I need a tank for a Russian Tortoise?

[0215]

hi I was wondering what size tank i need for an Adult Tortoise so that i don't have to go shopping for another tank when the Russian tortoise i'm getting grows to big for his old one, and if it can be Plexiglass or just plain Glass if i put tape on it to show where the tanks stops. I would also like to know what stuff i would need to make him feel comfortable.
Thnxs

 

[Yvonne G]

Hi "Animal Lover":

Russian tortoises should really be kept outside, with a secondary indoor habitat for bad weather. They need a lot of room to wander, as wandering is hard-wired into their little pea brains. A used 5 shelf book case, laid on its back, shelves removed, lined with plastic, is a good choice. A Christmas tree storage tote by IRIS is also a nice big container for Russians. Its about 4' long. A plastic kiddy pool would be ok. Any of the plastic totes or aquariums are just too darned small.

 

[0215]

Thanks but I forgot to mention that I live in Pittsburgh,PA
And that it would be indoors for most of the year. And thanks for calling me animal lover!!!

 

[TORTOISEMAN1]

Welcome!!

 

[Kristina]

Welcome to the forum!

For an adult Russian, I wouldn't go with anything smaller than 2' X 4', and that really is the minimum.

You can build an enclosure using plexiglass for the front, in a better size and a lot cheaper than buying a 75+ gallon aquarium, and it would work out just fine. You don't necessarily have to put tape or anything on it. As long as your tortoise isn't stressing out, it isn't a problem.

To be comfortable he needs a hide, water dish, heat/UV lamps of the proper temperature/wattage, substrate he can dig into, and a good, varied diet

 

[ALDABRAMAN]

Welcome!

 

[0215]

Thanks!!!
Where can I get the supplies and do I need
A vita-light? I love the help!!! Thanks !!!

 

[Kristina]

You can find all kinds of building materials at stores like Home Depot, Menards, or Lowes.

I'm not sure what a "vita-light" is, but you do need a light bulb that produces UV.

Here is a snip from my tortoise beginners article, it should help you understand what you need and it is easier for me to copy and paste than to type everything out, lol.

Lighting and heat most often go hand in hand. There are two important aspects - warmth and UV exposure. Tortoises need both in order to be healthy and survive. Heat is extremely important. Tortoises are cold-blooded animals that do not produce their own body heat. In order to be active and properly digest their food, they have to be kept warm. This is usually done by providing a basking area that is between 85* and 100*F, with the other areas of the enclosure being cooler. The exact temperature of both your basking site and the ambient temperature of the enclosure will vary from species to species.

For warmth alone, there are a few different options. Regular incandescent light bulbs do provide heat. There are also dedicated basking bulbs made especially for reptiles, but they cost more than a regular incandescent bulb, which can usually be purchased four for $1 at any store. Incandescent blacklight bulbs can be used to provide nighttime heat.

Ceramic heat emitters also provide heat, but no light at all. They can be purchased at pet supply stores in many different wattages. You will often see ceramic heat emitter shortened to CHE. Ceramic heat emitters, as well as incandescent blacklight bulbs are good choices when providing warmth for species that prefer lower levels of light, such as Redfoot and Hingeback tortoises.

Deciding what wattage to use depends mainly on how cool the ambient temperature of your home typically is. If your home remains relatively warm year round, choose a lower wattage, and you can lower the heat source closer as needed to increase temperature in the basking/hide areas.

All heat sources must be well secured to prevent burns and fires. Dome light fixtures, both those that are made especially for reptiles, brooder lamps, or utility lamps can be used. Do not rely on the clamps that often come with these lamps to provide security against lamps falling into the enclosure or on the floor and causing a deadly fire. Lamps should be hung from above, either secured to the ceiling by means of a hook or wire, or attached to a lamp stand. Lamp stands can be purchased from pet supply stores or built yourself of you are handy. Hanging your lamps above the enclosure is important for another reason. In the case of UV lighting, the rays are best utilized by the tortoise if they are coming from directly above the tortoise, rather than on an angle. Angled lights can also cause distress to the tortoise's eyes.

The needed temperature of your enclosure will vary from species to species. It is important to determine what the individual species of your tortoise needs, and to measure the temperature both at the basking site and also at the far reaches of the enclosure using an accurate digital thermometer. Thermostats made for reptile enclosures can be a very useful tool in maintaining the proper temperature.

There are also several options for UV exposure. UV is important for tortoises, because the only way that they can absorb calcium is if they are receiving enough Vitamin D3. If a tortoise is unable to absorb calcium, they will develop a disorder called Metabolic Bone Disease, or MBD. In young tortoises this most often results in death, and even older tortoises can develop soft shells, deformities, and lose the use of their legs. There are only two ways a tortoise can receive Vitamin D3, and that is through exposure to UVA/UVB lighting, or supplements.

There are two types of florescent UV bulbs. One is a T8 style linear florescent tube, the other is a coil, or compact florescent, often called a CFL. Whether or not the amount of UV light that a linear florescent will emit is enough to prevent MBD is very questionable. Many tortoises will develop MBD even if these lights are used. Compact florescent UV lights have in some cases proved dangerous. They are very bright and can cause retina damage and even blindness. Florescent UV lighting should be replaced every six to twelve months. Please also keep in mind that when using a florescent bulb for UV, a second bulb or emitter is required to provide the necessary heat.

There is a great option that combines both light and heat- UV producing Mercury Vapor bulbs, usually shortened to MVB. MVB bulbs produce more UV than linear florescents, and also provide necessary warmth. They are more expensive than linear or compact florescents, but last longer and remove the need for two separate bulbs for heat and UV. (Please keep in mind you may also need an incandescent blacklight or ceramic heat emitter to provide nighttime warmth, especially for very young tortoises.)

UV bulbs need to be placed at a certain distance from the floor of the enclosure in order for the UV wavelengths to be useful to your tortoise. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the package when placing the UV light. The best distance is typically twelve to eighteen inches. In the case of MVB lighting, purchasing lower wattages allows for closer placement of the bulb without danger of overheating your tortoise.

There is no substitute for real sunlight. The more time that your tortoise can spend outside, the better. Tortoises that receive at least 20 minutes of natural sunlight several times a week do not necessarily need supplemental UV lighting while indoors, unless they will be inside for prolonged periods.

Please understand that sunlight coming through windows or through the glass wall of an aquarium will not provide UV exposure. The glass filters too many of the UV rays for them to be useful, and even screen covers can dramatically reduce the amount of UV that your tortoise receives.

If you have concerns about your tortoise receiving enough Vitamin D3 through UV exposure, you can add a Vitamin D3 supplement to their diet. There are many powdered calcium supplements with added Vit. D3 available at pet supply stores. This type of supplement is made to be sprinkled on the tortoise's food. Receiving enough Vitamin D3 and calcium is especially important for hatchling and growing tortoises to prevent MBD related deaths and deformities.

Read the whole article here - http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread...ive-or-Beginner-Tortoise-Owners#ixzz1l5QykNwj

 

[pam]

Welcome I keep my Russians in a converted bookcase 2 1/2 by 5 1/2 feet it works well I have a hide, water dish, numerious rocks, 100 watt UVB bulb and my substrate is Eco Earth. You could also check out http://www.russiantortoise.org Good luck Russians are awsome Great choice

 

[0215]

Thanks and a vita light is a Vitamin D light