Sleepy Russian that refuses to eat

Julie Sanchez

New Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Messages
10
Hi everyone,

I have a baby russian tortoise that refuses any food. We got him on Friday and he hasn't eaten since Saturday morning. (I fed him spring mix sprinkled with tortoise hay).

I originally had a coil UVB bulb in his enclosure but then discovered that they can be dangerous, I removed the bulb and replaced with a 100W Mercury Vapor Bulb (both heat and UV). Lights are 12 inches from the substrate - enclosure is 24" by 54", indoor. The warm end stays around 85 and 90 degrees F, humidity is between 30 and 50% in the enclosure. There is another ceramic fixture toward the middle of the enclosure that has a regular (NOT UVB) bulb in it, per the breeders advice. I have given him 35 minute baths daily.

I have read lots of advice on the forum and I will try the baby food carrot bath for him. I am very afraid the use of that UVB coil bulb damaged him....any ideas on how to stimulate his appetite? Someone on here said you can feed them cilantro? I wonder if the strong scent would entice him?

THanks everyone!
 

Jodie

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
4,359
Location (City and/or State)
Spokane Valley WA
Soaking may help. If the bulb caused problems it should get better now. Does he have a basking area that is 95 to 100F? Usually if they aren't eating it's not warm enough. It also may just take a few days to settle in. Double check your temps, give a nice long soak n try to leave him alone.
 

Gillian M

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2014
Messages
15,417
Location (City and/or State)
Jordan
It does take torts quite a lot of time to get used to a new place. PATIENCE is what yo need here.

And a very warm welcome to the forum.
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
63,264
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
Basking area directly under the bulb should be 95-100.

What is the overnight low? Are you using any night heat?

What substrate are you using? Is it damp?

I would skip the hay for a baby. They are not grass eaters. Grass hay is an okay way to add fiber to grocery store foods later on, but it might be enough to put a baby off, unless the breeder was feeding them that and they are used to it.

Here are some food suggestions:
Mulberry leaves
Grape vine leaves
Hibiscus leaves
African hibiscus leaves
Blue hibiscus leaves
Rose of Sharon leaves
Rose leaves
Geraniums
Gazanias
Lavatera
Pansies
Petunias
Hostas
Honeysuckle
Cape honeysuckle
Leaves and blooms from any squash plant, like pumpkin, cucumber, summer squash, etc...
Young spineless opuntia cactus pads

Weeds:
There are soooooooo many...
Dandelion
Mallow
Filaree
Smooth Sow thistle
Prickly Sow thistle
Milk thistle
Goat head weed
Cats ear
Nettles
Trefoil
Wild onion
Wild mustard
Wild Garlic
Clovers
Broadleaf plantain
Narrow leaf plantain
Chick weed
Hawksbit
Hensbit
Hawksbeard

Other good stuff:
"Testudo Seed Mix" from http://www.tortoisesupply.com/SeedMixes
Pasture mixes or other seeds from http://www.groworganic.com/seeds.html
Homegrown alfalfa
Mazuri Tortoise Chow
ZooMed Grassland Tortoise Food
 

Julie Sanchez

New Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Messages
10
It does take torts quite a lot of time to get used to a new place. PATIENCE is what yo need here.

And a very warm welcome to the forum.

I am fine to be patient as long as it is normal and there isn't something else I should be doing. Others have posted that if the tortoise acts as mine is, then it is very ill....so conflicting info is tough when you are a first time tortoise owner.
 

Julie Sanchez

New Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Messages
10
Basking area directly under the bulb should be 95-100.

What is the overnight low? Are you using any night heat?

What substrate are you using? Is it damp?

I would skip the hay for a baby. They are not grass eaters. Grass hay is an okay way to add fiber to grocery store foods later on, but it might be enough to put a baby off, unless the breeder was feeding them that and they are used to it.

Here are some food suggestions:
Mulberry leaves
Grape vine leaves
Hibiscus leaves
African hibiscus leaves
Blue hibiscus leaves
Rose of Sharon leaves
Rose leaves
Geraniums
Gazanias
Lavatera
Pansies
Petunias
Hostas
Honeysuckle
Cape honeysuckle
Leaves and blooms from any squash plant, like pumpkin, cucumber, summer squash, etc...
Young spineless opuntia cactus pads

Weeds:
There are soooooooo many...
Dandelion
Mallow
Filaree
Smooth Sow thistle
Prickly Sow thistle
Milk thistle
Goat head weed
Cats ear
Nettles
Trefoil
Wild onion
Wild mustard
Wild Garlic
Clovers
Broadleaf plantain
Narrow leaf plantain
Chick weed
Hawksbit
Hensbit
Hawksbeard

