baby leopard enclosure advice needed.

Wineberg

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Jun 26, 2016
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So in my research and prep for my first two baby leopards, I have hit a bit of a road block. Ive been trying to plan out an enclosure and it seems that the tortoise community is divided on what works and what doesn't. Some say aquariums are fine, some say they're death traps, some say tortoise tables are great, others say it has to be a closed enclosure. At the end of the day is it just whatever works best for me? I really liked a set up on here that was a 40 gallon breeder with a hood on top to keep in moisture but I also liked the simplicity of this redfoots enclosure ( minus the pothos of course)
. I've been reading so much trying to prepare before I purchase my torts, and I just dont want to goof up. Any tips or suggestions?
 

Jodie

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My first tip is don't get 2. Pairs do not do well. Second you need an enclosure you can maintain 80 percent humidity. Covered aquariums can work. There are lots of ways to do it. An open table will not unless the room is 80 percent humidity. Read the care guides in the leopard section. They are the most up to date info available.
 

Linhdan Nguyen

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At the end of the day, it's what's best for your tortoise.. and you. The big issue with hatchlings is humidity.
Aquariums are easy because they are water proof so don't mold at the high humidity exposure. Tortoise tables are great but for certain species only (from what i've read and seen). In order to keep the humidity high and stable, a closed top is needed so it doesnt easily escape.
here are a few threads that I've read through and believe can be helpful:

http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/pearlys-40-gal-tank-covered-top.139373/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/closed-chamber-leopard-edition.109634/
 

Wineberg

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My first tip is don't get 2. Pairs do not do well. Second you need an enclosure you can maintain 80 percent humidity. Covered aquariums can work. There are lots of ways to do it. An open table will not unless the room is 80 percent humidity. Read the care guides in the leopard section. They are the most up to date info available.
Oh do they stress easily or are they just not social?
 

Wineberg

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At the end of the day, it's what's best for your tortoise.. and you. The big issue with hatchlings is humidity.
Aquariums are easy because they are water proof so don't mold at the high humidity exposure. Tortoise tables are great but for certain species only (from what i've read and seen). In order to keep the humidity high and stable, a closed top is needed so it doesnt easily escape.
here are a few threads that I've read through and believe can be helpful:

http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/pearlys-40-gal-tank-covered-top.139373/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/closed-chamber-leopard-edition.109634/
Thanks for the links, I got some reading to do.
 

wellington

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Pairs will fight/bully. One will bully the other and the one being bullied can get sick and die, won't thrive. As hatchlings, you might get away with it for some time. However, eventually they will need their one enclosure. 1 or 3 or more is always better as there are more tortoises for the bullying to be spread around and may not happen at all. Of course spends on the sex you end up with too.
A 40 gallon is fine, but soon will be too small for two. The large tote boxes are cheap and can be cut to connect them together. Most important is doing what's right for the tortoise any thing else comes after them.
 

Jodie

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Oh do they stress easily or are they just not social?
Yes. They are solitary and territorial. The dominant tortoise will cause the other stress. The submissive tortoise is not able to get out of the other guys territory. He will spend all of his time hiding instead of basking and eating.
 

Tom

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So in my research and prep for my first two baby leopards, I have hit a bit of a road block. Ive been trying to plan out an enclosure and it seems that the tortoise community is divided on what works and what doesn't. Some say aquariums are fine, some say they're death traps, some say tortoise tables are great, others say it has to be a closed enclosure. At the end of the day is it just whatever works best for me? I really liked a set up on here that was a 40 gallon breeder with a hood on top to keep in moisture but I also liked the simplicity of this redfoots enclosure ( minus the pothos of course) . I've been reading so much trying to prepare before I purchase my torts, and I just dont want to goof up. Any tips or suggestions?

Ughhh…… I hate it when this happens. A new person is really trying to learn and do the right things, but the internet is a confusing mess of mis-information and conflicting info. Who do you listen to? We have arguments about this stuff all the time here. I'll try to break it down for you a bit: For the last several decades we have been caring for our tortoises all wrong. This old, out-dated care info was based on incorrect assumptions about how they live in the wild, and it has been killing tortoises for decades. Leopards are one of the most affected by this old-wrong info. The bottom line is that tortoises can survive a drought in the wild. This does not mean dry, desiccating drought-like conditions are "good" for them. They thrive in the wild during the monsoon season when things are wet, rainy, very humid, and there are puddles, marshes and green growing food everywhere.

Anyone who says glass tanks are death traps needs to tell me and several other experienced members here how we have had miraculously excellent results raising hundreds of babies of several species over several decades in them. Glass tanks are actually BETTER for tortoise for the very reasons they say they are bad. Reduced airflow means that your warm humid air stays where you want it. In the tortoise enclosure.

