerous to my tortoise. My other thought was to use a solid wood bookcase and coat the wood where my substrate will be. I would probably use fish grade pond liner for this but I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!

You can use melamine but oh man is it heavy. I recommend pvc board, it can usually be found at home depot and is sold in 4*8 sheets. Its resistant to moisture and mold and is much lighter than melamine. You could also use a liner but if it is sealed properly and caulked you could probably get away with out one.

 

[swatsx]

I made a table out of wood, it was used outside (I have a dog and lots of little wild critters so I didn't want to risk a pen on the ground) anyway it lasted one season and is looking good. But I ended up getting a 300 gallon trough off craigslist for cheap. I can't wait it's 8ft x 3 feet with 2 foot sides , should last long just some paint and a lid I'll post pics ones it's done but just and idea

 

[Tom]

I use plywood and 2x4s for my builds.

What species and size tortoise?

 

[Geeg]

Tom, do you weatherproof the plywood and 2x4's prior to building?? My wood box will be outdoors and we get quite as bit of rain in the Summertime. Trying to get ideas for how to properly weatherproof the wood for the new enclosure I am wanting to build for my RT.

Thank you!

 

[Ben Page]

I use plywood and 2x4s for my builds.

What species and size tortoise?

A Russian full size

 

[Tom]

Tom, do you weatherproof the plywood and 2x4's prior to building?? My wood box will be outdoors and we get quite as bit of rain in the Summertime. Trying to get ideas for how to properly weatherproof the wood for the new enclosure I am wanting to build for my RT.

Thank you!

For my outdoor tortoise boxes, I just prime and paint the outside. I would think priming and painting would work well for an outdoor open tortoise table too.

 

[Tom]

A Russian full size

I think using a full size sheet of plywood with some 2x4s for framing and support will be easier, better and cheaper than using a bookcase by the time you are all done with it.

 

[Ben Page]

I was in a local Goodwill and they had a solid wood entertainment center, 6' x 4' x 2' high for $18. I am going to cut a sheet of plywood for the bottom for support. I will likely use fish pond liner to waterproof. I just need to figure out the screens for the top and it is all set. I'm now researching the lighting and plants. I want to have everything complete before we bring him home.

 

[Ben Page]

@Tom I have been scouring these threads for lighting sources. I have read many of your threads and I want to make sure I have a good start point. It sounds like I can use lights and fixtures from my local home improvement center and just use the UVB light from the pet store. My thinking is I will get a fixture with an 48" UVB Reptisun 10.0 and an separate fixture with a 5000k 48" bulb. I will place these on opposite sides of the enclosure lengthwise. We keep our home at 72 degrees year round so I do not believe that nighttime heating will be needed. If so, I will add an CHE. My main questions is in regards to the basking light. Do you use an halogen spot light for this? I am having a hard time finding anything of significant wattage here, everyone only has LED spot lights. I am thinking I can use a higher wattage heat lamp bulb along with a rheostat to adjust the temp. My lights will be approximately 18" above the substrate. I want to make sure I have a solid start and will tweak the lighting once it is all setup if needed.

 

[Tom]

@Tom I have been scouring these threads for lighting sources. I have read many of your threads and I want to make sure I have a good start point. It sounds like I can use lights and fixtures from my local home improvement center and just use the UVB light from the pet store. My thinking is I will get a fixture with an 48" UVB Reptisun 10.0 and an separate fixture with a 5000k 48" bulb. I will place these on opposite sides of the enclosure lengthwise. We keep our home at 72 degrees year round so I do not believe that nighttime heating will be needed. If so, I will add an CHE. My main questions is in regards to the basking light. Do you use an halogen spot light for this? I am having a hard time finding anything of significant wattage here, everyone only has LED spot lights. I am thinking I can use a higher wattage heat lamp bulb along with a rheostat to adjust the temp. My lights will be approximately 18" above the substrate. I want to make sure I have a solid start and will tweak the lighting once it is all setup if needed.

All sounds good except the spot bulb. Don't use a spot. Use a flood for basking heat. I use 65 watt flood bulbs and adjust the height to get the correct temperature under them. No reason you can't use a 150 and run it through a rheostat to control the temp under it.

You florescent lighting strategy sounds great, and I agree that you won't need night heat. Just be aware the the 10.0 tube will have to be between 10-12" to be an effective UV source. At 18" it will light up the enclosure nicely, but there won't be any UV benefit at that distance. You might consider an HO type bulb for that distance. I get them here: http://www.lightyourreptiles.com

 

[Ben Page]

All sounds good except the spot bulb. Don't use a spot. Use a flood for basking heat. I use 65 watt flood bulbs and adjust the height to get the correct temperature under them. No reason you can't use a 150 and run it through a rheostat to control the temp under it.