Other good stuff:
"Testudo Seed Mix" from http://www.tortoisesupply.com/SeedMixes
Pasture mixes or other seeds from http://www.groworganic.com/seeds.html
Homegrown alfalfa
Mazuri Tortoise Chow
ZooMed Grassland Tortoise Food

I am not using night heat - over night low is around 70 to 75 degrees. Cypress mulch is the substrate and I mist it once a day to keep it moist. The tortoise hay I am giving him is not actually hay - it's a combination of dried weeds, herbs and plants. It has several that you listed above and it smells good. He is used to eating it as the breeder was feeding it to him. I also have the Mazuri chow...which would be great if he would eat! Lol! All joking aside, I feel that I am well prepared to give him a healthy diet. I don't know how long he can go without eating...but according to this forum, this seems relatively normal?
 

Gillian M

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2014
Messages
15,417
Location (City and/or State)
Jordan
I am fine to be patient as long as it is normal and there isn't something else I should be doing. Others have posted that if the tortoise acts as mine is, then it is very ill....so conflicting info is tough when you are a first time tortoise owner.
I do not mean to put you down, BUT you are going to hear conflicting info all the time. When I receive conflicting info, I apply what I think best suits my tort.
 

Julie Sanchez

New Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Messages
10
I do not mean to put you down, BUT you are going to hear conflicting info all the time. When I receive conflicting info, I apply what I think best suits my tort.
Of course - that's obvious, but it does kind of make the forum pointless if correct info isn't given. Once your experienced, it is easy "to know what's best" but we all have to learn. I guarantee there is plenty you still have to learn as well.
 

Julie Sanchez

New Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Messages
10
Soaking may help. If the bulb caused problems it should get better now. Does he have a basking area that is 95 to 100F? Usually if they aren't eating it's not warm enough. It also may just take a few days to settle in. Double check your temps, give a nice long soak n try to leave him alone.
Ok I will do. THanks for taking the time to respond so thoughtfully and kindly. Some on this thread are not so friendly, so I really appreciate it!
 

keepergale

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Messages
761
Location (City and/or State)
san diego
How are you measuring the temperatures? Temperature guns do real good job. Those round stick on thermometers are pretty worthless. Also make sure your temperature is accurate at ground level where your tortoise is at.
 

Julie Sanchez

New Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Messages
10
How are you measuring the temperatures? Temperature guns do real good job. Those round stick on thermometers are pretty worthless. Also make sure your temperature is accurate at ground level where your tortoise is at.
Ok Thanks...where can I get a temperature gun? I haven't seen them at pet stores...maybe a hardware store?
 

Gillian M

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2014
Messages
15,417
Location (City and/or State)
Jordan
Of course - that's obvious, but it does kind of make the forum pointless if correct info isn't given. Once your experienced, it is easy "to know what's best" but we all have to learn. I guarantee there is plenty you still have to learn as well.
I do see your point, but I don't think there'd be any other choice.
 

leigti

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2013
Messages
7,026
Location (City and/or State)
southeast Washington
Ok Thanks...where can I get a temperature gun? I haven't seen them at pet stores...maybe a hardware store?
Yes, hardware stores or Amazon. You can also get them on certain websites for tortoises, I think I've seen them at LLL reptile.com and tortoise supply.com.
 

leigti

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2013
Messages
7,026
Location (City and/or State)
southeast Washington
Can you post a picture of your enclosure and tortoise? Then people could give more specific suggestions for your situation. I know it is difficult to wade through all the different information sources out there. But this is the best forum to help you raise your tortoise correctly. Focus on just the threads that pertain to your situation, a baby Russian tortoise. Not an adult and not another species. I would put in a ceramic heat emitter for nighttime heat. You will need a thermostat on it and set it to 80°. They need it dark at night but not cold. The substrate should be a little damp but not soggy. Cold temperatures and wet substrate will make your tortoise very sick.
Keep soaking daily like you are. Make sure there are plenty of hides so your tortoise feel secure. It does take time to figure it out but with hatchlings you have much less time to get it right. There is a great thread at the top of the Russian tortoise section that Yvonne wrote about setting up an enclosure for hatchlings.
Keep asking questions and like I said please post a picture of the enclosure. Sometimes we come across as critical and picky but we all mean well and we want your tortoise to thrive.
 

