Hello everyone, I really need help,

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Feb 21, 2017
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Hello everyone,

I am a very new owner of a redfoot tortoise. I have been reading quite a lot about how to take care of my little Red Foot, however I have some questions.

I am in South East Florida, close to the sea, and to my understanding this area's environment is quite close to the natural habitat of red foot tortoises in humidity and temperature.

The pet store that sold me Alexander, also sold me a bunch of equipment that it doesn't seem right for him. They gave me a dessert starter kit, that is see through and small, as I read about different enclosures I quickly placed Alexander in a bigger plastic box instead of the dessert kit.

I am not sure what else to do to make sure he is not suffering and he is comfortable. He has been refusing all the food but collard, this morning he accepted papaya for the first time.

He spends most of the time within his shell or under the log, ( should I wake him up, do I have to do something different ?)

At the moment, I have him indoors because, of all winters, this year is a bit colder than usual, but still temperatures are between 16 C and 27 C ( 60.8 F and 82.4 F) , and I do not know if I should put a heating lamp all the time, part of the time.... should I keep it outdoors in the balcony?, It is too cold for him?.

Another concern is hawks , if I leave him in a big enclosure, at least 6 x 4 sqft , and covered with a metallic net, in the balcony would he be in danger?

The pet store did not know how old he was for sure, someone guessed he was around 6 months old or so.

Thank you for your help!

 

Grandpa Turtle 144

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Hi
ImageUploadedByTortoise Forum1487778563.835655.jpg
Pet shops are in business to make money by selling you what you don't need but sell ! Read the care pages we have here .
 

DutchieAmanda

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Hi and welcome!
The temperatures should be around 80F / 27C, otherwise he will slow down and he's not able to digest his food. So you need a heat lamp, preferably a CHE on a thermostate. Do you also have a UVB light?
When the temps are up, also check the humidity (should be 80%).
If you post pics of the enclosure we might give you more tips!
 

Pearly

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Hi and welcome from Texas. I also keep the Redfooted and went through great pains until I felt like I had things done right. RF torts are forest species and need lots of places to get away and hide from the bright sun and from perceived danger. From watching mine for almost 2 yrs I know that they feel best in areas of dense foliage and away from bright sun. The most important thing to know for the new owner is to keep them safe, warm, humid, with few hide options and access to fresh drinking water and give them 20-30 min warm bath at least every other day, and feed diverse diet. If you do all this while reading all the pertinent threads, study "tortoise library" and "TURTLETARY" website (you can find both through google search) your Alexander will be safe and sound and ready for his superior new ownership:)
 

Pearly

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How big is Alexander? Can you weigh and measure straight distance from front to back of his shell? If he is a baby (less than 4" shell) keep him inside in safe enclosure, definitely heat lamp. As far as "desert kit" I got "desert" uv flourescent tube for mine, it's only bcs it seemed brighter and I'm trying to grow some plants in there. If your tort is little and the petstore sold you tank that is about 40 gal it will last you for a while. Terrarium makes it easy to keep the right temps and humidity consistently, bcs to me the tank was the easies thing to cover the top. Check out the enclosures section here and look up "CLOSED CHAMBERS". Another question: what do you use to measure temperature and humidity? If you use those round dial gauges from petstore, they are not very accurate. Get infrared gun thermometer at home depot for 29$ or Amazon just had them for 19.99$ you can measure temps inside his hides, at substrate level, spot check his bath water temp etc. I had also got couple of accurite digital humidity gagues (like 9bucks a piece) they also measure temperature, and placed them in few different spots of enclosure (close to heat lamp & away from it) this way i had a pretty good idea what my temps and humidity were at all times. Post picture of your enclosure and we'll help you tweak it. Post few different views with your tort in it. That's all i can think of for now. I'm sure others will be chiming in soon
 

Redstrike

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I agree, pictures of your setup are always helpful.

