Hi, new Horsefield tort owner

Tom

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What substrate would you recommend? It sounds like I have swapped pellets for something as bad super stressed tortoise owner over here! Spent ages looking for the right stuff today and then got it wrong!

Would it be better to spray this stuff down?

And I am injecting him with antibiotics every other day. I have also soaked him once a day but thinking of upping that. I'm most concerned about the not eating. I've inly had him since Wednesday so don't know what I am doing really. I hope I'm not inadvertently making him worse!!

My recommended substrates are in the care sheet.

WHAT are you injecting him with? What is the name of the medicine?

Spraying the substrate's surface will only add a little evaporative cooling to your enclosure. It needs to be damp all the way through. Lightly damp, not wet. Before you do this though, you need to have the proper heating and lighting elements in place to maintain warm temperatures. Adding moisture can cool things and that would be bad for your baby right now. Being overly dry while sick and on antibiotics is bad too. You need moderate humidity, but warm temps day and night right now. Temps for a healthy normal russian are one thing, temps for one fighting illness are another.

Don't worry about the eating. They can go weeks with no food. The appetite will come back when the HEALTH comes back. Warmer temps will help the health come back sooner. The baby food soaks Yvonne has recommended will also help in the short term.
 

Tom

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Sorry to be thick but what's the normal temp I should have, the warm end is about 94f and he seems to spend most of his time there

80-85 all over the entire enclosure day and night, with a 12-14 hour basking spot of around 100. You can gradually lower all this a bit once he is healthy again in a few weeks or a couple of months.
 

Yvonne G

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He's trying to tell you he needs to be warm. A smaller tank will help you keep him warm. In a smaller, hospital tank, an overall temperature of 85F is good. And cover it to keep the cold air from the house out.
 

lynnedit

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Hatchlings do sample things, including substrate.
He does need warmth, even a Rubbermaid bin will work for now. Or try covering a good part of the enclosure with perspex or wire covered with plastic (make sure it does not touch your light).
Definitely check out Tom's instructions. A lot of us use something called a 'humid hide'.

As far as your substrate, did you use potting soil? I'm wondering about those little white things in the soil, perlite or vermiculite?
For my hatchling, I use about a 60/40 mix of topsoil(no animal waste or chemical fertilizers/weed preventives) mixed with Coir.
(exact ratio isn't that important, but the mix works well).
Yes, you will have to periodically add water to the substrate and mix, because the lighting will dry out the substrate.
I also have a small pile of sphagnum moss in one corner, that I moisten daily. It is toward the warmer side. Sometimes my hatchling decides to sleep under it for the night. Sometimes she basks positioned halfway in it. :)
I also mist the enclosure a couple of times per day.

It is a very good sign your hatchling is more active, and wee'ed, etc. Keep soaking daily with the carrot baths!
 

AlbusB

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Hatchlings do sample things, including substrate.
He does need warmth, even a Rubbermaid bin will work for now. Or try covering a good part of the enclosure with perspex or wire covered with plastic (make sure it does not touch your light).
Definitely check out Tom's instructions. A lot of us use something called a 'humid hide'.

As far as your substrate, did you use potting soil? I'm wondering about those little white things in the soil, perlite or vermiculite?
For my hatchling, I use about a 60/40 mix of topsoil(no animal waste or chemical fertilizers/weed preventives) mixed with Coir.
(exact ratio isn't that important, but the mix works well).
Yes, you will have to periodically add water to the substrate and mix, because the lighting will dry out the substrate.
I also have a small pile of sphagnum moss in one corner, that I moisten daily. It is toward the warmer side. Sometimes my hatchling decides to sleep under it for the night. Sometimes she basks positioned halfway in it. :)
I also mist the enclosure a couple of times per day.

It is a very good sign your hatchling is more active, and wee'ed, etc. Keep soaking daily with the carrot baths!

This is the substrate that I have used which has been ready mixed http://www.petsathome.com/shop/en/p...ding-and-substrates/tortoise-terrain-10-litre

I have wet the substrate down and have covered one end for now to see if that makes a difference to him.

I'm also going to give him a second bath later.

I suppose this is what you get by getting a pet shop tortoise. Feeling a little bit sick with worry here!
 

AlbusB

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My recommended substrates are in the care sheet.

WHAT are you injecting him with? What is the name of the medicine?

Spraying the substrate's surface will only add a little evaporative cooling to your enclosure. It needs to be damp all the way through. Lightly damp, not wet. Before you do this though, you need to have the proper heating and lighting elements in place to maintain warm temperatures. Adding moisture can cool things and that would be bad for your baby right now. Being overly dry while sick and on antibiotics is bad too. You need moderate humidity, but warm temps day and night right now. Temps for a healthy normal russian are one thing, temps for one fighting illness are another.

Don't worry about the eating. They can go weeks with no food. The appetite will come back when the HEALTH comes back. Warmer temps will help the health come back sooner. The baby food soaks Yvonne has recommended will also help in the short term.


