Hey. There are lots of ladies with some serious building skills. Don't sell yourself short. Just like any man, you will make mistakes at first and learn as you go. I can guarantee this is not the first enclosure Mark has built.
Our new Closed Chamber for our new group of Tortoises
- Thread starter Markw84
- Start date
Hey. There are lots of ladies with some serious building skills. Don't sell yourself short. Just like any man, you will make mistakes at first and learn as you go. I can guarantee this is not the first enclosure Mark has built.
Odds are, hubby and I will build our permanent indoor table...and it will be functional and fine...but rather rough around the edges...
But my daughter's BF's Dad is a carpenter...and I really really REALLY want to ask him to build us something...lol...it will be a lot nicer.
I just don't want to pester or impose on him...no need to alienate the potential future in-laws...
I might reconsider if/when we get to know them better...so I reserve the right to change my mind...several times...
But my daughter's BF's Dad is a carpenter...and I really really REALLY want to ask him to build us something...lol...it will be a lot nicer.
I just don't want to pester or impose on him...no need to alienate the potential future in-laws...
I might reconsider if/when we get to know them better...so I reserve the right to change my mind...several times...
M
Maggie Cummings
Guest
You do know that Yvonne is my sister, and I see her as often as I can. It's not super often, but I drive right thru Sacramento and surrounding area kinda regularly. Just sayin.....
Yes I had put that together from other posts. I would like to see Yvonne's collection of tortoises sometime too!
I've been asked for a bit more detail on how I actually assembled and painted this enclosure, so thought I would add some detail and layouts for the actual build of this project.
I did not build the frame first, but built each panel, then assembled. Here are the cut layouts and panel detail is used to create my material list and build the actual unit. I use 1/4 plywood that is plugged and sanded. For the bottom piece only, I use 1/2 plywood. All frames are 2x2. The front face frame is 2x4.
The plans do not show the 4 x 9 air vents I built into each side panel for ventilation in the warmer months. I simply framed out a 4 x 9 (inside) rectangle out of 2 x 2's and cut out the foam insulation to go around those vent locations in each side.
Here's my cut sheets for my plywood. 4 sheets of 1/4 and one sheet of 1/2
Here's the build sheet for my panels.
By building the panels first, I could get the insulation board sandwiched between the 1/4 plywood with everything lying flat, then assemble the sides to the bottom piece. I did not insulate the bottom since it has a nice layer of orchid bark that will cover it - so the bottom is a single layer of 1/2 plywood.
I GLUED EVERYTHING and nailed in place with a pneumatic brad nail gun, using 1-1/8 nails. So if you happen to have a nail gun, it makes assembly so easy without having to hold things in place while you pound it with a hammer!
I used 2x4 to make the front face. Simply a 2x4 spanning the entire front, inside the plywood on all sides. I put a 2x4 right in the middle of the front span to break the front into two openings. Because I use swinging doors that fit inside the face frame, I use 1/4 plywood that extends about 3/4" beyond the edge of the 2x4's, creating a lip inside the opening the doors can shut against. This also created an easy way to secure the middle 2x4 spanning from the bottom to top. Here's a detail of the 1/4" back piece for the front face. Remember to keep the top piece of 1/4 plywood down 1-3/4" from the top edge to leave room for the enclosure top panel to slide down in place, since I do not put the top on until after I paint the inside.
I actually did not put the top in place until after I sealed and painted the entire inside for easier access for painting. (including the inside of the top piece) Once the inside was painted, I assembled, then sanded the entire outside to smooth out any variances in how the edges met using a belt sander. With 1/4 plywood, it is easy to smooth out the edges quite quickly that way. I'm a little picky in how things look, so I also use wood filler to fill in any gaps or nicks and gouges in the wood before sealing and painting. For the outside I use a gloss enamel paint. I used Valspar interior/exterior gloss latex enamel.
I also did a lot of research and looking for best paint options for inside. I have fiberglassed some before, but have now ended up using this countertop paint. It is simply Rustoleum's Counter Top paint. I have them tint it to the "haystack" color. I apply a coat of sealer first. I do then caulk all the seams with a paintable waterproof caulk. I apply 2 generous coats of the counter top paint, with a 3rd coat on the bottom and a few inches up the sides. That does make it pretty much waterproof, (although not waterproof to the extent I would use for a turtle enclosure that actually holds water. I use fiberglass for that.) But for this application with the tortoise enclosure, it does great even with the amounts of water I just dump in the enclosure to keep the orchid bark damp.
