Good Eggzample

N2TORTS · May 27, 2015

I often read "are these eggs any good"? Well I put together a little pictorial of some eggs at different stages just to show some "signs" of what I look for from my own experience .....I'm sure folks have different experiences from medium types to temps , times , humidity and a whole lot more....
"Let's say All' Natural"<~~~ya gotta roll yer tongue

Here is a nice 6 egg clutch ready to hatch - and ALL look very viable and should hatch out.

Now these two ....going to be duds. Notice the darkened area around the bottom of the eggs?

Here is an Egg that was retained to long within the females reproductive system thus being "over calcified" aka "Lemon Egg"

One of my females lays these trippy eggs (and borrowing the term from a forum member - as I just love the name - Thank you Allegra

)
Freshly laid "Wonky Eggs"

Yea and Nay ....
The egg on the left will be good ...the one on the right a dud

The first pip and breath of O2 ...and so amazing as the shape is just like the "beaks" shape.

Bingo!

JD~

Tidgy's Dad · May 29, 2015

Very informative.
Thanks for posting

bouaboua · May 29, 2015

It's a full house for sure....

wellington · May 29, 2015

Interesting. Love this place, always stuff to learn, thanks

kathyth · May 29, 2015

That was one hell of a tour! I love it! I guess you learn everything that could possibly happen to an egg, when you breed. Very cool, Jeff!

mtdavis254817 · May 29, 2015

Thank you so much. That is very insightful

Anyfoot · May 31, 2015

Excellent info Jeff.
What temperature do you choose to incubate at?

Jacqui · May 31, 2015

Thank you for showing some great examples.

JaymeR · Jul 3, 2015

How many weeks can you tell if they are good or bad? We have 6 eggs, a little over 2 weeks. Just wondering if we can tell yet or if it takes longer? I candles them and I can see a small yolk at top and a darker color on bottom. You mentioned your bad eggs were darker on bottom? Thanks for any info!!!!

N2TORTS · Jul 4, 2015

I actually don't candle my eggs ....after seeing hundreds of eggs , ya sorta get a "feel" for it . Although there is always that "one" you thought was a dud but actually hatches out. Before I toss any eggs I think are bad let's say a 50/50 ...I will separate, mark them and put into a different tray. The reason you may ask? If you have never had the pleasure of smelling a tort egg "gone bad" or one that actually blows up you'll know why . The smell is beyond horrific and makes a mess if they "blow" , thus a chance of contaminating the other eggs still cooking n the bator'. That said ...another "test" to see if your eggs are viable is your good ol' sniffer. I would say within a few weeks in the incubator you can spot or shall I say ...."smell" a bad egg. Another thing I do is towards expected hatch times I gently lift the egg and can feel the weight of it and tell if its bogus. Getting your first ....and even your 1000th egg is always *eggciting* but the golden rule is try not to mess with them too much ....that includes candling (as I'm sure the light does not do the embryo all that well) Keep your temps/ stable humidity for that species met and try not to get the eggs wet (until you see a pip - as I will small spray those eggs that are piping to help aid in the "break out".)
The darker eggs I have mentioned is when is when no fertilization took place , and the fluids within the egg settle to the bottom and start to rot.
"Happy Hatching"

N2TORTS · Jul 4, 2015

Anyfoot said:
Excellent info Jeff.
What temperature do you choose to incubate at?

I usually run 3 temps ..... 82 - 84 - 86 Fahrenheit

For the Reds ~n~ Cherries

Killerrookie · Jul 4, 2015

Jeff where do you keep all the hatchlings at?

Anyfoot · Jul 4, 2015

N2TORTS said:
I actually don't candle my eggs ....after seeing hundreds of eggs , ya sorta get a "feel" for it . Although there is always that "one" you thought was a dud but actually hatches out. Before I toss any eggs I think are bad let's say a 50/50 ...I will separate, mark them and put into a different tray. The reason you may ask? If you have never had the pleasure of smelling a tort egg "gone bad" or one that actually blows up you'll know why . The smell is beyond horrific and makes a mess if they "blow" , thus a chance of contaminating the other eggs still cooking n the bator'. That said ...another "test" to see if your eggs are viable is your good ol' sniffer. I would say within a few weeks in the incubator you can spot or shall I say ...."smell" a bad egg. Another thing I do is towards expected hatch times I gently lift the egg and can feel the weight of it and tell if its bogus. Getting your first ....and even your 1000th egg is always *eggciting* but the golden rule is try not to mess with them too much ....that includes candling (as I'm sure the light does not do the embryo all that well) Keep your temps/ stable humidity for that species met and try not to get the eggs wet (until you see a pip - as I will small spray those eggs that are piping to help aid in the "break out".)
The darker eggs I have mentioned is when is when no fertilization took place , and the fluids within the egg settle to the bottom and start to rot.
"Happy Hatching"

Interesting. You spray the eggs as they pip out. Never new that. Cheers.