You are in the perfect climate for redfoots being in FL! Outside time (make the outdoor enclosure escape proof - see the enclosure section on the forum for ideas) is the best thing you can do! I'm in NY so mine only go outside ~6 months annually.

My indoor setup has a tube UVB bulb (Zoo Med 10.0) and a humidifier to keep humidity at a minimum of 70%. I also have a basking bulb in the day and run ceramic heat emitters (CHE's) on a thermostat to keep the warm end at 85 and the cool, darker side at 80.

The Redfoot Manual by Mike Pingleton is my go to reference for redfoot care. I also like tortoiselibrary.com.
 
Joined
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Hi and welcome!
The temperatures should be around 80F / 27C, otherwise he will slow down and he's not able to digest his food. So you need a heat lamp, preferably a CHE on a thermostate. Do you also have a UVB light?
When the temps are up, also check the humidity (should be 80%).
If you post pics of the enclosure we might give you more tips!
Hi,
Thank you so much for your reply. As I live in SE Florida and in an small island I have very high humidity naturally, the temperatures usually are in the high 70's and 80's but I do not know if these natural conditions are changed in the enclosure if I have it outdoors.
 
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How big is Alexander? Can you weigh and measure straight distance from front to back of his shell? If he is a baby (less than 4" shell) keep him inside in safe enclosure, definitely heat lamp. As far as "desert kit" I got "desert" uv flourescent tube for mine, it's only bcs it seemed brighter and I'm trying to grow some plants in there. If your tort is little and the petstore sold you tank that is about 40 gal it will last you for a while. Terrarium makes it easy to keep the right temps and humidity consistently, bcs to me the tank was the easies thing to cover the top. Check out the enclosures section here and look up "CLOSED CHAMBERS". Another question: what do you use to measure temperature and humidity? If you use those round dial gauges from petstore, they are not very accurate. Get infrared gun thermometer at home depot for 29$ or Amazon just had them for 19.99$ you can measure temps inside his hides, at substrate level, spot check his bath water temp etc. I had also got couple of accurite digital humidity gagues (like 9bucks a piece) they also measure temperature, and placed them in few different spots of enclosure (close to heat lamp & away from it) this way i had a pretty good idea what my temps and humidity were at all times. Post picture of your enclosure and we'll help you tweak it. Post few different views with your tort in it. That's all i can think of for now. I'm sure others will be chiming in soon

Hello Pearly,

Thank you so much for your advice. I already ordered the infrared gun thermometer, and tomorrow I will try to post the pictures.

I have Alexander for only 3 days with today, so I am really new at this, reading is not the same as doing. The shell is a bit over 4 inches and he weights
0: 5.6 Lb
I was using the round dial that you mention. Keep in mind that Florida, is really very humid naturally and temperatures are usually between the 70 - 90 F. Occasionally, the temperature drops, like today to 61 F at night but it is not the usual thing. Today, for example, it was raining all day long with heavy rain, so the humidity was even higher.
I have observed that if I put him in the balcony under my supervision and out of his enclosure, he is much more active and eats better.

Sometimes, he refused other food , eating only collard, and today for the first time , papaya.

I have been reading a lot but much of it , I feel , is about how to care for redcoats living in dryer or colder areas, so I am a bit lost.

Regards,
 
Joined
Feb 21, 2017
Messages
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I agree, pictures of your setup are always helpful.

You are in the perfect climate for redfoots being in FL! Outside time (make the outdoor enclosure escape proof - see the enclosure section on the forum for ideas) is the best thing you can do! I'm in NY so mine only go outside ~6 months annually.

My indoor setup has a tube UVB bulb (Zoo Med 10.0) and a humidifier to keep humidity at a minimum of 70%. I also have a basking bulb in the day and run ceramic heat emitters (CHE's) on a thermostat to keep the warm end at 85 and the cool, darker side at 80.