I'm so glad you found us BEFORE you bought anything, and I'm thrilled that you like to read. Read these BEOFRE you buy:

This one will explain what SHOULD be done with babies, so you know what to ask your breeder:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-incubate-eggs-and-start-hatchlings.124266/

This one explains what happens when the breeder does it the old way:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/hatchling-failure-syndrome.23493/

These two will give you much more background on where all my assertions are coming from. Take note of the dates:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/the-end-of-pyramiding.15137/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/the-end-of-pyramiding-ii-the-leopards.18931/

Finally, these ones will give you the best and most current care info and tips:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.79895/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/


Please feel free to question all of this and ask for more explanation.
 

Wineberg

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Jun 26, 2016
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Ughhh…… I hate it when this happens. A new person is really trying to learn and do the right things, but the internet is a confusing mess of mis-information and conflicting info. Who do you listen to? We have arguments about this stuff all the time here. I'll try to break it down for you a bit: For the last several decades we have been caring for our tortoises all wrong. This old, out-dated care info was based on incorrect assumptions about how they live in the wild, and it has been killing tortoises for decades. Leopards are one of the most affected by this old-wrong info. The bottom line is that tortoises can survive a drought in the wild. This does not mean dry, desiccating drought-like conditions are "good" for them. They thrive in the wild during the monsoon season when things are wet, rainy, very humid, and there are puddles, marshes and green growing food everywhere.

Anyone who says glass tanks are death traps needs to tell me and several other experienced members here how we have had miraculously excellent results raising hundreds of babies of several species over several decades in them. Glass tanks are actually BETTER for tortoise for the very reasons they say they are bad. Reduced airflow means that your warm humid air stays where you want it. In the tortoise enclosure.

I'm so glad you found us BEFORE you bought anything, and I'm thrilled that you like to read. Read these BEOFRE you buy:

This one will explain what SHOULD be done with babies, so you know what to ask your breeder:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-incubate-eggs-and-start-hatchlings.124266/

This one explains what happens when the breeder does it the old way:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/hatchling-failure-syndrome.23493/

These two will give you much more background on where all my assertions are coming from. Take note of the dates:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/the-end-of-pyramiding.15137/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/the-end-of-pyramiding-ii-the-leopards.18931/

Finally, these ones will give you the best and most current care info and tips:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.79895/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/


Please feel free to question all of this and ask for more explanation.
Thanks Tom, I was starting to feel a little stupid, as though I just wasn't getting it or something. Glad to know misinformation is rampant and causing my confusion. I was thinking of picking up my Tort in august when the Reptile Super Show comes through but the more I read, the more I'm thinking that wouldn't be such a good idea. Thank you for the extra info, and I'll make a point of reading the care sheet a second time to make sure I absorbed all the info. The more I've read the more I have realized that I lost my baby sulcata due to all the misinformation floating around and I'm kinda down on myself about it. All the more reason to read though.
 

Tom

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Thanks Tom, I was starting to feel a little stupid, as though I just wasn't getting it or something. Glad to know misinformation is rampant and causing my confusion. I was thinking of picking up my Tort in august when the Reptile Super Show comes through but the more I read, the more I'm thinking that wouldn't be such a good idea. Thank you for the extra info, and I'll make a point of reading the care sheet a second time to make sure I absorbed all the info. The more I've read the more I have realized that I lost my baby sulcata due to all the misinformation floating around and I'm kinda down on myself about it. All the more reason to read though.

All of that info is the product of decades of my own failures. I followed all that info that you have also read, and I failed time after time after time. It literally took decades, and lots of info from many sources to put all that together. We still don't know everything and there is much more to learn, but at least some of us aren't losing dozens of babies to easily preventable dehydration, and some of our tortoises are growing up to be healthy and resemble what they look like in the wild instead of all the normal pyramiding we see in our captive raised tortoises.

The show would be a fine place to buy a tortoise IF you find a breeder there that soaks his/her babies daily and doesn't keep them outside in the hot sun all day, or use dry substrate and no humidity. Sadly, you are not likely to find that, so I think you are already on the right track.
 

Romeo Serback

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Thanks Tom, I was starting to feel a little stupid, as though I just wasn't getting it or something. Glad to know misinformation is rampant and causing my confusion. I was thinking of picking up my Tort in august when the Reptile Super Show comes through but the more I read, the more I'm thinking that wouldn't be such a good idea. Thank you for the extra info, and I'll make a point of reading the care sheet a second time to make sure I absorbed all the info. The more I've read the more I have realized that I lost my baby sulcata due to all the misinformation floating around and I'm kinda down on myself about it. All the more reason to read though.
I'm very curious. Did you find your tortoise?
I'm reading every thread to learn and learn and learn and everytime some thread piques my interest, I comment. And if you did purchase a tortoise, can we see him/her?
 
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