Anyfoot · Jul 4, 2015

N2TORTS said:
I usually run 3 temps ..... 82 - 84 - 86 Fahrenheit
For the Reds ~n~ Cherries

So, when you neonate is out of the egg. What eggsactly do you do with them for the 1st 2 wks of there life.

JaymeR · Jul 4, 2015

N2TORTS said:
I actually don't candle my eggs ....after seeing hundreds of eggs , ya sorta get a "feel" for it . Although there is always that "one" you thought was a dud but actually hatches out. Before I toss any eggs I think are bad let's say a 50/50 ...I will separate, mark them and put into a different tray. The reason you may ask? If you have never had the pleasure of smelling a tort egg "gone bad" or one that actually blows up you'll know why . The smell is beyond horrific and makes a mess if they "blow" , thus a chance of contaminating the other eggs still cooking n the bator'. That said ...another "test" to see if your eggs are viable is your good ol' sniffer. I would say within a few weeks in the incubator you can spot or shall I say ...."smell" a bad egg. Another thing I do is towards expected hatch times I gently lift the egg and can feel the weight of it and tell if its bogus. Getting your first ....and even your 1000th egg is always *eggciting* but the golden rule is try not to mess with them too much ....that includes candling (as I'm sure the light does not do the embryo all that well) Keep your temps/ stable humidity for that species met and try not to get the eggs wet (until you see a pip - as I will small spray those eggs that are piping to help aid in the "break out".)
The darker eggs I have mentioned is when is when no fertilization took place , and the fluids within the egg settle to the bottom and start to rot.
"Happy Hatching"

Thank you so much for replying! The reason we are not sure if they are fertilized is because our large female laid the eggs but our other two are still young and we are not even sure if one is a male yet. They are 7 & 9 years so we have no idea if they can even fertilize yet. I guess time will tell! Thanks again

N2TORTS · Jul 4, 2015

Anyfoot said:
So, when you neonate is out of the egg. What eggsactly do you do with them for the 1st 2 wks of there life.

After the initial pip...until just about out of the egg .....I will move the egg to a different shelf/container within the incubator that is prepped with green moss. This done for allowing the egg sac to absorb and heal nicely... also without the worries of the neo-nates eating any of the medium ( I use a vermiculite/perlite mix). Also if all the way out of the egg....you can make a "dimple" within the moss and set your new hatchling within that spot .....the "dimple" will allow it to sit on all fours without putting any pressure on the healing yolk sac. Sprayed heavy with H2o and another layer of moss on top. The moss works very well at retaining moister as well as making the new little one feel "safe" as well as keeping the temps it's accustomed too in it's first few days of life. Typically the sac takes about a week to heal and then the new hatchlings are moved into a "general" nursery within my office. Nothing fancy , but very well controlled.

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Anyfoot · Jul 4, 2015

N2TORTS said:
After the initial pip...until just about out of the egg .....I will move the egg to a different shelf/container within the incubator that is prepped with green moss. This done for allowing the egg sac to absorb and heal nicely... also without the worries of the neo-nates eating any of the medium ( I use a vermiculite/perlite mix). Also if all the way out of the egg....you can make a "dimple" within the moss and set your new hatchling within that spot .....the "dimple" will allow it to sit on all fours without putting any pressure on the healing yolk sac. Sprayed heavy with H2o and another layer of moss on top. The moss works very well at retaining moister as well as making the new little one feel "safe" as well as keeping the temps it's accustomed too in it's first few days of life. Typically the sac takes about a week to heal and then the new hatchlings are moved into a "general" nursery within my office. Nothing fancy , but very well controlled.

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Omg. Thanks for that. Everyone wants to go to Florida for Disney Land. Not me. Florida for Jeff's place. Lol. Very interesting.

N2TORTS · Jul 4, 2015

Head West my friend .....

We have the Cove' and Disneyland ....

all in a nutshell.......

Good Eggzample

N2TORTS

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Tidgy's Dad

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bouaboua

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wellington

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kathyth

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mtdavis254817

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Anyfoot

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Jacqui

Wanna be raiser of Lemon Drop tortoises

JaymeR

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N2TORTS

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N2TORTS

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Killerrookie

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Anyfoot

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Anyfoot

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JaymeR

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N2TORTS

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Anyfoot

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N2TORTS

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