Russian not very active - Large enclosure

[CraigIN]

Hello Everyone! My RT hasn't been very active lately. Temps are between 95-100 in the basking area and around 75 degrees everywhere else. He soaks and eats well but always ends up hiding later. This is an older picture but the enclosure size is the same. I've added some plant and timothy hay for extra hiding. He basically comes out to eat, bask for about 10 minutes and then hides again. Humidity is around 35-40% during the day. The hygrometer says it gets up to around 60% at night. I'm guessing that's about the ambient humidity in my house when the AC is on. I have the vent closed though. He eats a lot and I soak daily. Pooping and urates look good. It's still super hot here in Indiana (90s) so I take him out as much as possible to explore. He is more active outside but then finds a place to hide about 20 minutes in.

How can I make him more active? At this point, I don't get to see him very often.

BTW - the dimensions are 7 feet at it's longest and 2.5 ft wide.

 

[Taylor T.]

Normally around this time of year, Russian tortoises would be slowing down for the winter. Unless you are planning on hibernating him, you may want to make it a little brighter in there, and leave his lights on for longer during the day. It may seem a little mean to not let him sleep when he wants to, but try taking him out of his hide every once in a while and placing him in his basking spot.

I notice you are using a red heat bulb. These bulbs can make the substrate look red to him, and he may eat the substrate thinking that it is food. Are you using a coil type UVB bulb? These do not produce effective UVB and can be harmful to their eyes. Also, those clamps on the lamp fixtures sometimes fail and can start a fire. It is much better to hang them from a chain or its own cord.

 

[CraigIN]

Normally around this time of year, Russian tortoises would be slowing down for the winter. Unless you are planning on hibernating him, you may want to make it a little brighter in there, and leave his lights on for longer during the day. It may seem a little mean to not let him sleep when he wants to, but try taking him out of his hide every once in a while and placing him in his basking spot.

I notice you are using a red heat bulb. These bulbs can make the substrate look red to him, and he may eat the substrate thinking that it is food. Are you using a coil type UVB bulb? These do not produce effective UVB and can be harmful to their eyes. Also, those clamps on the lamp fixtures sometimes fail and can start a fire. It is much better to hang them from a chain or its own cord.

I'm using this UVB bulb: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-repti...VDAtpCh1wsAx6EAQYASABEgL9KfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

In regards to the red bulb, I had no clue! I think I will buy an MVB for that housing then. In regards to the clamp fixture as well, I will definitely replace that to one I can screw in to the wood.

 

[Taylor T.]

Yes, that is a 'loop' type bulb, which is the same as a coil bulb. Here is a thread written by @Tom about them:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/coil-type-uv-bulbs-dont-use-them.35247/

The best replacement for the red bulb would be a CHE (ceramic heat emitter). They produce no light, and screw directly into a normal light socket.

 

[CraigIN]

Yes, that is a 'loop' type bulb, which is the same as a coil bulb. Here is a thread written by @Tom about them:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/coil-type-uv-bulbs-dont-use-them.35247/

The best replacement for the red bulb would be a CHE (ceramic heat emitter). They produce no light, and screw directly into a normal light socket.

I'll definitely get that - What do you suggest I do with my double bulb setup as currently its a basking lamp and the crap UVB bulb?

 

[teresaf]

You can put a CHE in it too(if it has a ceramic base)...for night heat or leave it empty. Another thing I noticed was the thermometer hygrometer that you're using is the button type that are quite often inaccurate especially in high humidity applications. A lot of us here use this one or ones like it because they have the probe at the end of a long wire so the mechanism doesn't have to be near humidity. That last part doesn't really apply to you since you have an open top table but they are very accurate and dependable for your use. Digital is the way to go.

 

[Taylor T.]

If you get this one, you will have a heater and a good thermometer:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXUT5RH/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

 

[leigti]

In order to keep your enclosure warm enough throughout the winter you are probably going to have to cover it in someway. You could make a basic PVC frame and then put a heavy duty clear shower curtain over it, that's a pretty cheap and easy way.
And if you want to keep your Russian awake or winter you going to have to make the enclosure nice and bright. You can use LED lighting, that doesn't cause much heat. For UVB you could use a mercury vapor bulb or a long fluorescent UVB bulb and then a regular floodlight for the heat part.
A temperature gun is very handy also. All the stuff does not have to cost much and most of it, except the UVB bulb itself, can be found at the local hardware store or Farm store.


I got the light stand from the pet store, it is one of the zoo med large light stands. I hope this helps. You have a decent sized enclosure there. Maybe add some line of sight barriers, some plants, more furniture in general. Then he won't feel so exposed. And the closer will feel bigger.

 

[CraigIN]

UPDATE: I got the MVB bulb and removed the old bad bulb. Also got some more plants. I have an electronics therm/hyg on the way tomorrow. I will be building a custom stand instead of the clamp light as well.

Here is a pic

 

[Maro2Bear]

Since it looks like you have the room, seems like you could easily double the enclosure area...

 

[CraigIN]

The picture is a little deceiving - that is about the whole room. Behind I have my desk for work. Also - if I made that wide on all sides, I wouldn't be able to open my doors. This is plenty large for a horsefield. Now if it was a Sulcata, I would be freaking out! lol. I think it's because it's getting to be winter time...

 

[leigti]

The debate will always go on as to the proper size of an enclosure. For example, I have always heard that bigger is better. I agree to a point. I think you can make the enclosure feel bigger to the tortoise, at least a Russian tortoise, if there are lots of wall lines. For example make in the enclosure in an L shape versus a square. My tortoise doesn't spend much time out in the very middle of the enclosure that likes to hang out near the edges. So I think my Russian tortoise would be happier in a cage 2' x 8' versus 4 x 4. Same amount of square footage but not feeling as roomy as the long skinny one. I hope I making some sort of sense here. Same thing goes with site barriers and furniture etc. if a tortoise can look and see its entire enclosure it's not going to feel nearly as large as if it can't.