Tortoise beak health- help!

[Pingpong the Tort]

Hello

I have recently noticed a change in the shape of my 3 year old male tortoises beak. One the left hand side it appears the beak is decaying or damaged in some way. He is eating fine and not showing any weight loss and is still active.

I noticed it about 4 weeks ago and have been to see a vet who (after saying rarely saw tortoises and didn't know much about them!) suggested it could be bacterial/fungal stomatitis and recommended a culture/sensitivity swab.

I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this in their tortoise and if they would recommend a test as they are very expensive (not that I would not pay- just want opinion from the tortoise forum)

Pictures attached.

Any advice much appreciated.

 

[Ida]

Very nice lookin fella! Sorry I can't help you but I'm sure some of the more experience here will step in. Good luck

 

[Yvonne G]

It's just like a fingernail - they chip off sometimes. Nothing to worry about. I'd be more worried that the carapace is pyramided. Russian tortoises don't pyramid very readily. I think you need to re-read the care sheets and make any necessary adjustments to your husbandry.

Are you providing calcium? And does the tortoise ever get real sunshine? If not, does he have a good UVB light? Calcium won't work without UVB (without calcium the bones, shell, beak, etc. are weak).

 

[Yvonne G]

That last post, when I re-read it, sounds sort of sharp. I don't mean it that way. Sorry if I came across accusatory. Not my intention at all.

 

[Pingpong the Tort]

Hi Yvonne and Ida, thank you for your comments. Very good to know it is nothing serious to worry about.

I keep him inside during the winter and he has a UV light and heat lights. In the summer he is in a outdoor enclosure. I will up the calcium intake as you suggest. I feed them (I have another male too kept in separate enclosure) a mix of leafy greens/lettuce, apple, sweet pot, pepper, tomatoes etc. Is there anything else I can give to give to get as much calcium in their diet as possible? I have always thought his shell was a bit more pyramided than my other tort.

Can you also recommend on hibernation? I have read many conflicting reviews on whether to hibernate at a young age. My partner wants to hibernate them to replicate natural behavior etc, but I am worried as I have read it is best to hibernate them past the age of about 5 when mortality risk is lower.

Thanks

 

[russian/sulcata/tortoise]

i would take all the fruit out of his diet, most of his diet should be nontoxic weeds and some lettuces. do you have a yard to get weeds from?

 

[russian/sulcata/tortoise]

also can you post some pics of his enclosure?

 

[Yellow Turtle01]

I don't hibernate, period, with any of my guys,and they all (expect one!) would naturally hibernate in the wild, and I'll bet at least 2 have done so before! They don't mind (except at this time of year, I've noticed the turtles have slowed down, and mr russian has slowed down, and of course sulcata's don't ever hibernate sooo... ) and I don't mind, because I eel like there are sooo many more risks than the pat off... which is what, exactly? I've heard hibernation is a go if you're breeding, but other than that... convenience? Replicating natural habits? And if so, than your would have already hibernated in the wild. (at three....)
He is a little pyramided! Try upping the humidity to 70-80%... and soaks every day. Moist soil helps bunches with keeping the humidity stable.

 

[Pingpong the Tort]

I only give small amounts of the fruit etc and not every day. I have grown dandelions for them and will do so again this year but don't have anywhere where I can get weeds from (I have a patio and no grass, but in the summer make the torts an enclosure with a turfed area).

This is a picture of the enclosures. UV light hangs over both enclosures and food goes on the blue plates in bottom left hand corners.

I soak them for about 20 mins each day/every other day and let them out of the enclosures for a run around the kitchen floor most days.

 

[johnsonnboswell]

Please don't get defensive, all advice is simply aimed at helping. So please just don't offer any more fruit from now on. Sometimes beaks break, as others have said. Sometimes they are fragile due to less than optimal health, the way our fingernails and hair reflect our health, or mammals fur does. I would not hibernate this year.

 

[Pingpong the Tort]

Hello

Apologies if my last message came across as defensive I did not mean it to and I greatly appreciate all advise offered. I am simply trying to give you a good a picture as possible on how I care for him.

All advise is very welcome.

 

[russian/sulcata/tortoise]

Hello

Apologies if my last message came across as defensive I did not mean it to and I greatly appreciate all advise offered. I am simply trying to give you a good a picture as possible on how I care for him.

All advise is very welcome.

lol i didnt see how you last message was offensive!

 

[mijojr]

What is your substrate and cage size? Also, to bump up the humidity to help on pyramiding you can cover his enclosure with a clear shower curtain, tough plastic, etc.