Hello from England! I need some opinions on my sulcata please :)

gg888

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Hello there!
We adopted this fellow about two months ago. His name is Barnie. His previous owner no longer wanted him. He told us that he was a male and aged 3 and a half. Since getting him I've started him on the correct diet with calcium and UV (based on his shape I'm assuming his previous owner wasn't aware of the needs of sulcatas). I'm hoping he'll improve over time as he develops.
Apart from that though, he's a very healthy guy, with a lovely temperament too.
What I want to know is, is he really a boy? I know he's still young, but I was wondering if anybody could shed any light?
Thanks! image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 

Tidgy's Dad

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Hello there, gg, and a very warm welcome to Tortoise Forum to you and Barnie.
Thanks for taking him ( i think, but not certain) in!:)
He is still a handsome fellow despite the pyramiding!
Pyramiding is now generally thought to be cause by being kept in too dry conditions, not lack of calcium alone, so you will need to see that his humidity is kept up.
See http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/the-end-of-pyramiding.15137/ for further details.
Also http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.79895/
and http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/for-those-who-have-a-young-sulcata.76744/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/sulcata-diet-sheet.52677/
and http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/closed-chambers.32333/
should all help you.
Sorry, it's a lot of reading, but worth it for a happy healthy tort.
Any questions you have, please don't hesitate to ask as there are plenty of experienced sulcata owners here happy to help.
 

Lyn W

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Hi gg and welcome.
I am in the UK too and have a rescued leopard called Lola whose care is very similar to a sullys.
It's not been easy or cheap keeping Lola because of the temps they need, but wouldn't be without him now.
He has a room to himself and getting the humidity high enough has been a bit of a prob but I give a warm soak everyday to try to stop his existing pyramiding getting worse and it seems to be working. ( I also soak so often as I work and rarely see him drink so just making sure he is hydrated too)
There's lots to learn but this is the best place for up to date info and advice which has been a godsend to me. So read search and ask as many questions as you like, someone will soon be along to answer.
Looking forward to seeing how Bernie gets on.
 

Tom

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It looks like this little gal might have some MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) going on too. You are going to need a strong, reliable UV source and a meter to check it with. I recommend the Arcadia 12% HO tubes and they need to be mounted about 18-22" away from the tortoise. Arcadia Mercury vapor bulbs work very well too.

At this point it is too early to tell for sure, but that small tail is making me think female at this point. You'll know for sure in a couple of years one way or the other.
 

dmmj

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I agree with the metabolic bone disorder. The mushroom cap appearance to the shell sort of points to it. A very good UV source would be beneficial for him along with extra calcium in his diet. salutations and enjoy your tortoise and the forum.
 

Yvonne G

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It has a pretty short gular too, however, it may still be a bit too small to know the gender for sure.

Welcome to the Forum, gg!
 

gg888

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I soak Barnie once a day, I've replaced his UV light and I also put calcium in his bath water and add to food every other day. I've upped his humidity in his house so I'm hoping as he grows he'll improve! I was leaning to thinking he was male, purely because the underneath of his shell looks like it's starting to concave (can't see clearly in the pictures). As for the tail, I was thinking because he was so young, it's still got plenty of time to grow?
 

gg888

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When we went to fetch him from his previous owner I was pretty shocked when I saw him pyramiding. But I completely fell in love with him, as he's got such a character. Not only that, he's a really healthy eater and he's really energetic!
 

gg888

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It looks like this little gal might have some MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) going on too. You are going to need a strong, reliable UV source and a meter to check it with. I recommend the Arcadia 12% HO tubes and they need to be mounted about 18-22" away from the tortoise. Arcadia Mercury vapor bulbs work very well too.

At this point it is too early to tell for sure, but that small tail is making me think female at this point. You'll know for sure in a couple of years one way or the other.
My father in law also has a sulcata, she's seven/eight years old and we're pretty sure she's female. Barnie keeps nipping at the back of her shell and shaking her around when we get them together for play dates (aww) What does this mean?
 

SarahChelonoidis

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My father in law also has a sulcata, she's seven/eight years old and we're pretty sure she's female. Barnie keeps nipping at the back of her shell and shaking her around when we get them together for play dates (aww) What does this mean?

It means that sulcata are territorial and aggressive. They really don't enjoy play dates. You're risking stress, injury, and spreading of disease.
 

gg888

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It means that sulcata are territorial and aggressive. They really don't enjoy play dates. You're risking stress, injury, and spreading of disease.
There was absolutely no risk of injury, as they were supervised at all times. That was the only sign of that sort of behavior, apart from that they were incompletely fine. They seemed calm, and more inquisitive than anything. As for the risks of spreading disease, both tortoises are completely healthy and well looked after.
 