leigti

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2013
Messages
7,026
Location (City and/or State)
southeast Washington
Oh, I would suggest skipping the cilantro. Tortoises don't seem to like strong tasting herbs very much. At least mine never have and I've heard other people say the same thing. And sometimes a tortoise will not eat a new food item the first few times they see it. So feed it a few days in a row. And mix it well was something they will eat.
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
63,264
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
I am not using night heat - over night low is around 70 to 75 degrees. Cypress mulch is the substrate and I mist it once a day to keep it moist. The tortoise hay I am giving him is not actually hay - it's a combination of dried weeds, herbs and plants. It has several that you listed above and it smells good. He is used to eating it as the breeder was feeding it to him. I also have the Mazuri chow...which would be great if he would eat! Lol! All joking aside, I feel that I am well prepared to give him a healthy diet. I don't know how long he can go without eating...but according to this forum, this seems relatively normal?

The herbal hay is good stuff, but it works best when mixed with chopped up greens. Weeds are best, but if that is not currently practical, get some spring mix, endive, escarole, etc…

It is NOT normal for a baby tortoise to go days without eating, especially if it is being offered foods that it is already accustomed to.

Those could bulbs can sometimes cause this, but hopefully, if that is your issue, his eyes will heal. Some baby food soaks will likely help in your case.
 

Yvonne G

Old Timer
TFO Admin
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 23, 2008
Messages
93,389
Location (City and/or State)
Clovis, CA
Try chopping up some endive and escarole into tiny pieces, then soak your herbal hay until its soft. Mix the greens and the softened hay all together.

Another trick with baby tortoises is to pile the food at the mouth of the hiding place, put the baby by the food then quickly step out of sight.
 

Julie Sanchez

New Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Messages
10
Can you post a picture of your enclosure and tortoise? Then people could give more specific suggestions for your situation. I know it is difficult to wade through all the different information sources out there. But this is the best forum to help you raise your tortoise correctly. Focus on just the threads that pertain to your situation, a baby Russian tortoise. Not an adult and not another species. I would put in a ceramic heat emitter for nighttime heat. You will need a thermostat on it and set it to 80°. They need it dark at night but not cold. The substrate should be a little damp but not soggy. Cold temperatures and wet substrate will make your tortoise very sick.
Keep soaking daily like you are. Make sure there are plenty of hides so your tortoise feel secure. It does take time to figure it out but with hatchlings you have much less time to get it right. There is a great thread at the top of the Russian tortoise section that Yvonne wrote about setting up an enclosure for hatchlings.
Keep asking questions and like I said please post a picture of the enclosure. Sometimes we come across as critical and picky but we all mean well and we want your tortoise to thrive.
Thanks so much! I will check out the thread about hatchlings...thanks again...I will try to post pics soon but i think I need a more accurate temp gauge also.
 

Julie Sanchez

New Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Messages
10
Can you post a picture of your enclosure and tortoise? Then people could give more specific suggestions for your situation. I know it is difficult to wade through all the different information sources out there. But this is the best forum to help you raise your tortoise correctly. Focus on just the threads that pertain to your situation, a baby Russian tortoise. Not an adult and not another species. I would put in a ceramic heat emitter for nighttime heat. You will need a thermostat on it and set it to 80°. They need it dark at night but not cold. The substrate should be a little damp but not soggy. Cold temperatures and wet substrate will make your tortoise very sick.
Keep soaking daily like you are. Make sure there are plenty of hides so your tortoise feel secure. It does take time to figure it out but with hatchlings you have much less time to get it right. There is a great thread at the top of the Russian tortoise section that Yvonne wrote about setting up an enclosure for hatchlings.
Keep asking questions and like I said please post a picture of the enclosure. Sometimes we come across as critical and picky but we all mean well and we want your tortoise to thrive.

Ok so here are the pics...the end with the rock is the warm end that has a heat bulb..it seems to be staying around 100 degrees directly below the lamp. I raised the height of the lamp because it was too intense when lower.. The middle lamp is the mercury vapor bulb...I know this bulb also produces heat but only enough to keep the temp right below it at 80 - 85 degrees. (Before I had a regular bulb in the middle and the mercury vapor on the warm end but it wasn't staying warm enough). I have read that many people put a lid over the enclosure to retain moisture but the breeder I purchased him from recommended that I not do that due to the risk of mold/shell rot. The substrate is cypress mulch, recommended by the breeder, for its ability to retain moisture. I have been misting it twice a day in addition to soaking the tortoise daily. I don't mind you being critical or picky as long as it is constructive.DSCN1796.JPG DSCN1799.JPG DSCN1800.JPG DSCN1801.JPG .
I am new at this and appreciate advice from well - intended, experienced tortoise owners. Thanks again!
 

New Posts

Top