For doors, I like the look of swinging doors fit inside the face frame. This is the hardest part of the build, so you can just opt for sliding style doors like Tom's build uses. I took the time to make 4 doors with 2x2 frames. I mitered each corner, and then cut two 5/8" blade cuts on each inside side of the frame pieces for the glass panes to fit in. I then sealed and painted each frame piece first! I used window glass cut 3/4" larger than the inside dimensions of each door frame. I have also used acrylic and like both. Acrylic is more expensive, but no breaking problems. Once they're together it's not an issue, but in assembly, you need to take caution with glass. I assembled by sliding the glass panes in while clamping the painted frame pieces frame in place. I glued and doweled each corner. It is VERY important to make your doors AT LEAST 3/8" smaller than the opening the door will fit into. With all the humidity in the enclosure, the door frames will swell. If you make them fit too tight, it will create a problem just trying to get them open. With the lip on the back of the door frames, you will have a nice seal, so don't worry about making the doors fit so tight they will bind. I hang the doors with self closing hinges. Be careful when mounting the hinges to the doors, you do not hit the glass with the screws!
Good luck if you decide to tackle a project like this. Let me know if you have any additional questions. I know it is definitely easier once you've built a few, so feel free to ask. As @Tom had commented earlier - this is not my first attempt! I learned from plenty of mistakes.
I did not build the frame first, but built each panel, then assembled. Here are the cut layouts and panel detail is used to create my material list and build the actual unit. I use 1/4 plywood that is plugged and sanded. For the bottom piece only, I use 1/2 plywood. All frames are 2x2. The front face frame is 2x4.
The plans do not show the 4 x 9 air vents I built into each side panel for ventilation in the warmer months. I simply framed out a 4 x 9 (inside) rectangle out of 2 x 2's and cut out the foam insulation to go around those vent locations in each side.
Here's my cut sheets for my plywood. 4 sheets of 1/4 and one sheet of 1/2
Here's the build sheet for my panels.
By building the panels first, I could get the insulation board sandwiched between the 1/4 plywood with everything lying flat, then assemble the sides to the bottom piece. I did not insulate the bottom since it has a nice layer of orchid bark that will cover it - so the bottom is a single layer of 1/2 plywood.
I GLUED EVERYTHING and nailed in place with a pneumatic brad nail gun, using 1-1/8 nails. So if you happen to have a nail gun, it makes assembly so easy without having to hold things in place while you pound it with a hammer!
I used 2x4 to make the front face. Simply a 2x4 spanning the entire front, inside the plywood on all sides. I put a 2x4 right in the middle of the front span to break the front into two openings. Because I use swinging doors that fit inside the face frame, I use 1/4 plywood that extends about 3/4" beyond the edge of the 2x4's, creating a lip inside the opening the doors can shut against. This also created an easy way to secure the middle 2x4 spanning from the bottom to top. Here's a detail of the 1/4" back piece for the front face. Remember to keep the top piece of 1/4 plywood down 1-3/4" from the top edge to leave room for the enclosure top panel to slide down in place, since I do not put the top on until after I paint the inside.
I actually did not put the top in place until after I sealed and painted the entire inside for easier access for painting. (including the inside of the top piece) Once the inside was painted, I assembled, then sanded the entire outside to smooth out any variances in how the edges met using a belt sander. With 1/4 plywood, it is easy to smooth out the edges quite quickly that way. I'm a little picky in how things look, so I also use wood filler to fill in any gaps or nicks and gouges in the wood before sealing and painting. For the outside I use a gloss enamel paint. I used Valspar interior/exterior gloss latex enamel.
I also did a lot of research and looking for best paint options for inside. I have fiberglassed some before, but have now ended up using this countertop paint. It is simply Rustoleum's Counter Top paint. I have them tint it to the "haystack" color. I apply a coat of sealer first. I do then caulk all the seams with a paintable waterproof caulk. I apply 2 generous coats of the counter top paint, with a 3rd coat on the bottom and a few inches up the sides. That does make it pretty much waterproof, (although not waterproof to the extent I would use for a turtle enclosure that actually holds water. I use fiberglass for that.) But for this application with the tortoise enclosure, it does great even with the amounts of water I just dump in the enclosure to keep the orchid bark damp.