Sorry getting stressed out and hadn't read it properly. The vet gave me marbocyl with colvasone.

I have the temperature about right but I only have a combined heat and light. The vet said this would be fine as he needs a day night cycle.
 

Tom

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He does need a day and night cycle, but he still needs it warm at night. That is why I suggested a ceramic heating element set on a thermostat. This will give you warmth without light and the thermostat will keep the correct temperature for you. Cold at night with damp substrate will likely make your baby sicker.
 

AlbusB

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He does need a day and night cycle, but he still needs it warm at night. That is why I suggested a ceramic heating element set on a thermostat. This will give you warmth without light and the thermostat will keep the correct temperature for you. Cold at night with damp substrate will likely make your baby sicker.

Sorry I sense your getting impatient with me! But one last question. What bulb would you recommend, I will get it tonight and then hopefully I will have it all by Monday!
 

Tom

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Sorry I sense your getting impatient with me! But one last question. What bulb would you recommend, I will get it tonight and then hopefully I will have it all by Monday!


Bulb for what? You already have a basking bulb. Do you mean the ceramic heating element? I'd get a 100 watt one. The thermostat will keep the correct temp in your enclosure.

Your tortoise cannot wait until Monday. That would be two more cold nights. He needs to be warm tonight. A black lightbulb in another fixture might work. I don't like heating pads, but if you watch it very carefully, it might be okay for a couple of nights. Moving the enclosure to a bathroom and using an electric space heater to heat the whole room would do it.

Not getting impatient at all. The typed word just does not convey tone very well. I type things out in a pretty matter-of-fact way sometimes. Keep asking as many questions as you need to. Its no problem and we are happy to help.
 

AlbusB

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Bulb for what? You already have a basking bulb. Do you mean the ceramic heating element? I'd get a 100 watt one. The thermostat will keep the correct temp in your enclosure.

Your tortoise cannot wait until Monday. That would be two more cold nights. He needs to be warm tonight. A black lightbulb in another fixture might work. I don't like heating pads, but if you watch it very carefully, it might be okay for a couple of nights. Moving the enclosure to a bathroom and using an electric space heater to heat the whole room would do it.

Not getting impatient at all. The typed word just does not convey tone very well. I type things out in a pretty matter-of-fact way sometimes. Keep asking as many questions as you need to. Its no problem and we are happy to help.

Unfortunately there is nothing I can do tonight as it's 1am. I do mean a ceramic heating element, I will have to try and find one tomorrow. But for tonight the heating is up pretty high in my room and I have an electric heater, the infrared temp says it's about 25c ... I'm running out of funds as I have had to replace substrate (which I have got wrong!) etc that was given to me plus vet fees. I expected to invest in my little man just not right away!!

I think I'm just ultra sensitive as I've got myself stressed out, so I'm sure your not getting impatient :)

I have got him to eat a little tonight so he seems to be a hardy soul and getting better despite me having to muddle through!
 

Tom

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Unfortunately there is nothing I can do tonight as it's 1am. I do mean a ceramic heating element, I will have to try and find one tomorrow. But for tonight the heating is up pretty high in my room and I have an electric heater, the infrared temp says it's about 25c ... I'm running out of funds as I have had to replace substrate (which I have got wrong!) etc that was given to me plus vet fees. I expected to invest in my little man just not right away!!

I think I'm just ultra sensitive as I've got myself stressed out, so I'm sure your not getting impatient :)

I have got him to eat a little tonight so he seems to be a hardy soul and getting better despite me having to muddle through!

25 C is good. Hopefully you will be able to maintain that all night for a couple of nights.

One nice thing is that tortoises live for decades. 10 years form now when you are enjoying your tortoise, you won't even remember these expenses or stress.
 

lynnedit

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AlbusB, don't worry about the substrate right now. If it is made for tortoises, it shouldn't have the little perlite pieces that are found in potting soil. Just make sure that you moisten it down, so the under layers are moist (not sopping).
Keeping him warm round the clock is important, but you are helping with that by keeping the room he is in warm. :)
If the room is always 25c for now, then you may not need additional heat for the night, or at least it isn't urgent.

(If you decide to purchase a Ceramic Heat Emitter, get a fixture that is safe to use with it- they look like a cage with a ceramic socket. Then you need a thermostat that has a little wire probe that you embed in the substrate underneath. Plug the CHE/fixture into the thermostat. The CHE will turn on and off and keep that area at the temperature that you set).

You are doing well, trying to absorb all of this information and acting on it. Think of what you have already done!
Take a deep breath, and just sit for a few minutes and watch and enjoy your new friend. He has a very good chance at a wonderful life with you.
Your tortoise sounds like he has already improved; it is a very good sign that he is active.
 

AlbusB

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AlbusB, don't worry about the substrate right now. If it is made for tortoises, it shouldn't have the little perlite pieces that are found in potting soil. Just make sure that you moisten it down, so the under layers are moist (not sopping).
Keeping him warm round the clock is important, but you are helping with that by keeping the room he is in warm. :)
If the room is always 25c for now, then you may not need additional heat for the night, or at least it isn't urgent.