The Redfoot Manual by Mike Pingleton is my go to reference for redfoot care. I also like tortoiselibrary.com.

Hello Redstrike,

Thank you for your email.

Reading about Redfoots, I realised Florida was quite close to the natural habitat. I am just 1 mile away from the sea turtle nests and I see tortoises in the wild roaming the parks and the street once in a while. So, while reading about heating pads, lamps and so on, I cannot help to wonder, I have sunlight 360 days out of 365 and for most of the day, if the enclosure is outside in the balcony, do I need lamps?...

I will try to post pictures , I am really new at this.
 

DutchieAmanda

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If your redfoot gets direct sunlight (so not behind glass or screens, because they filter out UVB) almost everyday then you do not need a UVB light.
Humidity also doesn't seem to be a problem, so that's great! Wish I lived in such a climate!
The temperature you would have to check. If outside air temp is 70, it might be colder (or hotter, depending on sunshine, placement etc) at tort level. And cold and humidity combined is very unhealthy. I'd therefore still recommend a CHE heat lamp to keep up the temps on colder nights. If you also use a thermostate it won't overheat.
Good luck and enjoy your new friend!
 

Tidgy's Dad

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If you are on a PC click on the UPLOAD A FILE button next to the green POST REPLY one, this should give you access to your photos.
 

ZEROPILOT

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Alexander. I also live in S./E Florida. And you are correct. It is nearly ideal here for a Redfoot. Too bad the pet shop seems to have sold you a pile of garbage.
Redfoot are a forest floor/jungle tortoise.
They require humidity of at least 80% and heat of between 80 and 90.
You also need a UVB source.
No bright lights and no high heat.
Ideally you want to set up an outdoor area to take advantage of our weather.
If he goes out on a balcony, provide shade AT ALL TIMES.
 
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QUOTE="ZEROPILOT, post: 1456221, member: 42088"]Alexander. I also live in S./E Florida. And you are correct. It is nearly ideal here for a Redfoot. Too bad the pet shop seems to have sold you a pile of garbage.
Redfoot are a forest floor/jungle tortoise.
They require humidity of at least 80% and heat of between 80 and 90.
You also need a UVB source.
No bright lights a no high heat.
Ideally you want to set up an outdoor area to take advantage of our weather.
If he goes out on a balcony, provide shade AT ALL TIMES.[/QUOTE]
 

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:tort: Hello All,

Thank you for your replies.

I have tried to upload some images of Alexander the Turtle and his enclosure. Today is our 4th day. And he was really happy, ( well, I don't know if happy but at least much more active, walking around the balcony in the morning.
He was never alone in the balcony.

The enclosure is an "emergency" enclosure for now. I am looking for a bigger box, but at least what he has is much bigger than what the pet store sold me.

I do not know why but whenever he is in the enclosure and there is light either natural or artificial , he hides under the log and he could spend there hours at the time.

So, I am wondering what is the point to put the UVB light if he is under the log anyway.

My balcony is really big, and I can dedicate at least a third to Alexander, but being that in Florida we have huricane season, I must come out with an indoors option as well.

I would like to get some aloe vera plants that are easy to care and I think are edible for red-foots and make them part of his environment.

Question : When he spends so much time under the log, should I leave him there or should I get him out of there after some time?

Thanks
 

ZEROPILOT

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I see the photos.
First of all, young tortoises or any tortoise that has new surroundings will hide a lot.
In nature, they taste delicious! Hide or be eaten.
It's also 100% normal for any Redfoot to stay tucked away during the afternoon.
Mine all live outside and come out in the early morning. Then hide until late afternoon. They dislike bright lights and even if they do come out for a quick swim or for a bite to eat, they go right back into a hide again.
The UVB that they get is indirect and aided by a good and varied diet.
The photo shows a door to one of the two night boxes. But there is also a very large flower pot and a construction pipe to get inside.
I have 7 tortoises currently.