You florescent lighting strategy sounds great, and I agree that you won't need night heat. Just be aware the the 10.0 tube will have to be between 10-12" to be an effective UV source. At 18" it will light up the enclosure nicely, but there won't be any UV benefit at that distance. You might consider an HO type bulb for that distance. I get them here: http://www.lightyourreptiles.com

Thank you for the response. It think this is the one I should get:
http://www.lightyourreptiles.com/d3...its-all-regular-48-fluorescent-fixtures-sale/

I am thinking this for the basking light:
http://www.lightyourreptiles.com/90-watt-chromalux-halogen-flood-basking-bulb-the-best/

Another option is increasing the amount of substrate to get it to within 12"

 

[Ben Page]

I am actually thinking this is better after going to the Arcadia site:

http://www.lightyourreptiles.com/arcadia-d3-t-5-46-inch-54-watt-12-desert-uvb-in-stock/

 

[Tom]

I am actually thinking this is better after going to the Arcadia site:

http://www.lightyourreptiles.com/arcadia-d3-t-5-46-inch-54-watt-12-desert-uvb-in-stock/

I have two of those. Be careful without a meter. Those make A LOT of UV. Were talking mid day, full summer sun levels of UV. Its too much to run all day. I set mine on timers to only run for about 3-4 hours mid day to somewhat simulate the mid day UV spike that happens outside.

I wouldn't mount one of those any closer than 20-22" without a Solarmeter 6.5 to check it with. 2 years later, those bulbs are still making excellent UV.

 

[Ben Page]

I have two of those. Be careful without a meter. Those make A LOT of UV. Were talking mid day, full summer sun levels of UV. Its too much to run all day. I set mine on timers to only run for about 3-4 hours mid day to somewhat simulate the mid day UV spike that happens outside.

I wouldn't mount one of those any closer than 20-22" without a Solarmeter 6.5 to check it with. 2 years later, those bulbs are still making excellent UV.

Would the 3-4 hours be sufficient (I'm in Phoenix and will also get him outside several times a week for roaming time in the backyard) or should I go with the D3+ 12% T8 (the first post) left on for 12 hours? I found a T8 shop light fixture that houses two 48" bulbs that I am planning on running 12 hours daily. I will put a 5000k bulb in one and a plant grow light in the other (I'm going to have lots of live plants for him to graze on) so his light levels should be sufficient. I'm concerned with the UVB levels.

 

[Tidgy's Dad]

If he's going to be outside in the sunshine for several hours a week, I don't believe you need an artificial UVB source at all when he's inside.
Just heat and light.

 

[Tom]

Would the 3-4 hours be sufficient (I'm in Phoenix and will also get him outside several times a week for roaming time in the backyard) or should I go with the D3+ 12% T8 (the first post) left on for 12 hours? I found a T8 shop light fixture that houses two 48" bulbs that I am planning on running 12 hours daily. I will put a 5000k bulb in one and a plant grow light in the other (I'm going to have lots of live plants for him to graze on) so his light levels should be sufficient. I'm concerned with the UVB levels.

I agree with Adam that if your tortoise is going to be getting regular sunshine, then he doesn't need indoor UV at all. The T8 UV bulb and the 5000K bulb should both be fine, but I wouldn't use a plant growth bulb over a reptile.

 

[Ben Page]

I agree with Adam that if your tortoise is going to be getting regular sunshine, then he doesn't need indoor UV at all. The T8 UV bulb and the 5000K bulb should both be fine, but I wouldn't use a plant growth bulb over a reptile.

This is good info to have. I started working on the table and decided that it would be better to mount the lights inside the cage so that I can cover it with screening because of the cat. This will put the lighting closer to 12" from the substrate and allow for a more solid mount for the lights. Since he will be getting outside time if I went with a T8 bulb, a reflector (http://www.lightyourreptiles.com/arcadia-t8-48-lamp-reflector/) and a 5000K bulb in a standard two bulb shop light fixture will that be enough? Light your reptiles has both a 6% and 12% bulb, which should I get? I will also use the basking light on a rheostat that I referenced earlier.

 

[Tom]

This is good info to have. I started working on the table and decided that it would be better to mount the lights inside the cage so that I can cover it with screening because of the cat. This will put the lighting closer to 12" from the substrate and allow for a more solid mount for the lights. Since he will be getting outside time if I went with a T8 bulb, a reflector (http://www.lightyourreptiles.com/arcadia-t8-48-lamp-reflector/) and a 5000K bulb in a standard two bulb shop light fixture will that be enough? Light your reptiles has both a 6% and 12% bulb, which should I get? I will also use the basking light on a rheostat that I referenced earlier.

Every enclosure is different. Arcadia makes good products and I'll bet that at 12", the 12% bulb will be making really strong UV. You'd need to put a meter under it to check. In your situation, since your tortoise will be getting real sunshine for most of every year, I'd be inclined to go with the 6% bulb. The 12% might be too strong. Ask the guy at Lightyoureptiles. He generally gives good advice and is helpful. He knows his products well. I'm just guessing from afar.

Here is the meter I use recommend:
https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html