(If you decide to purchase a Ceramic Heat Emitter, get a fixture that is safe to use with it- they look like a cage with a ceramic socket. Then you need a thermostat that has a little wire probe that you embed in the substrate underneath. Plug the CHE/fixture into the thermostat. The CHE will turn on and off and keep that area at the temperature that you set).

You are doing well, trying to absorb all of this information and acting on it. Think of what you have already done!
Take a deep breath, and just sit for a few minutes and watch and enjoy your new friend. He has a very good chance at a wonderful life with you.
Your tortoise sounds like he has already improved; it is a very good sign that he is active.

Thank you that made me feel better :). He's trying to eat but doesn't really seem able to break food off very easily so struggling to get anything down him. Is this normal?.

I have tried the carrot bath today as well so hopefully this will make a big difference to him.

I bought a ceramic heat emitter today... Is the probe supposed to go under the substrate?

Thank you everyone for all your help :)
 

lynnedit

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You purchased a thermostat with a probe for the CHE? Then just embed the end of the probe right on the substrate under the CHE(not under neath). Use some stones, etc., to hold the wire probe down in the enclosure, but leave the tip exposed.

Try chopping the food up more finely for now. Even try hand feeding him.
And keep up the carrot baths daily until you feel he is eating well.
When he is, personally, I would continue to soak a young tortoise daily (water only) until at least a year of age, then 3-4x per week.
 

lynnedit

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Eventually, when you have time, it is a lot more economical to get topsoil at somewhere like B&Q (no animal waste, no chemical fertilizers or weed preventives) and mix that with some Coir (comes loose in bags, or as bricks-place in a bucket and add hot water in stages until it is broken up and moist).
B&Q may sell the bricks too.
Mix about 50/50. I really like this substrate for my hatchling.
But no rush. :)
 

AlbusB

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You purchased a thermostat with a probe for the CHE? Then just embed the end of the probe right on the substrate under the CHE(not under neath). Use some stones, etc., to hold the wire probe down in the enclosure, but leave the tip exposed.

Try chopping the food up more finely for now. Even try hand feeding him.
And keep up the carrot baths daily until you feel he is eating well.
When he is, personally, I would continue to soak a young tortoise daily (water only) until at least a year of age, then 3-4x per week.


I bought the thermostat with the prob and that's set up in one corner, so hopefully tonight he'll be nice and warm.

He's only eaten if I hand feed him but don't want to stress him out either... And I will continue to soak him, he seems to enjoy it anyway.

Other than the substrate I think I have finished the tank... What do you guys think, any suggestions or is this ok? ImageUploadedByTortoise Forum1417983106.999175.jpg
 

lynnedit

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It looks good. Did you add water to the substrate so the under layers are moist?

I would avoid feeding tomatoes; they are too high in sugar. Concentrate on dark leafy greens and weeds. Since weeds can be in short supply during the winter, get the Florette crispy salad mix as a base. Then rotate a different tortoise safe green to this each week; kale, mustard, escarole, endive, turnip greens, etc.

You might also consider getting a tile (B&Q might sell those individually) to feed him off of. If it is a bit bigger, it will keep the food out of the substrate and help keep his beak trimmed.

I do like the stones: you can create a little hill in the middle and use them embedded in it. Climbing is good for them.

Good job!
 

AlbusB

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It looks good. Did you add water to the substrate so the under layers are moist?

I would avoid feeding tomatoes; they are too high in sugar. Concentrate on dark leafy greens and weeds. Since weeds can be in short supply during the winter, get the Florette crispy salad mix as a base. Then rotate a different tortoise safe green to this each week; kale, mustard, escarole, endive, turnip greens, etc.

You might also consider getting a tile (B&Q might sell those individually) to feed him off of. If it is a bit bigger, it will keep the food out of the substrate and help keep his beak trimmed.

I do like the stones: you can create a little hill in the middle and use them embedded in it. Climbing is good for them.

Good job!

Thank you :)

The substrate has been watered and he seems to be enjoying burying more so that's good :)

I wouldn't normally give to tomatoes but the vet suggested it just to get him eating again and he did have a nibble today so if nothing else they are getting him eating :) Once his appetite is back he'll be on the salads :) I have ordered a slate but not arrived yet the stone in the middle is a temporary thing just to keep it off the sand.

He's slept a lot today but the heat is up and he's had a carrot bath and will have one tomorrow so hopefully this will get him marching around
 

lynnedit

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OK, then I think you are on the right track. This will take some time and perseverance.
I understand about the tomatoes, that makes sense. Once he is done with the medication, his appetite may improve.

Sounds like you have things covered!
 

Momof4

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You could also chop up his food really tiny so it's easier to eat. That's what I did with my redfoot when he was little.
You have a cutie there!!
 

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