Lyn W

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Territorial bullying behaviour isn't always the actively aggressive sort that you've already seen, it could just be torts following about or certain warning looks/stares that you may not even notice, but the presence of another tort will be stressful to both. They also don't like change so moving them about can be stressful too - best to get them settled in their own enclosures really.
They may both be very healthy on the surface but tortoises are carriers of certain diseases which can be passed on to other torts which is why they are always quarantined before adding to a group. When my tort was first found I contacted the British Association of Tort Keepers (BATK) for advice about rehoming and they told me they quarantine for 18 months before they are introduced into another group.
I and the other members are not just saying this to be killjoys but it would be irresponsible of us not to pass on the information we have about the possible risks to your torts.
 

Lyn W

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I soak Barnie once a day, I've replaced his UV light and I also put calcium in his bath water and add to food every other day. I've upped his humidity in his house so I'm hoping as he grows he'll improve! I was leaning to thinking he was male, purely because the underneath of his shell looks like it's starting to concave (can't see clearly in the pictures). As for the tail, I was thinking because he was so young, it's still got plenty of time to grow?
Do you have a cuttlefish bone for him? You can use the ones they sell for birds (60p in Wilkinsons - remove the metal bracket for attachment to cages)
They will nibble on those for calcium - they usually seem to know when they need it. Or you can scrape it on their food.
 

gg888

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so if tortoises can't be put together, how do people breed them? I'm not planning on doing this, i'm just curious.

I sprinkle calcium over his food (his diet consists of grass, clover, dandelion and hay mostly, with kale as a treat). He's also got a cuttlefish bone in his home to nibble on at his leisure. He absolutely loves roaming around the garden, but its getting a bit cold outside now :(

I use pets at home's tortoise terrain as a substrate. I've also upped his humidity because of his pyramiding. He's bathed once a day (sometimes once every other day when i'm busy as work). I try and keep a constant supply of hay in his home. I have a heat+UV all in one bulb which I replace every five months as I'm told that although the bulbs last a year, they don't let out as much UV as they start to age.

If i'm doing anything wrong, please say, as I want him to be as happy and healthy as possible!
 

gg888

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Do you have a cuttlefish bone for him? You can use the ones they sell for birds (60p in Wilkinsons - remove the metal bracket for attachment to cages)
They will nibble on those for calcium - they usually seem to know when they need it. Or you can scrape it on their food.
With the proper care. will his pyramiding get better as he develops? He was like this when i adopted him.
 

Tidgy's Dad

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If you have enough space you can have two, preferably 3 or more females with one male for breeding.
It's pairs that's the big problem, though one must be careful with groups too.
One male can relentlessly pursue a lone female and unlike in the wild she can't escape.
It can lead to great stress and even the death of the female.
 

gg888

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If you have enough space you can have two, preferably 3 or more females with one male for breeding.
It's pairs that's the big problem, though one must be careful with groups too.
One male can relentlessly pursue a lone female and unlike in the wild she can't escape.
It can lead to great stress and even the death of the female.
That's all well and good, but I don't know if Barnie is a boy or a girl! I've done so much research on it, and he shows signs of both. I've given up guessing and decided to wait until he (or she) is older. Ii does seem that boys are more common than girls, just based on everything i've read.
 

Lyn W

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so if tortoises can't be put together, how do people breed them? I'm not planning on doing this, i'm just curious.

I sprinkle calcium over his food (his diet consists of grass, clover, dandelion and hay mostly, with kale as a treat). He's also got a cuttlefish bone in his home to nibble on at his leisure. He absolutely loves roaming around the garden, but its getting a bit cold outside now :(

I use pets at home's tortoise terrain as a substrate. I've also upped his humidity because of his pyramiding. He's bathed once a day (sometimes once every other day when i'm busy as work). I try and keep a constant supply of hay in his home. I have a heat+UV all in one bulb which I replace every five months as I'm told that although the bulbs last a year, they don't let out as much UV as they start to age.

If i'm doing anything wrong, please say, as I want him to be as happy and healthy as possible!
As I understand it pairs don't get on, but groups of torts together are OK, so maybe tortoise breeders keep groups of females then when those are sexually mature perhaps they introduce a male to mate. Maybe if you do a search you will find out more.

I am finding weeds hard to find now and my Leo will not touch hay, so for his winter diet I use a combination of Florette Classic Crispy Salad or Sainsburys Mixed leaf salad, Spring greens, kale, some romaine, carrot leaves and beetroot leaves - whatever I can get really. I have tried growing my own weeds from a pack of tortoise seeds but I do not have green fingers. Lola likes to graze on grass during the summer but he won't eat it if it is picked. So I use Friendly Readigrass which I grind up in a blender to sprinkle and spray with water onto his 'salads' to get fibre and calcium etc in.
www.thetortoisetable.co.uk is a great place to check on safe/toxic foods for torts, and the caresheet will give you a good list too.
I also use a mvb bulb (Mine is Arcadia Mini D3 80w but will probably up the wattage for winter)

What are you using for night heat?
I use a ceramic heat emitter run through a thermostat which just gives heat, because as you prob already know torts need darkness to sleep. I got mine from The Range about £55 for both. He also has a radiator in his room so he is nice and cosy.
A good rule I've learnt here is that
right temps + humidity = healthy tort
too cold + humidity = sick tort.
Hope this all helps - it's great you want to do your best for Barnie.
 
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