20170201_153702.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 21, 2017
Messages
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I see the photos.
First of all, young tortoises or any tortoise that has new surroundings will hide a lot.
In nature, they taste delicious! Hide or be eaten.
It's also 100% normal for any Redfoot to stay tucked away during the afternoon.
Mine all live outside and come out in the early morning. Then hide untill late afternoon. They dislike bright lights and even if they do come out for a quick swim or for a bite to eat, they go right back into a hide again.
The UVB that they get is indirect and aided by a good and varied diet.
The photo shows a door to one of the two night boxes. But there is also a very large flower pot and a construction pipe to get inside.
I have 7 tortoises currently.
I see the photos.
First of all, young tortoises or any tortoise that has new surroundings will hide a lot.
In nature, they taste delicious! Hide or be eaten.
It's also 100% normal for any Redfoot to stay tucked away during the afternoon.
Mine all live outside and come out in the early morning. Then hide untill late afternoon. They dislike bright lights and even if they do come out for a quick swim or for a bite to eat, they go right back into a hide again.
The UVB that they get is indirect and aided by a good and varied diet.
The photo shows a door to one of the two night boxes. But there is also a very large flower pot and a construction pipe to get inside.
I have 7 tortoises currently.

Hello Zeropilot,

Thank you so much for your reply.

WOW, your picture is my dream for Alexander, your enclosure is like a palace !!

I hope that as I keep on learning from people like you, I will be able to become a better owner.

What is a good varied nutrition? , this little guy only likes papaya and collard, the rest he totally ignores. In the pet store they told me to give him soaked dog food once in a while for protein, and some powder for calcium, so I am a bit lost here.

You mention about Red-foots hiding a lot, so I am assuming that I just let him be in the enclosure, take him out of it in the morning for a bit of sun, exercise and food, then let him be on his own , until night time that I will bring him in for the night until night temperatures go higher a bit.

Do you think I should worry about predators if I live him in the balcony?

Thanks,
 

Redstrike

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The feeding has to be tough love. If you cave and only give Alexander what he likes, he'll not eat all the other excellent food items you provide. They're like little kids, they try to train you. S/he can go a couple days without eating, hold out and you'll be surprised what Alexander starts wolfing down.

I second what Zeropilot is saying for hides. The more hides, the better. I use plant pots placed on their side and fully buried in the substrate. I like this because it allows them to climb on top so they lose less navigable space.

Last thing I would recommend is a glazed porcelain/ceramic plant saucer for a water dish. It's easy to get in/out of. Good to have access to water while s/he is outside. So long as temps are in the 80's, you should be okay leaving Alexander outside.

As for predators on the balcony, the only thing I can think of would be avian. Crested caracara (depending on where you are in FL), crows, ravens, vultures, hawks, etc. It seems unlikely but it is possible. You could cover the bin to keep birds out but with it being clear, you run the risk of making an outdoor solar oven. Just some thoughts.
 
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Pearly

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The feeding has to be tough love. If you cave and only give Alexander what he likes, he'll not eat all the other excellent food items you provide. They're like little kids, they try to train you. S/he can go a couple days without eating, hold out and you'll be surprised what Alexander starts wolfing down.

I second what Zeropilot is saying for hides. The more hides, the better. I use plant pots placed on their side and fully buried in the substrate. I like this because it allows them to climb on top so they lose less navigable space.

Last thing I would recommend is a glazed porcelain/ceramic plant saucer for a water dish. It's easy to get in/out of. Good to have access to water while s/he is outside. So long as temps are in the 80's, you should be okay leaving Alexander outside.

As for predators on the balcony, the only thing I can think of would be avian. Crested caracara (depending on where you are in FL), crows, ravens, vultures, hawks, etc. It seems unlikely but it is possible. You could cover the bin to keep birds out but with it being clear, you run the risk of making an outdoor solar oven. Just some thoughts.
Can use chicken wire type screen
 
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