I've been meaning to do this thread for a while now. I've shown how I build, heat, and use my larger 4x8' boxes, but that is just too big for a single sulcata or a few leopards. Those can be seen here: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread-66867.html
This version is only 4x4', and its much more suitable for smaller applications. The main thing I want to show is how I'm heating it. This box houses my female South African Leopards. The lid is hinged and lays back against the wall for ease of cleaning and maintenance. There is 1.5" rigid foam insulation sandwiched between the outer and inner plywood layers. The walls are all sealed with plain silicone caulking to prevent any cold drafts. I prime and paint the outside, but I leave the inside totally untreated. I've been using these boxes for many years with no problems. I use plywood and not particle board or OSB, because it lasts longer and it won't disintegrate if it gets wet. Typically I put pressure treated skids on the bottoms of these to keep them off the ground for when it rains, but it stays pretty dry in this spot and I think the bottom flat on the ground will offer better insulation on a below freezing night.
Pics:
Here is the box on the outside. Notice the "drawbridge" style folding door. I close them up every night to keep them safe and warmer. There are vinyl flaps to keep the warm air in on cooler days when the door is open. If this box looks a little "worn" its because it used to be buried. Its a refurbished and recycled box.
Here it is with the top open. You can see the radiant heat panel and my plastic shoe box that contains all my wires and electrical equipment.
Here you can see the RHP, the shoe box with my thermostat (See the probe hanging out?), my electric meter, and all the extra wire. Keeps it all contained nice and neat and out of tortoise reach. You can also see the Kane heat mat and how much floor space it takes up. The RHP is directly over the heat mat, and both are on the same thermostat. The tortoises can simply move over to the other side if they wish to get away from the heating elements, yet they will still be in their warm box.
In this pic you can see how I've built a little frame to lower the RHP. RHPs are not effective if they are too far away. They will not work well if mounted on the ceiling of a 4' tall box. The total height inside this box is about 21". The tortoises are only about 5-6" tall, so I've lowered the RHP about 6". In the future, as these girls get bigger, I may raise it up a bit, but the beauty of the RHP is that it gives off uniform warming heat over a large area, with no carapace damaging "hot spots" like you would encounter with a regular incandescent bulb or a CHE. You can literally lay your hand upon it while its on and it will not burn you. Can't do that with a CHE. You can also see the weather stripping in this pic.
I took it out for the pictures, but I also usually have a five gallon bucket of water in the box to add some humidity. Its very dry here in my climate and this helps to maintain some humidity in the warm box. This wouldn't be necessary in some areas. I tend to set my thermostats at 80-85 in winter when the days won't be getting all that warm, and I set them for 70-75 in the summer when every day will be sunny and 90-100 degrees.
I hope this thread inspires people to design and build their own boxes. These boxes work MUCH better than anything that you can buy and they are very energy efficient too.
Here is a link to where to get the Radiant Heat Panels: http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels
I've been dealing with Bobby for a few years now, and he's been very honest about the strengths and weaknesses of his products. Years ago, he told me he didn't know how well these would work for what I wanted to do with them. He was happy to hear my positive feedback. These are designed for large indoor constrictor cages. They do not generate a tremendous amount of heat. In an under-insulated or drafty box, I don't think they would be effective, but neither would most any other heating element. For me, they work fantastic. I like them much better than any kind of bulb that only warms one spot. I have one of these over a large male sulcata, and it keeps his whole body warm instead of just one spot on the top of his carapace.
The Kane heat mats can be purchased from Tyler here: http://www.tortoisesupply.com/kane-heat-mats/
This version is only 4x4', and its much more suitable for smaller applications. The main thing I want to show is how I'm heating it. This box houses my female South African Leopards. The lid is hinged and lays back against the wall for ease of cleaning and maintenance. There is 1.5" rigid foam insulation sandwiched between the outer and inner plywood layers. The walls are all sealed with plain silicone caulking to prevent any cold drafts. I prime and paint the outside, but I leave the inside totally untreated. I've been using these boxes for many years with no problems. I use plywood and not particle board or OSB, because it lasts longer and it won't disintegrate if it gets wet. Typically I put pressure treated skids on the bottoms of these to keep them off the ground for when it rains, but it stays pretty dry in this spot and I think the bottom flat on the ground will offer better insulation on a below freezing night.
Pics:
Here is the box on the outside. Notice the "drawbridge" style folding door. I close them up every night to keep them safe and warmer. There are vinyl flaps to keep the warm air in on cooler days when the door is open. If this box looks a little "worn" its because it used to be buried. Its a refurbished and recycled box.
Here it is with the top open. You can see the radiant heat panel and my plastic shoe box that contains all my wires and electrical equipment.
Here you can see the RHP, the shoe box with my thermostat (See the probe hanging out?), my electric meter, and all the extra wire. Keeps it all contained nice and neat and out of tortoise reach. You can also see the Kane heat mat and how much floor space it takes up. The RHP is directly over the heat mat, and both are on the same thermostat. The tortoises can simply move over to the other side if they wish to get away from the heating elements, yet they will still be in their warm box.
In this pic you can see how I've built a little frame to lower the RHP. RHPs are not effective if they are too far away. They will not work well if mounted on the ceiling of a 4' tall box. The total height inside this box is about 21". The tortoises are only about 5-6" tall, so I've lowered the RHP about 6". In the future, as these girls get bigger, I may raise it up a bit, but the beauty of the RHP is that it gives off uniform warming heat over a large area, with no carapace damaging "hot spots" like you would encounter with a regular incandescent bulb or a CHE. You can literally lay your hand upon it while its on and it will not burn you. Can't do that with a CHE. You can also see the weather stripping in this pic.
I took it out for the pictures, but I also usually have a five gallon bucket of water in the box to add some humidity. Its very dry here in my climate and this helps to maintain some humidity in the warm box. This wouldn't be necessary in some areas. I tend to set my thermostats at 80-85 in winter when the days won't be getting all that warm, and I set them for 70-75 in the summer when every day will be sunny and 90-100 degrees.
I hope this thread inspires people to design and build their own boxes. These boxes work MUCH better than anything that you can buy and they are very energy efficient too.
Here is a link to where to get the Radiant Heat Panels: http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels
I've been dealing with Bobby for a few years now, and he's been very honest about the strengths and weaknesses of his products. Years ago, he told me he didn't know how well these would work for what I wanted to do with them. He was happy to hear my positive feedback. These are designed for large indoor constrictor cages. They do not generate a tremendous amount of heat. In an under-insulated or drafty box, I don't think they would be effective, but neither would most any other heating element. For me, they work fantastic. I like them much better than any kind of bulb that only warms one spot. I have one of these over a large male sulcata, and it keeps his whole body warm instead of just one spot on the top of his carapace.
The Kane heat mats can be purchased from Tyler here: http://www.tortoisesupply.com/kane-heat-mats/