For doors, I like the look of swinging doors fit inside the face frame. This is the hardest part of the build, so you can just opt for sliding style doors like Tom's build uses. I took the time to make 4 doors with 2x2 frames. I mitered each corner, and then cut two 5/8" blade cuts on each inside side of the frame pieces for the glass panes to fit in. I then sealed and painted each frame piece first! I used window glass cut 3/4" larger than the inside dimensions of each door frame. I have also used acrylic and like both. Acrylic is more expensive, but no breaking problems. Once they're together it's not an issue, but in assembly, you need to take caution with glass. I assembled by sliding the glass panes in while clamping the painted frame pieces frame in place. I glued and doweled each corner. It is VERY important to make your doors AT LEAST 3/8" smaller than the opening the door will fit into. With all the humidity in the enclosure, the door frames will swell. If you make them fit too tight, it will create a problem just trying to get them open. With the lip on the back of the door frames, you will have a nice seal, so don't worry about making the doors fit so tight they will bind. I hang the doors with self closing hinges. Be careful when mounting the hinges to the doors, you do not hit the glass with the screws!
Good luck if you decide to tackle a project like this. Let me know if you have any additional questions. I know it is definitely easier once you've built a few, so feel free to ask. As @Tom had commented earlier - this is not my first attempt! I learned from plenty of mistakes.
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I am planning my permanent indoor enclosure...for my one and only Hermann's (for when she's big enough).
For plywood I have used marine paint (oil based) Super tough once it's fully cured (used for our chicken coop - which we hose out and disinfect and which is subject to messy chicken water spills, etc., and on horse jumps, etc.). So I was waffling between that, and trying linseed oil (and also letting it cure fully). Those were my two options...for either a painted - or a natural - look.
Have you tried either one?
I never thought of using counter top paint.
For plywood I have used marine paint (oil based) Super tough once it's fully cured (used for our chicken coop - which we hose out and disinfect and which is subject to messy chicken water spills, etc., and on horse jumps, etc.). So I was waffling between that, and trying linseed oil (and also letting it cure fully). Those were my two options...for either a painted - or a natural - look.
Have you tried either one?
I never thought of using counter top paint.
I'm always afraid of chemicals paint leaches out. So I always tend towards something geared for aquarium/pond use or food safe areas. In an enclosed chamber that stays humid, I just feel safer that way. There's just such limited ventilation in these chambers, I want to be extremely cautious. Even with the countertop paint, I don't close up and use the chamber for at least a 7 days cure/ventilation of the painted surfaces.
Melissa N
Member
Okay, did the inhabitants get to you yet? I don't remember seeing them and they haven't been updated on this thread yet
@Markw84 ???????
Sorry about that! I have posted some pictures of them in other posts, and forgot to update here. I do a bit more later, but for now - here they are at feeding time yesterday.
From Top center clockwise = Betelgeuse, Vega, Mira, Sirius, Rigel
From Top center clockwise = Betelgeuse, Vega, Mira, Sirius, Rigel
Great photograph. Beautiful Tortoises! Thank you. Will forever be impressed with your closed chamber.
That enclosure is beyond beautiful. You did a great Job!! Wow!!
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2013
- Messages
- 149
Love the star names..... Astronomy is my other hobby.
You're the first to comment on that. After all, they are Stars! I loved all the natural sciences. Definitely astronomy. The Burmese are a beautiful example of geometry in nature!
They look beautiful. Hadn't seen them from that angle yet. That top middle one has some really wide stripes there. Mind sharing more pics of that one I'd love to see them.
Markw84.....I am getting ready to build a closed chamber. What brand of food counter top paint did you use? Also, did you paint the entire inide of the chamber? Three coats?..................thanks
Yes, I paint the entire inside of the chamber. Two coats worked well on the last chamber I just finished a few weeks ago. I built it identical to this one and it sits on top of this chamber as I wanted to separate the males from females as they are getting much larger now, and I added 3 more to the group. It is Rustoleum counter top paint. As I mentioned in the original post, it is a food safe paint for countertops that can be used for food prep areas. (My first chamber I built with this method was smaller and done about 18 months ago. I just cleaned and moved it with the completion of my last chamber a few weeks ago, and not a bit of deterioration to the paint surface - with the water poured over the substrate constantly). I do give it a week to totally cure before closing up and using. I Paint the insides before mounting the doors, then paint the outside while it all cures for the week.
Just made me think it would be good to post the current setup so went and took this picture just now...
1st class that Mark. I like it alot.
